ProPride 3P & Hensley Arrow Experts

[baby]

Just wanted to ask the ProPride and Hensley experts out there for a little help in learning how to use these awesome hitches! Installed a ProPride 3P last Saturday and on the 80 mile trip home did pretty well. It does feel different in what I am use to, just need to use it more, which I am this Saturday. I did experence the "Hensley Bump". I read that this is caused by the TV slowing down faster than the TT and the links slam to one side. I have read that others have experienced this and they all say " I adjusted my brake controller and the problem went away" I would like to know what they mean by adjust? I have the Prodigy P3 and I already have it on Boost 3 because my TT is about 2k lbs heavier than my Nissan Titan. I've read where people adjust it down to Boost 2, but would that really help?
Also would like to know how long it takes to get use to the TT tracking tighter to the inside of turns? Did not really notice this until I turned into my drive way which is a 90 degree turn off a state hwy. Thought I had turned wide enough but all of a sudden the wife about releaved her self when she thought the TT was going to turn over. I don't have a drive way pipe and the TT turned tighter than I thought and it slightly went down a small hill beside the drive way. All was well and it came right out, but let's just say I added many large rocks for a foundation and put down 2 tons of gravel yesterday so that can't happen again. Sorry for the long post, just would love to hear from someone who has been towing with one of these hitches for a while and any help would be greatly appreciated!

[dkottum]

We have never had a Hensley bump. I know of two adjustments to help.

Set the brake controller not by number, but by feel. I like to start out each day with a fresh adjustment. Starting out with engine barely above idle so the truck/trailer is just moving (on level ground) set the controller so squeezing the controller lever slows the rig to near a stop, maybe a little more. At the next stop for fuel or whatever, set it again as things can change when the brakes are warmed up.

When adjusting the hitch, put enough washers in the head tilt rivet so after w.d. is set, the bars should still be tilted down toward the back. This will resist the hitch moving forward on its own, causing a Hensley bump, as well as improve stability in turns. This tip comes from Andrew Thomson at Can-Am RV in Ontario. When they are not able to get enough downward tilt on the bars by adding washers, they will put a bend in the Hensley/ProPride stinger to accomplish it.

[J. Morgan]

I like my trailer brakes set just a bit short of locking up.

If they are set that way you will never get "the bump".




Superat stultitia.

[rmkrum]

Raise the number on the dial. a couple higher. The boost controls how fast the voltage rises when you hit the brake pedal. The number controls how hard it stays on.


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[Ted S.]

Does the Propride get the bump same as the Hensley? I have had a hard bump during heavy breaking, but I thought it was from my truck downshifting hard in tow mode.

[Ohiobrits]

baby,

On the brake controller, try the following. May sound strange but this is from Andy T at CanAm and is how he sets up the vast majority of his AS's. Its also the setting I have used myself for the last 12 months or so with my P3.

Set the gain to max. Boost to off.

Max gain ensures that the maximum braking force of the AS brakes are available if needed. You modulate the braking of the TV and AS using the brakes in the TV - same as you do every day driving down the road in your TV.

My personal preference is to use Boost 1 on the freeway - ensures the AS is taking its fair share of braking duties with a light push on the TV brakes. At low speeds I switch all boost off. This ensures smooth progress rolling around the campsite or town without the AS brakes grabbing. For the record my TV is about 6200 lbs loaded for camping and my AS pretty close to the max at around 7500 lbs. I do not have any bump with this setup even without boost at lower speeds.

On the tighter turns I have not really noticed any difference.

Stick with the PP. Whatever learning curve you have will be very much worthwhile.

[baby]

Originally Posted by Ohiobrits

baby,

On the brake controller, try the following. May sound strange but this is from Andy T at CanAm and is how he sets up the vast majority of his AS's. Its also the setting I have used myself for the last 12 months or so with my P3.

Set the gain to max. Boost to off.

Max gain ensures that the maximum braking force of the AS brakes are available if needed. You modulate the braking of the TV and AS using the brakes in the TV - same as you do every day driving down the road in your TV.

My personal preference is to use Boost 1 on the freeway - ensures the AS is taking its fair share of braking duties with a light push on the TV brakes. At low speeds I switch all boost off. This ensures smooth progress rolling around the campsite or town without the AS brakes grabbing. For the record my TV is about 6200 lbs loaded for camping and my AS pretty close to the max at around 7500 lbs. I do not have any bump with this setup even without boost at lower speeds.

On the tighter turns I have not really noticed any difference.

Stick with the PP. Whatever learning curve you have will be very much worthwhile.

when you say "gain" do you mean the power buttons to max?

[baby]

Originally Posted by dkottum

We have never had a Hensley bump. I know of two adjustments to help.

Set the brake controller not by number, but by feel. I like to start out each day with a fresh adjustment. Starting out with engine barely above idle so the truck/trailer is just moving (on level ground) set the controller so squeezing the controller lever slows the rig to near a stop, maybe a little more. At the next stop for fuel or whatever, set it again as things can change when the brakes are warmed up.

When adjusting the hitch, put enough washers in the head tilt rivet so after w.d. is set, the bars should still be tilted down toward the back. This will resist the hitch moving forward on its own, causing a Hensley bump, as well as improve stability in turns. This tip comes from Andrew Thomson at Can-Am RV in Ontario. When they are not able to get enough downward tilt on the bars by adding washers, they will put a bend in the Hensley/ProPride stinger to accomplish it.

So you are saying adjust the washers so the stinger will be tilting slightly down?

[dkottum]

Originally Posted by baby

So you are saying adjust the washers so the stinger will be tilting slightly down?

Yes.

[Ohiobrits]

Originally Posted by baby

when you say "gain" do you mean the power buttons to max?

Yes, sorry, the power button. It goes from 0 to 15. Button A in the manual.

by the way - dkottum's advice on the washers is spot on - I squeezed 6 in there. Allows you to get some solid weight transfer as you apply WD.

[bono]

Just started assembling the stinger. With the loose bolts the angle of the stinger is like this. There is a space for probably 2 additional washers on the tilt pin. However, wouldn't be this angle too much down?





Two washers on the tilt pin would give me the stinger leveled (and this is what the ProPride manual suggests). Four washers would give me a slight tilt down. However, I am worrying that the stinger would be tilting down due to the down force / tongue weight. I understand that the bolts needs to be torqued down pretty tight, but would this prevent tilting down?

[rmkrum]

Once I established the required angle and torqued the bolts to specifications, no movement, over at least 6,000 miles of fairly rough highway towing.

Don't trust my memory, but I think this is where I used the 250 foot-pound torque wrench from Harbor Freight and all my weight on the handle to click it to full torque. I was careful to have clean mating surfaces and bolts to get the right reading.

That was really the hardest part of my install.


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[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by bono

Just started assembling the stinger. With the loose bolts the angle of the stinger is like this. There is a space for probably 2 additional washers on the tilt pin. However, wouldn't be this angle too much down?





Two washers on the tilt pin would give me the stinger leveled (and this is what the ProPride manual suggests). Four washers would give me a slight tilt down. However, I am worrying that the stinger would be tilting down due to the down force / tongue weight. I understand that the bolts needs to be torqued down pretty tight, but would this prevent tilting down?

Perhaps, but it depends on how much receiver slop has to be taken up when WD is applied. You will have to experiment with that. There should be a slight to moderate downward tilt AFTER WD is applied. Also as miles accumulate on the hitch, you will find some mushrooming of the washer pin and its corresponding contact point on the hitch bar, necessitating adding a washer. I have to used all the washers that will fit and it is a tight operation to get the bolts in with my stack. But it's just right after all has worn in.

[bono]

Thanks Guys! Sean kindly confirmed that with my setup (SUV / large trailer) I should use as many washers on the tilt pin as possible. So this stinger angle should work.

thanks!

[baby]

Just wanted to say thank you to everyone for the advice on the Hensley bump. On our first trip I adjusted the brake controller and felt no bump during the 300 mile round trip with a combination of highway and 2 lane road driving. Another couple of questions if I may. I was getting a groan sometimes in turns which concerned me because I bought the Propride hitch used. When we got to our camping spot I did notice that the hitch did not want to turn as much one direction as it did the other ( would turn easier and further to the left than to the right.) I kept moving the head by using the over center links back and forth, now it seems to turn the same amount both directions, maybe a little easier to the left but not much. What I was wondering is can you change the bearings in the Propride head? The tongue weight along with the weight of the Propride approaches my max tongue weight of 950 lbs, so my Nissan Titan really sags down, even after I adjust the weight distribution, adjusted the stinger a little higher and tilted it down slightly with the stop washers, and I also have the Roadmaster active suspension torsion springs ( which I will be putting on the classifieds today ). I have purchased some Firestone airbags that I am putting on this week, but my question is do I air up the air bags after I have adjusted the weight distribution or do I almost level the vehicle with the air bags then set the weight distribution bars?

[RinconVTR]

Originally Posted by baby

I have purchased some Firestone airbags that I am putting on this week, but my question is do I air up the air bags after I have adjusted the weight distribution or do I almost level the vehicle with the air bags then set the weight distribution bars?

To clarify a couple points first...its important to understand what air bags are for vs auto level systems. In this case, air bags are inflated to their max PSI, the load is added, then you adjust PSI if needed for ride comfort or height.

For Hensley/Propride PP hitches, its not so critical to have the vehicle level as it is other WDH systems. If you are tapped out, you likely have enough weight re-applied to the front end not to worry at all. A little rear sag is fine, but I too, would also add air bags just to level out.

You dont need to worry about the timing of when you apply tension on the bars/jacks. Just have the bags inflated to their max when hooking up and see how you come out with everything connected. If your too high in the rear, simply reduce PSI until you are content.

DO NOT reduce tension on the bars if by chance the air bags raise you too high. Good weight distribution is primary. Air bags are secondary.

[Ohiobrits]

baby,

The groaning noise you describe could be coming from a few sources (other than the bearings) - see below. If the PP was bought used it may have been sitting for a while and just need a bit of TLC. The bearings are sealed and I have not heard of anyone having to replace them over on the unofficial pp thread here http://www.airforums.com/forums/f464...ide-57179.html. A few things to try below.

1 - The WD bars should be greased via the zerk (small brass nipple, one either side of the head) about every 1000 miles. Use a grease gun and hose - the hose will connect to the zerk. Push grease in until you see a decent amount of fresh grease ooze out around the bottom of the head/WD bar housing.

2 - The ball should be greased - about once a year should do it. The head does not move too much but it gets some side to side and a bit of fore and aft movement as you drive along. See this post and further comments there - http://www.airforums.com/forums/f464...ml#post1816171

3 - The small silver "U" bolts between the WD jack vertical straps and the end of the WD bar can also make some noise, particularly in turns. As the head turns the strap is either pulled forward or pushed back. There is a huge amount of load here and if the connection is "dry" it can make some noise. A small amount of grease (or spray oil in a pinch) applied here should work. Lubricate without WD applied - work grease into the gap between the U bolt and strap by moving the strap and bar around.

4 - Last but not least, if you have quite a bit of slop between the PP stinger (vehicle side) and your receiver you may get some noises, particularly in turns at lower speeds. Some shims/oil here should solve that. See here. http://www.airforums.com/forums/f463...ml#post1673194

[ROBERT CROSS]

"I have purchased some Firestone airbags that I am putting on this week, but my question is do I air up the air bags after I have adjusted the weight distribution or do I almost level the vehicle with the air bags then set the weight distribution bars?"

Baby,

Why the bags?...they do nothing but raise the rear of the TV, they do nothing to improve towing or increase payload.

If you transfer the proper amount of weight with your WD bars your TV should be very close to level if you have the proper drop stinger to keep the trailer level.

Bob

[cjaubert]

I have to add my two cents about Sean and ProPride. I have been a businessman for over 30 years. I've signed the front of many more paychecks than the back, so I'm fairly knowledgeable about business, customer service, etc. I have to say that if Sean is not at the top of the class in terms of customer service, it sure doesn't take long to call the roll. He is responsive, helpful, clear, and, well, just the best resource one could want. His product - the ProPride - is also superb, and the combination of Sean and the product is unbeatable. I can't recommend both highly enough. Thanks Sean and ProPride - I'm grateful for all you've done for me.

[A W Warn]

Originally Posted by RinconVTR

>> snip>> For Hensley/Propride PP hitches, its not so critical to have the vehicle level as it is other WDH systems <<snip<<

I have to disagree. It is very important that the trailer is level, that the tongue neither low nor high.
If the tongue is low the front axle is carrying more weight than the rear. If the tongue is high, the rear axle is carrying more load.
Only with single axle trailers is it OK for the trailer to be slightly out of level.