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Old 08-31-2015, 10:04 AM   #29
The Sign Lady
1969 23' Safari
1974 Argosy 22
1964 24' Tradewind
Victoria , British Columbia
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 675
Whoa... no disrespect to the fellow that made the VAP video, but I think he was just showing what and how they work, not the how to actually use them in practice.

A previous repair to my trailer was done using Olympics with no sealant with the rivets and I can assure you that is a disaster. I don't know how many years ago the repair had been done but I do know that butyl was used around the windows and it had hardened and shrunk allowing water to course through and then along the overlaps of the side panel they had used some sort of foam tape and the foam had degraded allowing water through. I ended up pulling the whole side off the trailer and reseating everything.

I used Sitkaflex 221 grey. It works awesome but the Trempro Frank mentioned would be great if you can find some. Here is my video on how to use Olympics properly.

If you have clear access to both side of the material buck rivets are the way to go they seem more stable and are way cheaper.

Also do a search on the forums for the show me you patches thread and have fun with it.... who needs a boring square patch :-)

But most importantly have fun and enjoy your trailer :-)

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Old 08-31-2015, 10:17 AM   #30
2 Rivet Member
Fayetteville , New York
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 20
I actually saw your video which led me down the path to the Olympic rivets.

Even though I should be using buck rivets, I'm concerned about training my helper to do it correctly.

I have not found the TremPro so I'm going with Vulkem 116. It will give me a long cure time to work out any issues I have.

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Old 08-31-2015, 11:49 AM   #31
The Sign Lady
1969 23' Safari
1974 Argosy 22
1964 24' Tradewind
Victoria , British Columbia
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 675
Get some scrap to practice with...I spent a fortune on Olympics especially with being in Canada, the extra shipping, duty and taxes to get them across the border killed me financially. I wish I had bought the bucks sooner. If you're planning on owing the trailer a long time or having multiples like me if you can afford it, it's nice to have both kits.

Oh and buy more rivets than you think you'll need... Lots more...

But far and away the best purchase I have ever made for my airstream collection is this baby... Rivet Removal Tool

You wouldn't worry so much about mistakes once you have this easy way of getting bad rivets out :-)
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Old 09-21-2016, 03:43 AM   #32
2 Rivet Member
Goliad , Texas
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 55
It is the acetate in the Silicone

Originally Posted by avionstream View Post
Unless it is the special one made for aluminum if that even exists, I think silicon reacts with the aluminum and eats it away after a period if time. Correct?
As long as the Silicone does not contain any acetates then it is perfectly fine to use on Aluminum.

In fact I am redoing a '65 Overlander and it appears AS knew this to because in the front section they used silicone along the windows and front seams. I learned about the acetates from my years in electrical business.
The Frommes
Goliad, Texas
The Birth Place of S. Texas Ranching
WBCCI #6256
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Old 01-13-2017, 03:13 PM   #33
1 Rivet Member
Chromepuff's Avatar
1977 29' Ambassador
Mesa , Arizona
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 7

I have buck and Olympic rivets and none of them leak on my 1977 ambassador I am doing a total restoration , I took down the interior skin none of the seams leak because they have a rubberized white sealant caulking on the interior and its on there pretty thick. Not even my old windows leak, but they need new seals.

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