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Old 07-03-2008, 09:36 PM   #99
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I have never used the Superbright LED G4 side pin bulb. They might have a wider angle emiter at 120 degrees beam pattern (listed). I can say that the IMTRA bulb has 8 emitters, a 60 or 90 degree beam pattern (I have the 90 degree model) and a 3 year warranty for just a few bucks more a bulb.
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Old 09-19-2008, 10:57 AM   #100
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I believe this is still on topic so here goes.

I'm going to put round 3"ish recessed lights into a 75 Safari. I'm looking at either putting in recessed dedicated LED lights (like found on sailorsams.com) or just opting for the standaed halogen variety since it give me the option of the 10W, 5W halogen bulbs plus the option to convert to LED.

I'm concerned that LED may not be bright enough and then I'll be stuck with limited options.

Ideas or observations for those folks that have bravely gone before?
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Old 10-01-2008, 10:34 PM   #101
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I'd stick with 5 watt halogens

Having been down the road with G4 based lights, halogen, and led replacements, I'd stick with 5 watt halogens, and replace the 10 watt bulbs that came with your unit. Buy the 5 watters on e-bay. The LED's simply don't put out the light and you need to be very careful that they don't over heat and have good dc voltage (meaning a very good regulated supply). Gerry
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Old 10-02-2008, 02:03 AM   #102
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Gerry--

Thanks for the feedback. I'm still looking for lights and like the flexiblity of the good old halogen.
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Old 10-02-2008, 05:11 AM   #103
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When I was on the factory tour last week I saw a box of LED light that be replacements for the halogens in a Safari. We asked about them, thinking they would be used in upcoming units. They said they tried them but they didn't provide enough light so they won't be using them.

I like the option of a lot of light when plugged in so I've gone with a few LED fixtures from West Marine. I use them when I'm concerned about saving power. They provide just enough light to make breakfast and not wake up Sam.
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Old 10-14-2008, 12:41 PM   #104
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Just got back from the Airstream dealer in Eugene, OR. We were driving back from Ashland and decide to swing by. I really like the small halogon lights in the newer AR, specially the spring loaded mounting design.

Does anyone know who makes them? I found a similar design at ITC marine

Overhead Halogen Lighting - Marine
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Old 10-15-2008, 04:03 PM   #105
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Xenons, too

Ron,
We removed and replaced the 10w halogens from the four overhead bins and the four reading lights. We installed 5w xenon bulbs in these. We read the xenons generate less heat (good in itself) and may therefore last longer. We use the overhead bins for ambient lighting and are very happy with the 1/2 lighting level and even more with the reduced power load on our batteries.

We're going to reinstall the 10w halogens in the two aircraft style reading lights at either end of the sofa. When Debbie is needlepointing or either of us are reading small print the brighter light is well worth the extra load of 10 more watts total.

The bathroom light has two bulbs and a three-position switch -- off, one, two. We changed the one bulb to 5 watts. The other, I think, is 20 watts. So showering or toileting one can choose between low light and very bright light. And the resultant battery consumption difference.

The dozen or so overhead 10w halogens we use only for housekeeping or searching for that lost aspirin on the floor. They stay off otherwise. So we've kept them at full power.

We just added a new task light to our lifespace -- an Ott-Lite (OTL13TCG). Has a 13watt twin tube fluorescent bulb in a hinged cover, uses 110 volts. Turns on the light when you raise the cover. Lamp sits on sofa arm or dinette or front window shelf. Gives the most light of all we have. Working out great so far for when we are on shore power.

LEDs may eventually become inexpensive enough to warrant replacing the overhead bin lights, but does not seem likely. We are extremely unlikely to burn most of these xenons or halogens out as infrequently as we use them. The xenons are highly rated for hours lifetime. We could use less light in the overhead bins but the led prices aren't attracting us. Nowhere else would we see anywhere worth reducing our light levels.
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Old 05-03-2009, 03:50 PM   #106
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LED ceiling lights

Quote:
Originally Posted by Westfalia View Post
I have never used the Superbright LED G4 side pin bulb. They might have a wider angle emiter at 120 degrees beam pattern (listed). I can say that the IMTRA bulb has 8 emitters, a 60 or 90 degree beam pattern (I have the 90 degree model) and a 3 year warranty for just a few bucks more a bulb.
I just replaced my G4 ceiling lights using the Superbright LEDs G4-WHP10-D warm white 3100k, which cost $15 each.

As shown, the inner metal ring containing the glass lens is pried loose and partially out, with difficulty using the finger nails (to avoid scratches on the metal), and then easily pried out using a flat blade screwdriver.

Once the LED is installed, the 2 wide opposing slots (see photo of lens rim on black pillow) in the rim tabs of the inner metal ring must match up and fit over the 2 fixture support bars (seen in bottom left photo at 7:00 of the rim space) to allow the metal rim to be matched and pushed back into the fixture.

The G4 10 watt halogen reading lights were replaced with G4-WHP15-T $17each.

The wedge base incandescent bulb in the over the stove/exhaust fan light fixture was replaced with T10-PCB-WHP9 White LED Lamp (warm white 3100K). $22 each

I will be replacing my bathroom and over the kitchen counter lights with
1156-PCB-xWHP9 3100K WARM WHITE. $22/lamp

We are very happy with the savings in battery draw, the amount of light transmission, and reduced heat emission.
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Old 05-04-2009, 10:57 PM   #107
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LED Ceiling lights

Good luck (sincerely).

I have been very disappointed with LED "Arrays" in general.

It may be true that LED's will last forever, but what they don't tell you is that when they're used in an array, on a printed circuit board like you're using (and I have used) the assembly fails......individual LED's begin to flicker and eventually burn out.

If you look at traffic lights you'll also notice some of the individual LEDs have failed in their arrays.

I have tried them with G4 bases as you have (two different vendors) as well as using them (twice) over my entrance door with a standard 12 volt automotive lamp socket and all have failed.

I think a combination of heat and voltage get to these things and in an Airstream the heat in the top of the trailer dooms them to short life and when one LED fails the voltage imbalance in the rest of the printed circuit causes the rest to fail.

Gerry
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Old 05-05-2009, 12:07 AM   #108
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Fenghuang,

If you could - Please post a picture with the LED on so we can see how bright it is.

Thanks



Quote:
Originally Posted by Fenghuang View Post
I just replaced my G4 ceiling lights using the Superbright LEDs G4-WHP10-D warm white 3100k, which cost $15 each.

As shown, the inner metal ring containing the glass lens is pried loose and partially out, with difficulty using the finger nails (to avoid scratches on the metal), and then easily pried out using a flat blade screwdriver.

Once the LED is installed, the 2 wide opposing slots (see photo of lens rim on black pillow) in the rim tabs of the inner metal ring must match up and fit over the 2 fixture support bars (seen in bottom left photo at 7:00 of the rim space) to allow the metal rim to be matched and pushed back into the fixture.

The G4 10 watt halogen reading lights were replaced with G4-WHP15-T $17each.

The wedge base incandescent bulb in the over the stove/exhaust fan light fixture was replaced with T10-PCB-WHP9 White LED Lamp (warm white 3100K). $22 each

I will be replacing my bathroom and over the kitchen counter lights with
1156-PCB-xWHP9 3100K WARM WHITE. $22/lamp

We are very happy with the savings in battery draw, the amount of light transmission, and reduced heat emission.
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Old 05-05-2009, 02:45 AM   #109
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As mentioned in post#76, above, and pictures in post#82 above, I installed (11) Dr. LED spot's in the ceiling, last June...

....well, I've recently had failured and 'dim' LED's in the cluster of each unit I installed! These units don't have a lot of 'hours' on them, and the failures all appeared in a short period of time last month...I sure that overtemp isn't the cause, as it's the winter months, and also, we don't freeze here, and I keep a 100 watt light burning 24/7 inside the trailer during the winter to keep the temp up a bit, and keep any moisture at bay...the temp hasn't really been below 50 f degrees all winter in there, and that shouldn't effect the LEDs....

...interestingly, last fall, Dr. LED announced it was no longer selling the units I had purchased, and that they've been replaced with a new design that has only three higher wattage LEDs...

I contacted Dr. LED, and was told I could return the failed units for replacements, but I'm insisting on the new units, as I believe i'll be back where I started with the 'old' style, multi LED units...they wouldn't admit any 'problems' with the old units, but there must be something going on there...bad imported LED's, perhaps???

I removed the old units last week, and am waiting for the replacements, so I can rewire and reinstall - another few hours work I hadn't planned on doing!

These things aren't cheap, almost $40's a pop, and one would think there would be some better testing done before selling...so much for the 'longer life' claim!....I don't mind the 'investment', with the lower amp drain on the battery bank, but all of them going to 'pot' is a little bit much, IMHO!

I'll let you know how it all works out, and take some new pic's then I get them installed...

I've now got all the marker lights, tail lights, lic plate lite and stop lights changed over to LED's, as well as two reading lights over the twin beds, two over the galley sink, two in the recessed fixtures forward, and an array in the fixture over the door, outside, and the outside round 'service' light under the awing.

I want to change the big lights in the bathroom, but will need some brighter units for that project!

I've spent a lot ot time and $'s on these LED conversions, but sadly, I fear they still aren't all they're cracked up to be, in some cases!
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Old 05-05-2009, 07:00 AM   #110
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Because LED's are still a new technology, there are a lot of small companies making them, some good and some not. There are definitely some bad LED bulbs for sale as has been reported previously on the Forum. As first adopters, we all face the problem of trying to figure out which to buy and which to avoid. I got the ones to replace the halogens from lewster (he uses them himself in his trailer) and he recommended the Superbrights for the ones to replace the incandescents. It cost a lot and so far, no problems, but this is early in the time we're using them.

I'm sorry to hear you're having problems Mexray. I know how expensive they are, though we paid no more than $22/lamp—the Superbrights. We paid less for the ones from lewster. I hope you get some satisfaction from Dr. LED and they return your money. And thanks for letting us know to avoid that company.

Gene
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Old 05-05-2009, 08:39 AM   #111
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Mexray, sorry to hear of your bad experiences with LED's. Our popup has had the Superbrights for 3 years and our Airstream going on 2 years with no failures.
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Old 05-05-2009, 03:36 PM   #112
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I agree with Ahab, I've been using several different Superbright supplied bulbs for quite some time now without any failures. Great company!
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