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subfan1 · 01-28-2014, 05:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mcdenny

Update-I just looked at the temps after driving (not towing) for an hour, 75F ambient temp. Trans 201, engine oil 199.

Are you sure you're not confusing oil temp and coolant temp? My gauge for the oil is in pressure and it does not show oil temperature. What vehicle do you have?

ALANSD · 01-29-2014, 08:21 AM

I got a nice note from the member towing a 31 with a Volvo... She says it's been great for them

Mcdenny · 01-29-2014, 08:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by subfan1

Are you sure you're not confusing oil temp and coolant temp? My gauge for the oil is in pressure and it does not show oil temperature. What vehicle do you have?

Nope, it shows oil temp, oil pressure, trans temp, oil life, tire air pressure, alternator voltage, all on a driver selectable digital readout. It has a permanent analog coolant temp gage, like the gas gage, too.

I have a 2014 jeep but this has been standard on lots of Chrysler products for many years.

mstephens · 02-02-2014, 12:51 PM

My Chrysler 300 has hit a snag. I just can't get enough WD.

We went to the scales yesterday and out of 820# of tongue, only 140# got transferred to the front axle. Leaving 680 on the back. I test drove it briefly on the freeway and it felt light on the front and the wind was moving us around.

Today I tried adjusting the WD. First I tried getting up to the third link in the chains. Impossible. First, no way to jack the car that high. Second, I put a scissor jack under the bars and tried getting them up to the third link. Impossible, and worse yet, we created a dangerous situation with heavy parts flying. Extra links out of question. I then tilted the head back more. Ok, that again requires a higher lift of the car. We got it on the first link and I went back to the scales. That added a whoopping 60# to the front, 60# to the trailer axle, and took 120# off the back. Not nearly enough. That makes a total of 200# to the front.

How on earth can people be getting 300# or 400# of WD? By what conceivable method can the bars be lifted that high? Jacks? Winches? Cranes? Muscles? I don't get it. As it was, I nearly had the back wheels off the ground. Certainly my tongue jack is going to burn out lifting the car that high. I could almost smell the motor.

Driving home I was ready to just chuck the whole thing in, trailer and all.

SteveH · 02-02-2014, 01:22 PM

As I remember your new setup is using an Easy lift hitch? What weight bars are you using?

mstephens · 02-02-2014, 01:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SteveH

As I remember your new setup is using an Easy lift hitch? What weight bars are you using?

1000# bars.

My TW is 820# or slightly more as measured.

SteveH · 02-02-2014, 02:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mstephens

1000# bars.

My TW is 820# or slightly more as measured.

Sounds like it should work with those bars. How much weight are you trying to distribute to the front?

Maybe you should call Andy and let him help you.

ROBERTSUNRUS · 02-02-2014, 02:16 PM

Hi, don't give up yet; I'm sure there is a way to get proper WD. My tongue jack has raised my Lincoln Navigator's wheels completely off of the ground a few times. Didn't hurt a thing. I'm sure your "300" is a lot lighter.

MrUKToad · 02-02-2014, 02:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mstephens

My Chrysler 300 has hit a snag. I just can't get enough WD.

We went to the scales yesterday and out of 820# of tongue, only 140# got transferred to the front axle. Leaving 680 on the back. I test drove it briefly on the freeway and it felt light on the front and the wind was moving us around.

Today I tried adjusting the WD. First I tried getting up to the third link in the chains. Impossible. First, no way to jack the car that high. Second, I put a scissor jack under the bars and tried getting them up to the third link. Impossible, and worse yet, we created a dangerous situation with heavy parts flying. Extra links out of question. I then tilted the head back more. Ok, that again requires a higher lift of the car. We got it on the first link and I went back to the scales. That added a whoopping 60# to the front, 60# to the trailer axle, and took 120# off the back. Not nearly enough. That makes a total of 200# to the front.

How on earth can people be getting 300# or 400# of WD? By what conceivable method can the bars be lifted that high? Jacks? Winches? Cranes? Muscles? I don't get it. As it was, I nearly had the back wheels off the ground. Certainly my tongue jack is going to burn out lifting the car that high. I could almost smell the motor.

Driving home I was ready to just chuck the whole thing in, trailer and all.

For what it's worth, I have to jack the back of the Sienna up to the point at which the car's wheels are about to leave the ground. It hasn't harmed the jack over the past three seasons (yet) and my good friends at Can Am tell me it's all perfectly normal. The fuse went once, early on, but hasn't since.

Road Ruler · 02-02-2014, 02:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mstephens

My Chrysler 300 has hit a snag. I just can't get enough WD.

I can't believe there is an issue here that is a problem. We have a similar setup and it easily transfers weight and it's no big deal to attach the bars. Mr. T. is the man to talk to.

mstephens · 02-02-2014, 02:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SteveH

Sounds like it should work with those bars. How much weight are you trying to distribute to the front?

Maybe you should call Andy and let him help you.

I'd like to get 300# to the front as a minimum. That means 100 more. Yes, I'll call Andy on Monday. I hate to be such a pest on the poor guy. He's been very helpful already.

There's not that many variables that I can see. More WD required more force applied on the chains - no choice.

SteveH · 02-02-2014, 02:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mstephens

I'd like to get 300# to the front as a minimum. That means 100 more. Yes, I'll call Andy on Monday. I hate to be such a pest on the poor guy. He's been very helpful already.

There's not that many variables that I can see. More WD required more force applied on the chains - no choice.

Yep that's about right, but why have you decided on needing 300#'s of transfer to the front axle, I believe you have installed air shocks?

mstephens · 02-02-2014, 02:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MrUKToad

For what it's worth, I have to jack the back of the Sienna up to the point at which the car's wheels are about to leave the ground. It hasn't harmed the jack over the past three seasons (yet) and my good friends at Can Am tell me it's all perfectly normal. The fuse went once, early on, but hasn't since.

Ahhh, so you are in the same boat it sounds like? Do you know how much WD you are getting on your Sienna?

Dumb Question: What would happen if the rear wheels lost touch with the pavement? Does the parking brake work on the front wheels too? We've been wickedly nervous about such a high lift of the back of the car.

So maybe it "ain't no big deal?" Really? REALLY? LOL

mstephens · 02-02-2014, 02:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SteveH

Yep that's about right, but why have you decided on needing 300#'s of transfer to the front axle, I believe you have installed air shocks?

Good question Steve.

First, I just assumed we want to get our f/r weight distribution close to what the car is without a trailer. 51% front. Second, when I test drove the first condition (140# on front) the steering felt too light. There was a bit of wander, and the steering felt a bit vague. This was at 55 MPH on the freeway.

My intuition says that when hooked up, I will get the best handling when the f/r weight ratio is as close as I can get to 51%.

mstephens · 02-02-2014, 02:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Road Ruler

I can't believe there is an issue here that is a problem. We have a similar setup and it easily transfers weight and it's no big deal to attach the bars. Mr. T. is the man to talk to.

HUH? Dang. Do you have the EazLift? How exactly do you hook the chains?

subfan1 · 02-02-2014, 02:50 PM

Have you tried less psi inthe air shocks? Would that make any difference?

SteveH · 02-02-2014, 02:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mstephens

Good question Steve.

First, I just assumed we want to get our f/r weight distribution close to what the car is without a trailer. 51% front. Second, when I test drove the first condition (140# on front) the steering felt too light. There was a bit of wander, and the steering felt a bit vague. This was at 55 MPH on the freeway.

My intuition says that when hooked up, I will get the best handling when the f/r weight ratio is as close as I can get to 51%.

That's a reasonable assumption with a sedan, but may not be achievable.

When I get that light on the front end feeling in the steering wheel, I increase air pressure in the TV rear tires, and reduce air pressure in the front tires and it usually takes care of it. I normally run the door sticker air pressure in the front tires when towing.

subfan1 · 02-02-2014, 02:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SteveH

That's a reasonable assumption with a sedan, but may not be achievable.

When I get that light on the front end feeling in the steering wheel, I increase air pressure in the TV rear tires, and reduce air pressure in the front tires and it usually takes care of it. I normally run the door sticker air pressure in the front tires when towing.

That has also been my experience.

mstephens · 02-02-2014, 03:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SteveH

That's a reasonable assumption with a sedan, but may not be achievable.

When I get that light on the front end feeling in the steering wheel, I increase air pressure in the TV rear tires, and reduce air pressure in the front tires and it usually takes care of it. I normally run the door sticker air pressure in the front tires when towing.

Interesting. I get the idea. Suppose I have sticker pressure at the rear (which I do), then lower the front by 10%? Or would you be thinking even more?

MrUKToad · 02-02-2014, 03:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mstephens

Ahhh, so you are in the same boat it sounds like? Do you know how much WD you are getting on your Sienna?

Dumb Question: What would happen if the rear wheels lost touch with the pavement? Does the parking brake work on the front wheels too? We've been wickedly nervous about such a high lift of the back of the car.

So maybe it "ain't no big deal?" Really? REALLY? LOL

We hitch up on a sloping drive and I've even had the rear wheels off the ground with no problems. The Sienna is front wheel drive so I stick it park and all is OK with the car, but I also have my x-chocks in place between the wheels of the trailer and I have a couple of yellow plastic chocks in place on the leading wheels as a back up. If the trailer won't move then neither will the car.

This year, I took the chains up a third of a link (long story but happy to explain if you want) so the chains are shorter now and require a little more effort to get them in place. I have to get the car's back wheels almost off the ground, hook the chains on then use the pipe lever to snap the hooks in place on the A-frame; sometimes a reasonable amount of force is required. Once hooked, I lower it all down and I can see the bars flex and the torque acting on the hitch receiver (it comes up and forward a bit).

I haven't done a proper weighing process so I don't know what the transfer is like, but both car and trailer sit visibly level and drive well.

Andy T might suggest that you persevere with lifting the rear of the car; it's a bit worrying when you start doing it but you get used to the process. After a while, the bars will wear in a bit and I'm sure it won't be so hard to do anyway.