Tips for prepping the floor for peel & stick

[MonaxLisa]

I've just pulled up the carpet (found a nickel from 1988, probably hasnt been vacuumed since then), so far the front half of the trailer is totally done (no nails, staples etc) and the floor looks pretty good. Behind the pull out sofa is a little bit of wood rot (which I knew when I bought it). I'm probably just going to leave it as is. I don't have the skill to cut a whole new floor to lay on top or something like that. I'm going to seal the entire floor with oil based Killz and fill any big nail holes if I find them, there is one spot where the seams of the plywood are higher on one side than the other, any idea how I can fill this so it's smoother? Any and all tips will be appreciated, thanks

[Melody Ranch]

If you are doing the floor like that...I think you could get some "Get-Rot" (a marine product) follow the directions and I think you will be able to stabilize the floor rot problem. As for leveling....get some leveling compound...used under vinel tile flooring....but you can use it for what ever. Easy to use also. Be sure to kill all that mildew you have mentioned elsewhere. What floor covering will you use?

[68 TWind]

If you just have a few smaller spots to level, HD has a product called Feather Edge. I used some last week and it does a good job. It is a portland cement based product, as most leveling compounds are, but this is a little thicker and you trowel is on. Only negative I found was it sets up really fast (maybe cause it was over 90 degrees that day) but the pot life is short so you may want to mix small batches. Keep it thin because if you leave high spots it takes some aggressive grit paper on a good sander to knock them down.

[tschat]

On a on side note, I had HD tint my can of Kilz. I knew that I was putting down a darker colored floor and I figured it would be best if the 2 colors were close.

-thomas

[Wabbiteer]

There is a two-part filler made by the same people that make auto body putty - I think Bondo is actually on the can - that mixes and hardens in ten minutes and is easily sanded smooth to erase any tool marks. I've used it to fill before painting on exterior wood trim and once painted its nearly inert and will outlast the wood I put it on. I think it would last best with all the movement of the wood to apply it to lightly primed wood that still has texture to it if you're going to feather out a three or five inch edge - applying it to thick paint may see it flake off in time...

[tinhutjohn]

I know one restorer put down 1/8" thick mahogany door skins that evened out the "bumps" in the floor. Didn't have to mix anything. Then put the flooring on top.

[MonaxLisa]

I'll be getting the Git-Rot tomorrow, thanks for suggesting it!! Initial sticker shock but it'll be worth it. Also picked up some floor filler to even out the seams and I'll probably put some over the staple holes where the carpet tacking was.