Advice on total remodel or select repair

[StarckMad]

Looking for some experience to speak to my in experience.

We have a 74 Argosy 26, bath in the back. I've already discovered 2 plumbing leaks in the copper and have decided to replace with PEX. On closer examination the bathroom fixtures have some issues, and we're trying to decide to totally gut and renovate or do some selective replacement.

The plastic sink has a 3 inch crack in it. The commode also a 2" crack just below rim. The faucets in both shower and sink need replacing.

End question: Should I gut or just repair/replace affected items?

Signed: PerPlEXed

[drboyd]

Do selective replacement until it gets to be way too much trouble.

FWIW.

[adonh]

What is your Budget? That will determine which way to proceed.

[thesignlady]

If your argosy is as solid as mine is I would go with select repair. It gets expensive very fast to do a remodel. Even one that you think will be minor

[StarckMad]

Thanks. I'm usually willing to spend more and do it right once. My better half likes the select replacement idea. I think I'll go with that. I have the feeling there will be plenty more projects.

[TG Twinkie]

I have a '74 Argosy 26'.
I have done extensive upgrades to this coach.
All new PEX, new sinks and faucets in bath and galley along with new galley and bath cabinets. New stove top.
New toilet.
Tore out the gaucho and installed a front dinette.
Upgraded to a modern 3 stage converter and installed an 1,100 watt inverter.
And the list goes on.
If I can be of any help. Just PM me with your email address. I have many photos of what I have done.


Sent from my iPod touch using Airstream Forums

[Denda]

We have a '72 Argosy 22'. We have been replacing as needed and have already spent quite a bit!

[Stefrobrts]

I say selective repairs, keep it on the road as much as possible.

For example, when I did the floor on my Caravel, people were encouraging me to go all the way back and remove the bathroom to fix any rot under there. I have no doubt the floor back there could use some work, but from what I could see under the cabinets, it actually looks pretty good. I knew that if I pulled out the bathroom, I would also want to redo all the plumbing, probably add a grey tank, maybe update the wiring since the wall panels would be removed, and that it was going to take a lot more time and money. So I didn't do any of that. I wanted the trailer to be back on the road by spring, so I did just what needed to be done, and truthfully, I think it was the right move. We've been enjoying it for the last ten years with very few issues. Our copper pipes have a few PEX patches now, but otherwise all has been well.

I say do the minimum to keep it on the road, don't fall into the trap of 'if I'm going to do it I might as well do it right'. Just my opinion.

[switz]

Really deep pockets to hire help - do it quickly once. Limited resources - piecemeal with multiple passes of the same area over time.

[aquinob]

I'm going to go against the current here and say base the work on what is needed. What you don't mention is the condition of the subfloor where it connects the the rear wall. This is the typical failure point for rear end separation. If it is typical of that era then most likely there is some rot if not quite a bit. And if you have rot, you may have significant rust in the rear frame as well. So if you go in and patch up the fixtures and fix the plumbing leaks and whatever else trips your trigger, you may be back in there tearing it all out when you finally have to bite the bullet and do the job right or sell the rig for less than what you want as a fixer upper. You've got a 40 year old trailer there, if it was a 40 year old car or 40 year old house, I doubt you would consider doing the bare minimum for repair work because you know that approach generally can cost you more in the long run.

Fixing the rear bath on my '73 Overlander was the first major project I tackled, but it was very necessary and once past that, its should not be a worry for as long as I own this trailer (I hope). I did all the work myself, if I had to farm it out, I'm not sure how much it would have cost, but would probably be a good portion of what I paid for the whole rig in the first place. You don't have to do a shell off or a complete interior gut if the basic bones (frame and floor) are good, but you do need to get in and look at the whole frame at some point to make sure there are no major issues. That entails pulling down the whole belly pan and replacing the pink insulation with something that won't hold moisture against the frame.

Take a look at my blog if you like, I have the whole rear bath episode documented as "phase 1". You can also see the thread posted here on airforums: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f46/...up-100164.html Good luck