Leak help needed! Where should I be looking?

[GlobeTrottin]

The rear compartment (pretty much the aft 6 inches closest to the bumper) of this 64 Globetrotter has always been damp after rain for the 2 years I have owned it. The rest of the unit has solid floors and no leaks to speak of. Last night we had a BIG rain! I am certain that the bumper/storage area collects water and directs it in to the plywood which I plan to dry, clean, and seal with Trempro I got from Vintage Trailer Supply. BUT there is water at a "higher level" than could get there from that. In fact it is wet along both sides of the fiberglass of the sink/tub (a little water in the sink and tub and more down the "compartment side" making the plywood shelf under the tub wet too).
I have read with interest Andy and others telling of clearance lights, window seals, and vent stack gaskets. I plan to work on all of those but I really would love any insight from anyone out there!
And yes, I do realize that to fix it more permanently I will someday need to pull the tub and put new plywood in there, etc. but now I'm trying to make an improvement so I can go camping!
This all started when my new Charge Wizard said "do not install in wet locations"... and so one job leads to another...
Please take a moment to share your thoughts, suggestions and experience!
Thanks,
Bob

[Alwhisman]

Thats right about the lights, stack, and vent. Any skin penetration needs to be checked and sealed. Is it sitting level, or tongue higher? Water has a funny way of travelling from where you would never think. Even level, it could be coming from more forward than you think. It's tough not being able to see first hand. You're right about waiting on the plywood change, wouldn't do any good to you eliminate the the water problem......

[Frank's Trailer Works]

it is coming in up high. I would be willing to bet the top of the window is compromised and also the vent curb.

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by GlobeTrottin

The rear compartment (pretty much the aft 6 inches closest to the bumper) of this 64 Globetrotter has always been damp after rain for the 2 years I have owned it. The rest of the unit has solid floors and no leaks to speak of. Last night we had a BIG rain! I am certain that the bumper/storage area collects water and directs it in to the plywood which I plan to dry, clean, and seal with Trempro I got from Vintage Trailer Supply. BUT there is water at a "higher level" than could get there from that. In fact it is wet along both sides of the fiberglass of the sink/tub (a little water in the sink and tub and more down the "compartment side" making the plywood shelf under the tub wet too).
I have read with interest Andy and others telling of clearance lights, window seals, and vent stack gaskets. I plan to work on all of those but I really would love any insight from anyone out there!
And yes, I do realize that to fix it more permanently I will someday need to pull the tub and put new plywood in there, etc. but now I'm trying to make an improvement so I can go camping!
This all started when my new Charge Wizard said "do not install in wet locations"... and so one job leads to another...
Please take a moment to share your thoughts, suggestions and experience!
Thanks,
Bob

Bob.

Gaskets and more gaskets.

The access door gasket, if never replaced, is a good leaker. The access door lock, may need adjustment.

All the window gaskets on the 63, 64 and 65 are notorious leakers as well.

Your rusted clearance lights are probably leaking, too.

How is the seal for the tail lights?

You have a battery vent hole at the rear. If it's not being used, as originally intended, it can leak as well.

The trailer may have rear end separation.

All of those issues should be addressed, one at a time.

After each of those issues are addressed, do a water test.

Lay a couple of pieces of newspaper just inside the access door, then water down the rear shell with a water hose.

Keep that testing up, until the paper no longers gets wet.

Don't give up with the testing, as there is an answer. But you have to spend the time, effort and probably some money, to find all the causes of the water leak.

I think you will find more than one of those items are causing the problem.

Andy

[GlobeTrottin]

Thanks everyone - these are some very good points. Andy- tell me more about the battery vent hole. Where/what is that? Is there something that I need to know about venting the battery? Anything to do or not to do? I'm preparing to follow all your instructions.
Bob

[overlander64]

Greetings Bob!

Originally Posted by GlobeTrottin

Thanks everyone - these are some very good points. Andy- tell me more about the battery vent hole. Where/what is that? Is there something that I need to know about venting the battery? Anything to do or not to do? I'm preparing to follow all your instructions.
Bob

I have borrowed one of your photos and highlighted in multi-colors the battery vent opening on your coach. If you are utilizing a lead-acid battery, it should be vented since the rear one-stop-service-center is not isolated from the interior of your coach. I went with AGM batteries in my Overlander to avoid the critical venting issues. My coach never had its battery venting system so I don't know precisely how it was configured.

Kevin

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by GlobeTrottin

Thanks everyone - these are some very good points. Andy- tell me more about the battery vent hole. Where/what is that? Is there something that I need to know about venting the battery? Anything to do or not to do? I'm preparing to follow all your instructions.
Bob

Bob.

The battery vent hole is immediately below the "1" in your license plate.

It's a small hole shaded by a small piece of angle aluminum, that makes a hood.

All lead acid batteries that will be charged, should be covered and the fumes exhausted outside.

If the battery really fails, the Univolt will cook it, creating fumes that you should not breathe.

Originally, Airstream had a plastic cover over the battery, that was held in place by a rectangular bracket, that in turn was held down, along with the battery, with the hold down bolts.

There was a small, like 1/4 inch ID clear piece of plastic tubing that went from that cover, to the hole in question.

That setup prevented any battery fumes from entering the trailer.

Unfortunately, the vast majority of owners have discarded that setup, for what ever their reasons may be.

Sad to say, that can cause a huge problem.

Maybe we should all get together and make a big "to do" about it, so people can hook it back up.

Of course, when that set up was in use, water could not enter that exhaust hole tubing, except at the very outside end, and could not go any where except back out.

To me, that vent is a good safety feature.

Andy

[GlobeTrottin]

I have a plastic "case" for a battery - not sure why I have it in my garage.. Maybe I could use it to keep my battery isolated and vent the case with something like flexible fuel line? Might work. Looking at my pictures, I realize what an authentic jumble of junk there is back there. I'm also preparing to replace the water supply lines with PEX. Just did some of that in my house and I am now a convert.
Tomorrow I'll start with the sealing, gasket replacement, and super-sleuth work to find those leaks.
Bob

[GlobeTrottin]

Oh yeah, one more thing, Andy - I have only put 40 miles on the new axle I bought from you last year. How embarrassing is that? I really need to get out there and use this thing. The kids think it's a yard ornament. Seriously I'm going camping next week.
Or so.
Bob

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by GlobeTrottin

Oh yeah, one more thing, Andy - I have only put 40 miles on the new axle I bought from you last year. How embarrassing is that? I really need to get out there and use this thing. The kids think it's a yard ornament. Seriously I'm going camping next week.
Or so.
Bob

Get out of Dodge for a few days, and relax for a while.

Do some serious but enjoyable Airstreaming.

Andy

[VIKING]

Don't forget to check around the Airstream Emblem above the rear window. Notorious leakers!

Rich

[Frank's Trailer Works]

and the curb on the rear vent....

[GlobeTrottin]

Today I spent some time on the roof fixing up the vent, sealing around the skylights, and the awning rail... then around the tail lights, along the back bumper, and a few other spots. Also replaced the seal all the way around the rear window. Once the new caulk sits for a day or two I'll start water testing to see if the leaks are gone. Probably a few rounds of this ahead but it's fun to be tackling it.
Bob

[GlobeTrottin]

A whole tube of caulk and then it rained and then it got wet again!!! NOW WHAT? I know, I will keep looking and caulking and testing and etc. I think it may have leaked LESS but it did not stop. I put a new rubber seal all the way around the back window where it seals tight when you close the window and didn't see any water on the sill. I suppose it could be the fantastic fan vent on the roof which admittedly has some cracked yellow-ish sealant around it. That could be removed and replaced with the "good stuff" from vintage trailer supply that I have another tube of. The fan was installed at an SOB dealer and my luck with them has been minimal thus far on other repairs.
Bob