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11-25-2010, 10:19 AM
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#1
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3 Rivet Member
1965 28' Ambassador
Malta
, New York
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 100
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Tires, Jacks, and Snow coming - 2 part question
I'm getting ready to move my trailer for the winter. Would like to put new tires on it before I move it. They are cracked and ready to go...much is written on these threads about correct tires and correct jacks....looking for some advice
1) current tires - are Firestone 7.00 - 15LT rated for 2040 lbs each tire. I see a brand new spare that came with trailer is T236 7.0 - 15ST brand is highway master. Looking for advice on whether I can buy similar tires at a local Walmart tire shop.
2) Jacks- looking for suggestion on Jack type or brand to best handle lifting the trailer to remove each wheel as I have replace them one at a time. plan to paint each rim as I remove them too (before new rubber is on them). I've looked around online.
What do you think???? thanks
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11-25-2010, 10:27 AM
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#2
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Rivet Master
Airstream Dealer
Corona
, California
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 16,497
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Airstreamdmb
I'm getting ready to move my trailer for the winter. Would like to put new tires on it before I move it. They are cracked and ready to go...much is written on these threads about correct tires and correct jacks....looking for some advice
1) current tires - are Firestone 7.00 - 15LT rated for 2040 lbs each tire. I see a brand new spare that came with trailer is T236 7.0 - 15ST brand is highway master. Looking for advice on whether I can buy similar tires at a local Walmart tire shop.
2) Jacks- looking for suggestion on Jack type or brand to best handle lifting the trailer to remove each wheel as I have replace them one at a time. plan to paint each rim as I remove them too (before new rubber is on them). I've looked around online.
What do you think???? thanks
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You don't need any jacks.
Pull one wheel up on some 2 X 6's and the other wheel will be off the ground.
Since you have a 65, that would also be a good time to check out the axles.
Also, that furnace was made by International Oil Burner company. Replace it as it's famous for exploding when trying to fire it up.
Andy
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11-25-2010, 10:35 AM
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#3
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x
XXXX
, XXXX
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,601
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Stephen The most common tire on a/s is goodyear marathons. Many people don't like them and much is written about tire failures. I use Yokohama LT215. Look for a tire that has at least 2500 lb rating. Something 215x75R15.
If you want to remove one tire at atime and repaint the rim. Simply drive the trailer up on a ramp about 8 " high only on the front two tires. Block and secure the trailer from rolling and remove the rear two tires. Repaint rims replace tires reinstall and reverse the process by backing the trailer on the two rear tires and do the front pair. If you want to jack up the trialer only jack on the axle plate that is welded to the frame. DO NOT jack under the axle tube or you will bend and damage the axle rubbers.
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11-25-2010, 10:46 AM
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#4
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Rivet Master
1967 22' Safari
MILAN
, Illinois
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,013
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Tires and Jack/Wheels
Hey, First of all since you have tandem axles tire removal will be a breeze! Set up some flat stock or ramps in front of the forward set of tires on both sides. Pull the trailer forward just far enough to get the front tires on the highest spot on flat stock or ramps. The trailing (rear) tires on both sides will come off the ground far enough to allow you to remove them. NO NEED TO JACK UP THE TRAILER!!!!! Great News, right? Make sure you loosen the lug nuts a little on the rear wheels before you pull the tires off the ground. Then once you have the rims painted and new tires mounted just back the trailer off the ramps and use the same technique to back up onto the ramps and remove the forward (front) two tires. Easy, Pleasey, Lemon Squeezey!
The new tires on the trailer all should match for brand and tread pattern. Spare tire is not that important to have a match. A good quality Light Truck tire is acceptable. Load range C or D. You will find radials in use but common wisdom says sidewalls that flex are not a good thing on heavy trailers.... (think sway control). If you wish to purchase a jack the use of hydralic bottle jacks betwwen the dual axles appears to be the most used for type and position. I have used a floor jack to raise my trailer but placement is very important. You don't want to bend frame members. This should get you started but I am sure others will help if you have more questions. Happy Trails, Ed
__________________
1967 Safari Twin "Landshark" w/International trim package
2014 GMC Sierra 1500 Double Cab SLE
FORUMS MEMBER SINCE 12/16/2004AIR#7110
"My tire was thumping, I thought it was flat. When I looked at the tire, I noticed your CAT!" Burma Shave
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11-25-2010, 10:50 AM
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#5
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Rivet Master
1967 22' Safari
MILAN
, Illinois
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,013
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Rims
Almost forgot.... I had my rims powder coated and they seem to be holding up to the weather just fine! Ed
__________________
1967 Safari Twin "Landshark" w/International trim package
2014 GMC Sierra 1500 Double Cab SLE
FORUMS MEMBER SINCE 12/16/2004AIR#7110
"My tire was thumping, I thought it was flat. When I looked at the tire, I noticed your CAT!" Burma Shave
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11-25-2010, 01:31 PM
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#6
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3 Rivet Member
1965 28' Ambassador
Malta
, New York
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In
You don't need any jacks.
Pull one wheel up on some 2 X 6's and the other wheel will be off the ground.
Since you have a 65, that would also be a good time to check out the axles.
Also, that furnace was made by International Oil Burner company. Replace it as it's famous for exploding when trying to fire it up.
Andy
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Andy thanks for the suggestion. I had to laugh because I was thinking of doing that with the boards and having the one wheel off the ground. Then I said to myself well it can't be that easy and it probably wouldn't work. I abandoned the idea instead to seek out the jack idea. Thanks for making my day. anything specific to the tires themselves that I should be aware of?? I did already get rid of the furnace. Still need to remove the old water heater though. Still trying to figure out if I can use the original Armstrong A/C unit.
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11-25-2010, 01:38 PM
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#7
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3 Rivet Member
1965 28' Ambassador
Malta
, New York
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wasagachris
Stephen The most common tire on a/s is goodyear marathons. Many people don't like them and much is written about tire failures. I use Yokohama LT215. Look for a tire that has at least 2500 lb rating. Something 215x75R15.
If you want to remove one tire at atime and repaint the rim. Simply drive the trailer up on a ramp about 8 " high only on the front two tires. Block and secure the trailer from rolling and remove the rear two tires. Repaint rims replace tires reinstall and reverse the process by backing the trailer on the two rear tires and do the front pair. If you want to jack up the trialer only jack on the axle plate that is welded to the frame. DO NOT jack under the axle tube or you will bend and damage the axle rubbers.
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I'll look into those tires and take your advice. Steph
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11-25-2010, 03:05 PM
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#8
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3 Rivet Member
1965 28' Ambassador
Malta
, New York
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In
You don't need any jacks.
Pull one wheel up on some 2 X 6's and the other wheel will be off the ground.
Since you have a 65, that would also be a good time to check out the axles.
Also, that furnace was made by International Oil Burner company. Replace it as it's famous for exploding when trying to fire it up.
Andy
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How much would it be for Axles including shipping costs?
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11-25-2010, 03:06 PM
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#9
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Rivet Master
Airstream Dealer
Corona
, California
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 16,497
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Airstreamdmb
Andy thanks for the suggestion. I had to laugh because I was thinking of doing that with the boards and having the one wheel off the ground. Then I said to myself well it can't be that easy and it probably wouldn't work. I abandoned the idea instead to seek out the jack idea. Thanks for making my day. anything specific to the tires themselves that I should be aware of?? I did already get rid of the furnace. Still need to remove the old water heater though. Still trying to figure out if I can use the original Armstrong A/C unit.
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If your going to go with "D" tires, you will have to replace the wheels.
The original AC still can be repaired, when necessary. But, if it needs a compressor, then the party's over.
The original Armstrong TAC-110 AC that you have, uses R-22 Freon, that's still available. The fan motor , relay's and condensers are all available from W. W. Grainger.
But, your AC is rated at 10,000 btu, which at the time, was tops. Depending on where you wish to travel, you will find that your AC is on the short side, when it gets real hot outside.
Andy
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11-25-2010, 07:35 PM
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#10
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3 Rivet Member
1965 28' Ambassador
Malta
, New York
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In
If your going to go with "D" tires, you will have to replace the wheels.
Andy
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What are "D" tires???
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11-25-2010, 07:42 PM
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#11
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x
XXXX
, XXXX
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,601
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Stephen D tires refers to the load range and corresponds to the number of plys in the sidewall. A D range tire has 8 plys and a E range tire has 10 plys.
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11-26-2010, 06:47 PM
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#12
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3 Rivet Member
1965 28' Ambassador
Malta
, New York
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wasagachris
Stephen The most common tire on a/s is goodyear marathons. Many people don't like them and much is written about tire failures. I use Yokohama LT215. Look for a tire that has at least 2500 lb rating. Something 215x75R15.
If you want to remove one tire at atime and repaint the rim. Simply drive the trailer up on a ramp about 8 " high only on the front two tires. Block and secure the trailer from rolling and remove the rear two tires. Repaint rims replace tires reinstall and reverse the process by backing the trailer on the two rear tires and do the front pair. If you want to jack up the trialer only jack on the axle plate that is welded to the frame. DO NOT jack under the axle tube or you will bend and damage the axle rubbers.
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Chris;
I'm thinking of buying the 15" rims shown (six hole) as well as the hub cap covers. My son really likes the look of those. Just want to verify these will work with the tires you mentioned. I'm not sure I understand the "D" tires Andy mentioned in his post.
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11-26-2010, 06:50 PM
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#13
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3 Rivet Member
1965 28' Ambassador
Malta
, New York
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 100
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photo of 15" rims and hubcap
I forgot to include the link in my previous post.
Wheels & Hubcaps
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11-26-2010, 06:58 PM
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#14
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Rivet Master
Airstream Dealer
Corona
, California
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 16,497
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Airstreamdmb
Chris;
I'm thinking of buying the 15" rims shown (six hole) as well as the hub cap covers. My son really likes the look of those. Just want to verify these will work with the tires you mentioned. I'm not sure I understand the "D" tires Andy mentioned in his post.
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Tire ratings changed from numbers to letters.
4 ply tires are load range B
6 ply tires are load range C
8 ply tires are load range D
10 ply tires are load range E
And so on.
Andy
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11-27-2010, 08:28 AM
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#16
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3 Rivet Member
1965 28' Ambassador
Malta
, New York
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 100
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I'm sold
Quote:
Originally Posted by wasagachris
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All I can say is wow!!! these are beautiful!!! I'm going with these instead. Will they carry the tires you recommended in your previous post? I'll have them mount and ship everything.
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11-27-2010, 08:46 AM
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#17
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x
XXXX
, XXXX
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,601
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Stephen I was just looking at their site. That rim plus Goodyear Marathon tire,chrome center hub, lug nuts, valve stem and balancing $200 each wheel.
Rim $85
tire $100
hub $3.50
nuts$3.50
valve stem $2.00
Balance $6.00
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11-27-2010, 05:39 PM
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#18
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3 Rivet Member
1965 28' Ambassador
Malta
, New York
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 100
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Goodyear Marathon??
Quote:
Originally Posted by wasagachris
Stephen I was just looking at their site. That rim plus Goodyear Marathon tire,chrome center hub, lug nuts, valve stem and balancing $200 each wheel.
Rim $85
tire $100
hub $3.50
nuts$3.50
valve stem $2.00
Balance $6.00
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Chris; thanks for researching this on their site. I didn't think you were a fan of Marathon tires since you had mentioned the other brand in your post. Is this the setup you are also going with yourself? Can you send me a link of the correct tires on their site too. I see several listed there for Marathon. Any other details too as far as hub,nuts,valve stem, etc. thanks. I'm thinking I will keep the old tires and rims I currently have and slap these on each fall for storage and bring the good rims and tires inside out of weather and away from UV rays for protecting the rubber over the winters. Thanks
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12-04-2010, 09:17 AM
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#20
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3 Rivet Member
1965 28' Ambassador
Malta
, New York
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wasagachris
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thanks Chris; my two son's are voting for th original retro look with the black rims and moon covers instead of the newer modern look. Anyone looking to cast a vote please chime in with a posting or two. I do want my kids involved with my restoration/renovation project too, so I'm leaning to following their request. We will be doing the new axles and new rims in the Spring.
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