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Old 08-29-2015, 09:03 PM   #21
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1957 22' Caravanner
1960 26' Overlander
1963 24' Tradewind
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What exactly is your direct question?
You're kinda shooting yourself in the foot asking a question and then when you get an anwser from a Pro disagreeing with him.
You seem to be really knowledgable on these things,why not just use your Olympics and be done with it?
Go enjoy your trailer with all the ripples and leaking things on it.
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Old 08-29-2015, 09:28 PM   #22
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What to Sandwich Between 2 Sheets of Aluminum Before Riveting

Such an unusual family ...
One pro says Olympics leak, another pro says all rivets leak when improperly installed, however Olympics never leak when properly installed. Reading the forum threads the consensus is slathering the inside no matter what prevents leaks, which comes back around to the questions above and why I asked them.
Wow ...
Currently our AS isn't leaking thanks, hope the same for you,
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Old 08-30-2015, 04:05 PM   #23
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Fayetteville , New York
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Let me try and bring this back on topic. Before I do let me add this being a noob on restoring an RV. I thought I would use the Olympic rivets because that is what I saw on the forums. Originally I was thinking of using closed rivets. I have access to both sides of the rivets, but don't feel comfortable attempting to buck rivet. It would be my wife and I and having no experience it is something I want to stay away from.

Over the past 24 hours I've come up with a few options.

1. Use butyl tape in all of the areas I can get easy access too. That would be mainly on the top and partially down the sides. Areas where I can't get easy access to for butyl tape, I would use the rubber that goes inside a bicycle rim to protect the tube. I would then rivet this down using Olympic rivets using the current set of holes. Once that is done I would liberally apply sealant along the inside seam and rivet bottoms. -- My concern is being able to align all of the holes since the butyl tape will not allow me to see through.

2. My second option is to use the butyl tape and rubber as before but use standard closed pop rivets. Once they are attached I would liberally apply sealant on top of the rivets and along the outside seam and then I would attach a band of aluminum from one side of the trailer over the rivets, seams and sealant to the other side. This I would rivet using Olympic head rivets. In effect the original rivets and seam would be covered by this band of aluminum creating a waterproof seal along the original seam. The only holes would be for the new rivets.

Again, I have never restored an RV so please let me know what your thoughts are and add any suggestions you might have.

Here are pics of the RV












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Old 08-30-2015, 04:54 PM   #24
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Post #8 has your answer.
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Old 08-30-2015, 05:03 PM   #25
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So the use of the sealant between the sheets and rivets securing the sheets will provide a water tight seal?
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Old 08-30-2015, 07:01 PM   #26
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After searching online, I can't find any suppliers of Trempro 626/636. The only thing I can find is Vulkem 116. I looked at the following post(
[A/S] Final word on Vulkem choices) and it seems like it will work. What is the cure time in comparison to 626/636? I want something that is long so I have time to fix any screwups.
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Old 08-31-2015, 05:35 AM   #27
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Vulkem 116 has the longest "skin time" available. Use that.

Installing solid rivets is pretty easy. If you have access to both sides of the rivet, that is what you should be using. Get the tools, practice on some scrap sheets and go to work.

Vintage Trailer Supply sells kits with everything you need.

Have fun!
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Old 08-31-2015, 05:38 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whalensdad View Post
So the use of the sealant between the sheets and rivets securing the sheets will provide a water tight seal?
If you do it right, yes.
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Old 08-31-2015, 10:04 AM   #29
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Whoa... no disrespect to the fellow that made the VAP video, but I think he was just showing what and how they work, not the how to actually use them in practice.

A previous repair to my trailer was done using Olympics with no sealant with the rivets and I can assure you that is a disaster. I don't know how many years ago the repair had been done but I do know that butyl was used around the windows and it had hardened and shrunk allowing water to course through and then along the overlaps of the side panel they had used some sort of foam tape and the foam had degraded allowing water through. I ended up pulling the whole side off the trailer and reseating everything.

I used Sitkaflex 221 grey. It works awesome but the Trempro Frank mentioned would be great if you can find some. Here is my video on how to use Olympics properly.

If you have clear access to both side of the material buck rivets are the way to go they seem more stable and are way cheaper.

Also do a search on the forums for the show me you patches thread and have fun with it.... who needs a boring square patch :-)


https://youtu.be/lYmQsn6DlE4

But most importantly have fun and enjoy your trailer :-)
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Old 08-31-2015, 10:17 AM   #30
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I actually saw your video which led me down the path to the Olympic rivets.

Even though I should be using buck rivets, I'm concerned about training my helper to do it correctly.

I have not found the TremPro so I'm going with Vulkem 116. It will give me a long cure time to work out any issues I have.
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Old 08-31-2015, 11:49 AM   #31
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1969 23' Safari
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Get some scrap to practice with...I spent a fortune on Olympics especially with being in Canada, the extra shipping, duty and taxes to get them across the border killed me financially. I wish I had bought the bucks sooner. If you're planning on owing the trailer a long time or having multiples like me if you can afford it, it's nice to have both kits.

Oh and buy more rivets than you think you'll need... Lots more...

But far and away the best purchase I have ever made for my airstream collection is this baby... Rivet Removal Tool

You wouldn't worry so much about mistakes once you have this easy way of getting bad rivets out :-)
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Old 09-21-2016, 03:43 AM   #32
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It is the acetate in the Silicone

Quote:
Originally Posted by avionstream View Post
Unless it is the special one made for aluminum if that even exists, I think silicon reacts with the aluminum and eats it away after a period if time. Correct?
As long as the Silicone does not contain any acetates then it is perfectly fine to use on Aluminum.

In fact I am redoing a '65 Overlander and it appears AS knew this to because in the front section they used silicone along the windows and front seams. I learned about the acetates from my years in electrical business.
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Old 01-13-2017, 03:13 PM   #33
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1977 29' Ambassador
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rivets?

I have buck and Olympic rivets and none of them leak on my 1977 ambassador I am doing a total restoration , I took down the interior skin none of the seams leak because they have a rubberized white sealant caulking on the interior and its on there pretty thick. Not even my old windows leak, but they need new seals.
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