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Ridgerunner3 · 06-29-2013, 04:40 PM

The hitch box on a 2500 Ram must be much higher than the new GM 2500 4X4 hitch box. My hitch is showing three holes above the stinger. You are showing zero

SteveSueMac · 06-29-2013, 04:50 PM

My Chevy 2500 had 2 holes over the top of the receiver but I had to bring it down one hole as my trailer nose was 1.5" higher than the trailer rear. Dropping it that one hole got all 4 corners level at 16".

You might be able to put the WD bars in to the TOP hole (not middle as you have it now) but 1) I can't swear that would work and 2) that might require more hight on the WD jacks to distribute the weight.

Call Sean for sure...

m.hony · 06-29-2013, 05:01 PM

How much does it cost? How much does a Hensley Arrow cost? I'm interested.

Pahaska · 06-29-2013, 05:13 PM

To eliminate the unhitching "clunk", I find that regardless of day or night, I just put my fingertips on the hitch body with the hitch cup rim against my fingers and slowly raise the jack. I can easily feel the motion when the ball moves in the hitch cup. I came up with this modus operundi when unhitching one dark night and use it all the time now.

kry226 · 06-29-2013, 06:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ridgerunner3

The hitch box on a 2500 Ram must be much higher than the new GM 2500 4X4 hitch box. My hitch is showing three holes above the stinger. You are showing zero

To be fair, I am running 285/75-17E tires too. That does create a little more height to deal with.

I think I'll email these pics to Sean and see what he says. Thanks to all, but if there are other opinions out there, I am all ears.

kry226 · 06-30-2013, 04:04 AM

Email sent to Sean and returned already (that was quick, on a Saturday night too).

He said that nothing looked wrong, but if the trailer was nose-high, I needed the longer drop stinger, and he offered to swap out the OE one for the longer drop. I humbly accepted!

More to follow.

SteveSueMac · 06-30-2013, 06:46 AM

That's pretty darn great!!

lsbrodsky · 06-30-2013, 06:52 AM

If all tech support in America were like Sean's, the Chinese would not have a chance....
Larry

Zigidachs · 06-30-2013, 07:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lsbrodsky

if all tech support in america were like sean's, the chinese would not have a chance....
Larry

You've got that right!

chracatoa · 07-23-2013, 04:00 PM

Hello all,

I never posted here before because I'm not an airstream owner but I have always followed this thread since I decided to buy a Propride hitch last year - it's one of the best. Well, it's hard to find PP owners so I hope you guys don't mind if I post.

I have a couple of questions, please bear with me.

What should I be doing to maintain the hitch? Currently I'm using the grease gun every 500 miles. What else?

I noticed rust on the inside of the jacks and in other areas (I live in the Northwest). I'm thinking in using WD40 or similar. I also had to re-center the yoke after I took it to the dealer.

Should I grease the trailer's hitch head? It was hard work (for me) to assemble it and I'm weary of having to redo it correctly just to add grease.

Finally, I just moved the stinger one hole down. Does it affect how I do the weight distribution on the jacks? I had them at 5.75" before.

Thanks!

(PS.: I have a video of my Propride

here. Breaks and weight distribution were not yet dialed up when I made it but I still think it's nice)

TinShack · 07-23-2013, 08:24 PM

Thanks for the video. It's really cool to see how these hitches work! I have a Hensley, similar, but different. After 7 years I pulled the hitch to sandblast and repaint the hitch and A-frame and was surprised to see the hitch ball was still lubed well. My maintenance on the Hensley, besides the 500 miles lube, consisted of paint retouching and using a spray lube such as white lithium grease on the other moving parts.
Besides Hensley's atrocious paint job, one trip on a freshly chip sealed road in Idaho about 3 years ago is what really started my rust problems to cause the hitch repaint. Every one of those little dings in the paint started the rust issues. I wasn't very good about dealing with it at the time so it perpetuated into a total repaint. Some rock tamers on my TV would have postponed this chore, but now that it's done, it looks great!

chracatoa · 07-25-2013, 02:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CA Streamer

My maintenance on the Hensley, besides the 500 miles lube, consisted of paint retouching and using a spray lube such as white lithium grease on the other moving parts.

Yeah, it's not that bad now but I don't want to make it worst. I'll see if I take a picture sometime this weekend for our next trip and post it here.

We're going to do a long trip to Utah, Idaho, Montana in August. That will be our longest trip ever (so far we have been doing 2-5 hours trips).

chracatoa · 07-25-2013, 04:08 PM

I have some pics here.

TinShack · 07-25-2013, 09:37 PM

I'm not sure what the first pic is showing. It looks like the plate that attaches the spring bar adjusters to the frame. If that's the case it may be better to touch it up with some primer and paint after a light sanding. Rust doesn't look bad yet.

The second pic shows the rub spot from adjusting the tension on the spring bar. Mine does this too, and I haven't found a solution to it. Since my recent repaint, it is already scraping down to bare metal. WD-40 of White Lithium grease will keep it from rusting.

Love your sons lego rig. It has a slideout like my Airstream! Here's a pic of my recent hitch/a-frame after the redo...

SteveSueMac · 07-26-2013, 04:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CA Streamer

Here's a pic of my recent hitch/a-frame after the redo...

Looks like Mongo de-oranged a Hensley! :-) Love it!! That looks very cool!!

kry226 · 07-28-2013, 01:36 PM

Got the longer drop stinger installed, rivet with all four washers. Front fenders are back to original height, but rear sits about 3/4 to 1" lower. Trailer sits about 1/2"higher in front, almost perfect. I think I'll be good to go after a trip to the scales for front axle weight distribution confirmation, and maybe a few more cranks (WD jacks are at 6.5" now). Here are some pics. See anything odd or unusual with set-up?

Ag&Au · 07-28-2013, 03:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kry226

Got the longer drop stinger installed, rivet with all four washers. Front fenders are back to original height, but rear sits about 3/4 to 1" lower. Trailer sits about 1/2"higher in front, almost perfect. I think I'll be good to go after a trip to the scales for front axle weight distribution confirmation, and maybe a few more cranks (WD jacks are at 6.5" now). Here are some pics. See anything odd or unusual with set-up?

Are you sure you didn't drive off with my TV and trailer.

kry226 · 07-28-2013, 07:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ag&Au

Are you sure you didn't drive off with my TV and trailer.

Wow!

Ag&Au · 07-28-2013, 07:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kary

Wow!

To be fair, since that picture was taken, the tonneau has been replaced with a Leer canopy. This allows the bikes to travel inside, while the boats are now on top of the canopy. The weight of the boats on the truck roof caused some oil canning on the roof on a rough road. Luckily, when the weight was off all returned to normal contour. However we decided against subjecting the roof to that weight again.

Ken

PS: The truck is a 2003 and the trailer a 2010 31. I do see difference in the window configuration. The hitch is a ProPride.

slowmover · 08-05-2013, 08:44 AM

Are you all still using the OEM hitch (welded, factory, or dealer, bolt-on)?

I replaced the dealer-installed on mine, found it couldn't do the job (had loosened) and part of my problem in "transferring weight". Check yours. All trailer hitches place a lot of stress on the receiver, our hitch kind maybe more so.

I installed a cheap interim hitch receiver, but recommend the full crossmember replacement DRAW TITE 45299 (if yours is also a 3/4 or 1T truck). Note attachment points, top & sides.

Titan Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class V - 2-1/2" Reese Trailer Hitch 45299