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gypsydad · 11-01-2018, 10:20 AM

[QUOTE=guncase;2174800]I imagine your '77 came with 7.00-15 bias ply tires like my '75 overlander. If your trailer still has original wheels, they are 7" x 5" and are a little narrow for modern radial tires. The good news is, bias ply 7.00-15's are readily available in 6, 8, & 10 ply. Bad news is, they are all made in China. I have experienced a blowout with a 6 ply, so I just replaced the set with 8 ply. More good news is that when a bias tire has a blowout, it does much less damage than a radial, as there is not a bunch of steel belting flying around tearing up your wheel well. A few rivets to reattach the wheel well molding and mine was good to go. The 7.00-15 tires are narrow and tall and will give the proper ride height and look in the 70's wheel wells. I suggest 10 ply for a 31' trailer, and they are the most common. Your local tire store probably stocks a set.[/QUOTE

Good luck with your Maxxis..I had blow out after about a year with my Casita few years back..many folks reported issues with Maxxis back then...hope they are better tires now....still made in China, I believe...like the GY Marathons were...

ITSNO60 · 11-01-2018, 05:41 PM

Something interesting I discovered while looking at the load and inflation tables, it looks like a tire does not actually reach it's load range rating letter until it is inflated to it's max pressure. Makes sense but also make me wonder if the trailer calls for a lower PSI and a lower load range tire is there any real advantage to buying a higher load range and running it at the pressure recommended on the trailer sticker?

CapriRacer · 11-02-2018, 07:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ITSNO60

....... Make(s) me wonder if the trailer calls for a lower PSI and a lower load range tire is there any real advantage to buying a higher load range and running it at the pressure recommended on the trailer sticker?

Not by itself. The load carrying capacity of a tire with the higher load range is the same for all pressures.

HOWEVER, if you run a higher pressure, you do get more load carrying capacity and, therefore, less risk of failure.

ITSNO60 · 11-02-2018, 07:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CapriRacer

Not by itself. The load carrying capacity of a tire with the higher load range is the same for all pressures.

HOWEVER, if you run a higher pressure, you do get more load carrying capacity and, therefore, less risk of failure.

Thanks, I think I understand. I forgot to attach the table to my last post to show what I was talking about.

crispyboy · 11-02-2018, 07:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Satchien

I guess the main thing I wonder is:

Can we buy 8 ply (as in Class D load capacity)
Or do we absolutely need class E (10 ply)?

Class E’s seem harder to find and way pricier. Old tires we are removing are class D.

We will tow this sucker 1000 mikes then park it.

If your going to make this one tow and not use the trailer on the highway anymore then I would just go to Walmart and get some Carlisle tires which would be much cheaper than the Good Year Endurance.
If you plan on traveling in the near future past the initial trip then just put the Good Years on now to get the better tire. I think it's a whole different ballgame if your going to have this trailer on the highway frequently vs just sitting in one spot for long periods of time.
You can look at a tire pressure chart but with the trailer you are running just put in 60-65 psi whether it is a D or E rated tire and call it a day.

Bill M. · 11-02-2018, 08:27 AM

Certainly you can run 8 ply, class D tires pm that Airstream. Even if you pull it a lot. Most Airstreamers do. The only reason for going to E tires is if you can not carry enough load with the. Which is certainly not the case for that trailer. Lood at the Good year Endurance in the 15" class D and is, I think, a 205 width tire. It should match what Airstream put on in 1977 pretty good. I would not buy most load range D ST tires but would take the chance on the Goodyear Endurance They have been out a while and nobody really has posted anything negative. My trailer came from the factory with Load Range C tires in 1988. I am not sure why it supposedly takes larger tires and 80 lbs pressure to hold it up now.

If you are only going to tow it 1000 miles and park it then there is no real point in having a tire discussion. Maybe some good used tires? Stop every 100 miles for a few times and check them, You will need to keep tabs on the bearings and brakes anyway. If the plan is to work on it for a couple of years and then get it back on the road you would probably be better served with a set of cheap junk tires now and then buy new when it is ready to go.

Big_T · 11-05-2018, 06:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gypsydad

Why are you running with such a high pressure? Initially, I had rivets and screws come loose when the dealer installed my new Endurance tires and filled to 70psi...after reading several posts here on the Forum with the Goodyear inflation chart included, I found I should have been around 40-50PSI; I lowered to that PSI and have not had anymore issues. TPMS system shows temps consistent also...psi raises about 5-10psi when warmed up. No issues with rivets or screws since I did this, 5k miles ago...MT to TX last month.

The info you shared about the ride damage created with higher tire pressure is something for everyone to think about and consider. I will pay closer attention to the pressure variations from now on. Thanks for sharing.

**Action** · 11-08-2018, 08:25 PM

Tire pressure is a Goldilocks thing. Both too much and too little are not a good thing. Has to be just right for the best results!

>>>>>>>>>>>>Action

Mollysdad · 11-08-2018, 10:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gypsydad

Why are you running with such a high pressure?

High?
Half of the so called "experts" here say to run at 80 psi.!

I consulted the inflation charts, then balanced that with opinion and common sense. Stirred it up and threw it all away and did what I thought best.

I also have a TV that rides softer than a F-250 4x4.
I've never seen a popped rivet.

J. Morgan · 11-08-2018, 10:48 PM

My C rated Cooper tires are rated at 2,000 pounds each at a bit over a hundred bucks apiece. That will cover it with room to spare.

I had been running 700-15s at about double the price but my new LT radials do ride smoother no doubt. (I’ve had them on for a few thousand miles now)

Unless I have problems I’m sticking to this formula.

gypsydad · 11-09-2018, 02:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mollysdad

High?
Half of the so called "experts" here say to run at 80 psi.!

I consulted the inflation charts, then balanced that with opinion and common sense. Stirred it up and threw it all away and did what I thought best.

I also have a TV that rides softer than a F-250 4x4.
I've never seen a popped rivet.

No; the "experts" here who are talking about GY Endurance, say to run with the recommended pressure from Goodyear chart for the weights the tires are carrying based on your scaled AS weights- for me, that's between 45-50psi...it's the "other" folks that likely are not running Endurance, (perhaps Michelin LT tires??), that are giving the bad advice to ignore the charts and fill to max pressure.....just saying not good idea...

I also ran my Michelin LT tires at 70PSI, but they were LT tires; not ST tires..different tires totally in the sidewalls construction vs an 8 or 10 ply ST tire. I've had popped rivets from time to time in my earlier AS's, and a loos screw also...(some say I may still have one of those) But, what do I know...i'm just a humble contributor here like you...