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Old 11-21-2006, 11:40 AM   #15
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Ron- that same item is what caused that rusty spot we looked at on my Sovereign. later when I was messing around with adding antifreeze to the tank, I saw some dripping out in that very spot. Seems it runs thru the side and comes out just ahead of the wheel well.
I guess I will have to repair my inlet also, but it is not too easy to get to inside from what i see so far.
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Old 11-21-2006, 11:45 AM   #16
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Alan, what is on the inside of your trailer from the water inlet? Mine is under the fender skirt in the closet.

Dan
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Old 11-21-2006, 03:38 PM   #17
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Well, if I can not rebuild the one I have I plan to change the design. I just spoke to the local Airstream expert, Griffith RV, and the water inlet door that I am going to try to retrofit to the trailer is an Airstream part number 601194. They will have to order me one and from what they described I'll have to enlarge the hole slightly and then this one will mount to the outside of the trailer. It is gray plastic (I'll try to paint it bright silver I think) with a lock as supplied on the current trailers. It will use the same tubing as the older one.

Dan
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Old 11-22-2006, 07:09 AM   #18
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Dan,

Here is a pic of the "restored" filler door. I found a cam lock for it at the camper store for $4.59.

It took a little time and patience but I think it will work just fine. The fiberglass reinforced filler on the back is pretty strong and once it is mounted, the aluminum skin will support it as well.

I had to rebuild the filler neck as it was missing a chunk. I inserted a plastic plumbing fitting equal to the ID of the neck with saran wrap over it before I applied the body filler. After it dried, I filed it down to make it smooth.

Alan,

You must have a pretty big hole in the side. If you can remove it, we can rebuild it next month. Just cover the hole with aluminum tape once it's removed. Also, here are some pics of my outrigger repair you might be interested in.
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Old 11-22-2006, 09:06 AM   #19
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Ron,

Great pics, I am going to try to remove the old one this week and see if I can do such a repair. I know mine looks to be in worse shape from the get-go but there is hope! I sure hope I can fix it as I like the flush look of the original much better than the new one if I have to retrofit.

Thanks for the pics.

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Old 11-25-2006, 08:48 PM   #20
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Dan,

Here are some pics of the water filler in place. Be sure to use aluminum washers or backing plates on the back side of the rivet or you'll be rebuilding it again. (The plastic is just too brittle.)
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Old 11-25-2006, 10:37 PM   #21
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Ron,

I did get mine out and it is only in 5 pieces!. Over the next week I will attempt a rebuild but before I do I think I may have found a replacement (used) so I'll see what condition it is in. Either way I think it best to reinforce it with fiberglass. Also, I agree with the aluminum backing plates, my father-in-law and I discussed that very thing over the holiday.

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Old 11-26-2006, 08:56 AM   #22
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hey, what are you guys going to use for a hose to connect the filler neck over to the water tank? the one thats in mine (original, I assume) is black plastic pipe...not terribly flexible, and it comes right through the galley cabinet at an angle that very negatively impacts storage potential for the cabinet. the gas lines, water pipes, tank connections and drain valves go "every which way" in this whole area. It would be nice to re-do most of it to better use the space for kitchen storage. I'm afraid that a more flexible hose for the water tank, with too many sharp bends, might make it difficult to fill the tank. what do you think?
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Old 11-26-2006, 11:56 AM   #23
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Chuck,

I attached a picture of the backside of my inlet. There is a green and white flexible hose attached to it. Mitchell's RV says it was standard equipment and they still have it available. It appears to be a heavy duty flexible hose. Can't say on your installation but I would assume that it would work as well as a rigid pipe.

Dan
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Old 12-17-2006, 07:55 AM   #24
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Chuck,

I used the same green and white flexible as Dano. It is available in 3 different diameters. I think I used 1-3/8" but it may have been 1-1/2". The trick is this....

The OD of the filler is larger than the OD of the elbow going into the freshwater tank. I used a piece of the old black plastic tube as a sleeve over the tank inlet elbow and it worked perfectly! (See pics)

Also, in re-doing the vent lines, I found that the vent on the filler door assembly was 1/2" as opposed to the 3/8" fittings coming off the tank. I used a "T" (two 3/8" into one 1/2") and two different hose sizes.

The factory wizards somehow managed to stretch the original tubing (both fill and vent) to fit but given the brittleness of the 30 year old plastic, I think it is wiser to use the proper size hose on all fittings at this point.
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