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Old 07-09-2015, 09:06 AM   #29
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When I bought this used trailer and picked it up at the dealer I had a Sherline scale and weighed it during our walk through while they were installing the Equalizer and saw it was about 1100lbs weighed at the jack. Trailer was empty. Looks like AS built this one heavy. I was a little surprised after seeing the specs on this trailer at the Airsteam site show only 8xx lbs, even stating that was with full propane tanks.

So far we haven't had the need to store anything under the front queen and if we do it will be just extra clothes

We are considering having our queen bed area modified to twin beds. I'm wondering if this will increase the hitch weight? I could, during that conversion, replace the batteries with AGMs and move them further back under the curb twin bed next to the converter.

With the Propride system weighing about 200lbs doesn't that increase the tongue weight another 200lbs?

Kelvin
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Old 07-09-2015, 09:15 AM   #30
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Kelvin,

It will increase your TW.

In our case our TW is 1200lbs, our hitch weight,(with wd set), is 840lbs.

Bob
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Old 07-09-2015, 09:17 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by KJRitchie View Post
With the Propride system weighing about 200lbs doesn't that increase the tongue weight another 200lbs?

Kelvin
Yes it does, and also by weighing the tongue at the jack, rather than at the ball, the weight will be a little heavier because of the shorter fulcrum effect, and maybe by about 100 lbs.
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Old 07-09-2015, 12:00 PM   #32
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With the ProPride or the Hensley, I would highly recommend that you do the installation yourself. Most dealers don't know what they are doing...
The dealers want to install the hitches they stock, as there is more profit in it for them as well as efficiency due to familiarity.

I had the same problem with a poor (and expensive) dealer installation/setup of my ProPride. Since it was my first trailer, I didn't have any context in which to point it out to them until I was well on the road.

I asked if I could do the install myself but was rebuffed due to insurance reasons.


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Old 07-09-2015, 12:05 PM   #33
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A few comments from a ProPride user. The hitch really does prevent trailer sway and eliminates white-knuckle moments when you get passed by a semi going 10+ mph faster than you in the next lane. Since you connect the trailer by inserting a square in cross-section "stinger" into a box shaped receiver, hitching and unhitching are different from using a ball-type hitch. First there is a fairly narrow angle off straight ahead within which you can hitch or unhitching. So, if you are in a fairly short, curved "pull-through" site (as we were once) you may not be able to disconnect without having one of the tension bars block the foot of the trailer hitch jack from descending. (At the same time, if you do manage to disconnect, you may not be able to position the stinger to go into the receiver.) Likewise, if the trailer and truck are not in the same plane (I.e. "Twisted" a bit) you will have a hard time reconnecting. That said, with a backup camera, hitching up is a one person job, even for a beginner. The key is to match the height of the receiver with the height of the stinger and adjust the receiver laterally so the stinger can go straight in. Also, make note of the height of the receiver above the ground when it matches the stinger's height. When unhitching, first release all of the tension on the WD bars, so they just flop around. Then, extend the trailer hitch jack until the receiver is the height above the ground that you measured in the previous step. This unloads the TV suspension so you can drive right out after you disconnect the clamps. This hitch is certainly expensive, but it does what it claims. Don't be discouraged by stories of difficulty hitching up. As newbies to this whole business, my wife and I have both hitched up on the first try. The only apparent downside to this hitch as compared to a ball hitch is a narrower angle of acceptance from center.
I agree with those comments as a "PP cousin" user with a Hensley Cub, & would add that you also need to be mindful of the 3-axis angles of the receiver box when on even ground, cuz it may go in, but not far enough to lock it up!

I chose the Cub instead after looking at PP & Arrow because:

A - we have a light Avion T20 (single axle 3-3500# wet/loaded & 340# HW incl. Cub+stinger on Sherline at the stinger TV end), so the Cub at $1500+/- was several $100s less (PP is less than Arrow)

B - we have a short A-frame (30") with lotsa stuff & the underside yoke would've also been a complication to install, but I did like that PP didn't require screwing mounting plates into the A-frame, as do the Hensleys.

Both PP & Hensley are PPP hitches & do their job exceedingly well - killing all sway & great WD - which is very easy & infinitely adjustable in a minute with the winder-jack instead of chains, no greasy head & tension bars to remove & store, relatively easy to use - even for a novice, 1-person hitching with a rear cam or even with the "little yellow balls on aerials", & are well worth the extra money - they're cheap insurance for a very expensive AS/kin trailer plus many other ease of use & storage benefits IMHO!

I just love it though when a non PP/Hensley use tries to "help" you back in, thinking it's a ball & coupler! .... they just don't get the angle of approach bit!

Cheers!
Tom
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Old 07-09-2015, 12:07 PM   #34
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Well I like my Hensley I like the idea of a solid stinger not a bolt together stinger, throw Propride or Hensley up in the air there is no comparison to any of the friction type sway control hitches except they are cheaper..

cheaper doesn't mean better

you spend a ton of money or a AS and a TV what is 2-3 thousand to hitch with the best and have drama free driving

Spend your kids inheritance

earl
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Old 07-09-2015, 12:31 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by greghoro View Post
The dealers want to install the hitches they stock, as there is more profit in it for them as well as efficiency due to familiarity.

I had the same problem with a poor (and expensive) dealer installation/setup of my ProPride. Since it was my first trailer, I didn't have any context in which to point it out to them until I was well on the road.

I asked if I could do the install myself but was rebuffed due to insurance reasons.


Greg

I installed my own Hensley Arrow on two new Airstreams in the Airstream dealer parking lot. Neither dealer gave me ant grief about it. I just told them that I was going to do it.

Brian
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Old 07-09-2015, 12:49 PM   #36
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You will love either the Hensley or the ProPride when on the road, the towing principle is the same. You may even be astonished by the lack of drama and neutral truck/trailer behavior as I was coming from a conventional w.d./sway control hitch.
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Old 07-09-2015, 01:32 PM   #37
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OP's experience is pretty much what I have learned with my Hensley in one summer. I had a terrible time lining up but finally discovered you don't have to be perfect (as directed by PO) since the cams can pull it all together. I spent nearly 30 minutes one day just trying to get the stinger fully inserted. I also used to measure the height on disconnect. Helpful but not really necessary... just use the jack to get it close...may be a little bit low on the stinger since the hitch droops when not hooked up. I also pull ahead a bit to pull the cams out straight before disconnecting.

Thanks Doug for the point about twisting the head with the screws; I hadn't figured that one out yet! Your comments mirror my (limited) experience. You need to work with it for a while and like a lot of others I was ready to ditch the monster till I discovered the 'pull in' with the cams; just need to get close so they will engage.

I also disagree with limited turning radius. The truck can cut a bit tighter with the Hensley. I do find the trailer tracks a bit tighter inside on turns but that could be the extra length due to the Hensley and the '96 is wider than our previous '89.
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Old 07-09-2015, 01:42 PM   #38
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I have seen one broken weld. It was at the head where the alignment bar connects. Owner (with a brand new AS and first time pulling anything) had backed in way too far out of line. A local welder fixed it up and they were on their way next day.
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Old 07-09-2015, 01:51 PM   #39
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I came from a fifth wheel to P3. At the time I wanted to avoid all the issues and horror stories I had heard about traditional trailer towing. I am confident that I made the right decision regarding hitch and tow vehicle.
I found that after reading, studying and interviewing owners, the decision will still come down to you. It's like chocolate or vanilla, beer or wine, Ford or Ram. Everyone has strong opinions and rightfully so, but in the end, you must feel comfortable with your choice.
Enjoy the discussion and glean what you can.

Best of luck.
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Old 07-09-2015, 01:57 PM   #40
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Inside storage

I store my 31 Classic inside a building. Part of the deal is the storage manager needs to move my trailer after i drop it off. How can that be done with a PP or Hensley hitch that uses the coupler full time?
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Old 07-09-2015, 02:09 PM   #41
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I store my 31 Classic inside a building. Part of the deal is the storage manager needs to move my trailer after i drop it off. How can that be done with a PP or Hensley hitch that uses the coupler full time?
I would purchase a separate stinger, not the entire head. Then have a proper class hitch welded to the end which sticks out when stinger locked in place. This way they can "hitch and move" to their contentment.
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Old 07-09-2015, 02:13 PM   #42
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When un-hitching a Hensley or ProPride, lower the jack(s) until they move freely, raise the trailer with tongue jack until you see the whole assembly move freely, then pull the hitch pin out and drive off. You should have already placed chocks ahead and behind the wheels on both sides of the trailer.
When hitching, place the stinger into the receiver, put the pin in, get the stinger and the hitch head socket on the same pitch, roll, and Yaw axis, back up and it will go right in for latching.
On installations, you can do all the lifting with a light weight floor jack and hole drilling with a hand drill. I have installed mine one two different trailers. If you are not able to install your own, most Airstream dealers and repair stations can do it for you. On failures and worn parts, all thing eventually wear out or fail. Both companies are good about replacing components on a lifetime basis. I have had replacement parts from ProPride and Hensley including a whole hitch from the latter. The only costs are usually shipping.
Happy hitching and un-hitching.
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