Fresh Water Tank: Metal Drain Valve Replacement

[brfrgu]

Hello, my drain valve on the bottom my fresh water tank will won't seal so I can not charge my water system. I tried to turn the nut but the entire disc below it turns with it so it is not threading out.

Anyone who has chanced this out have any recommendations? I also need to locate the replacement part as well.

I have attached a photo of it, it's the valve on the right.

[CRH]

Are you sure those aren't low point drains for the galley plumbing?

[brfrgu]

Yes after going through the owner's manual I did determine that they are low point drains. I can't charge my water system since this valve won't close. It appears in order to change out the valve I will have to drop the metal tub from the bottom which I nervous to start since my planned road trip is next week.

I thought about trying to find the line to this low point drain, cutting it and then putting a cap on it just to get through the end of the season, then properly repair it when I winterize it.

Any thoughts?

[Moflash]

Could you not just clean up the area around the disc and lightly sand to rough up the surface then mix up some J.B Weld Epoxy to apply around the disc and let set 24 hours?
That should hold the base in place and allow you to open and close the valve.I just finger tighten and loosen mine as they are kind of delicate.

[brfrgu]

The valve spins open/close no problem. It no longer functions properly so even when it's closed the water just pours out when I turn on the water pump.

[Al and Missy]

Originally Posted by brfrgu

Hello, my drain valve on the bottom my fresh water tank will won't seal so I can not charge my water system. I tried to turn the nut but the entire disc below it turns with it so it is not threading out.

Anyone who has chanced this out have any recommendations? I also need to locate the replacement part as well.

I have attached a photo of it, it's the valve on the right.

Check auto parts place for radiator petcock
https://www.google.com/search?q=petc...Z0EY741X_ihMM:

You may be able to just swap out the internals.

Al

[bradt]

You can cut a hole in the metal tub to get access to the back of the drain valve. Then remove and replace the valve or cut the line and plug it. You can cover the hole in the metal tub with a small patch of sheet metal and pop rivets. I think that is galvanized steel rather than aluminum so use same materials.
On my trailer I can get to the lines from above in the floor inside my closet.
And i think the jbweld idea could be good, but go further and plug up the drain opening with jbweld. And replace the drain valve later.
You can pull your trailer up on leveling blocks to get more space to work. Good luck with it.
Brad

[brfrgu]

Thank you! Great advice and I'm a bit embarrassed I didn't think of some of this. Thank you all for your help.

[woodfox45]

That metal pan supports the tank . So you don't want to drop that pan unless you want to do a bunch of plumbing work , just cut a access hole and and fix the problem and put a patch over it .

[HiJoeSilver]

Be careful cutting a hole, you don't want to go to far and drill into the tank.

[Streamracer]

Might double check which way you are turning the valve to shut it off. Most are backwards from what is normal.

[OTRA15]

Those cheap plain steel petcocks always fail -- in time. Sorry you have to do major surgery to replace. Hopefully this potential can of worms will not get out of hand!



PS -- Welcome to the forum, brfrgu, although this baptism by fire may not be the best introduction to Airstream life. It gets better!



Peter

[brfrgu]

Originally Posted by OTRA15

Those cheap plain steel petcocks always fail -- in time. Sorry you have to do major surgery to replace. Hopefully this potential can of worms will not get out of hand!



PS -- Welcome to the forum, brfrgu, although this baptism by fire may not be the best introduction to Airstream life. It gets better!



Peter

Hi Peter, do you recommend I replace this petcock valve with a different type of valve?

Thanks.

[Streamracer]

After reading again you said water pours when the pump is on. Does it drain when the pump is off? You might look in all access areas above to see if you can determine where the line attaches and make repairs there, at least for now.

[CRH]

Originally Posted by Streamracer

After reading again you said water pours when the pump is on. Does it drain when the pump is off? You might look in all access areas above to see if you can determine where the line attaches and make repairs there, at least for now.

Exactly.... Put a valve in the middle of the line above the floor.

[OTRA15]

Originally Posted by brfrgu

Hi Peter, do you recommend I replace this petcock valve with a different type of valve?

Thanks.

Yes, anything but another steel cheap valve. Not sure what you are going to find above the belly pan, but if there is room to get a real brass ball valve into the lines (might as well do both hot and cold if possible), that would be best IMO. But you have to take the discharge from a ball valve and dump it below. You also need access to operate the valves from above if possible.

Too many variables to guess on the best solution. If you can post some photos after you gain access (either from inside, or from below) that would ensure better feedback here.

Possible ball valve:

https://www.amazon.com/Smith-Cooper-...lve+brass+ball

They come in all shapes and sizes. If possible I would avoid the plastic valves which AS supplies as OEM low-point drains.

Good luck!

Peter