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Old 07-11-2011, 01:17 PM   #15
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I would prefer not to travel with vents open for obvious "wind shearing" issues, so I think we are going to stick with our current plan (at least until retirement time when we can head for higher elevations and cooler latitudes) of not camping in the Southwest in July and August and only in September if we get unlikely seasonal cooling. Still gives us a good 6-7 months of camping.
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Old 07-11-2011, 01:35 PM   #16
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This became apparent on last years California trip.

Ours cools down a lot faster if the thermo is set on auto and temp at 60.

45 min later usually re-set to 72.

Seems to take forever if you just turn fan on high and set the temp at 72.
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Old 07-11-2011, 01:42 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by withidl View Post
In my 2001 ASCL 31' I have to accurately direct the vents to blow the dense cool air high and down the hall into the bedroom. If I want the bedroom to be cool during the heat of the day I also close off one of the living room vents to direct greater air flow to the rear. Also, I use a 12 volt “Fantastic” table/floor fan to increase circulation of the dry air the A/C creates and find the setup quite comfortable.

Additionally, while servicing the A/C filters I discovered two problems with the OEM installation:

· The A/C venting of cool air was somewhat mixing with the warm air being drawn in through the filters due to gaps in the installation (quality of OEM installation). I used some aluminum duct tape to seal the gaps.
· The foam backed vinyl ceiling material (on the Classic Limited) which is pressed down by the A/C cover had much excess that was hanging down inside the cover where the rear air was venting and was obstructing the air flow from those vents (quality of OEM installation). I corrected this by cutting back the excess vinyl.
This brings up some more potential help. I cannot seem to recall how to bring other threads into this post. (help me with that and I'll point you to the projects) Jammer had a post about "getting more heat to the rear bedroom" That thread covers additional ductwork to the rear. In addition I added to that project a manual, variable furnace blower control. It was done to move more HEAT to the rear, BUT, I have found that it works for distributing A/C more evenly throughout the trailer too. Basically I manually turn on the furnace blower about 1/2 speed (quieter that way). It draws cool floor level air from the Kitchen area and distributes it forward and to the rear. With the extra duct to the BR and one shut off in the LR, I get a lot more cooling in the BR. Seems to help a lot.
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Old 07-11-2011, 01:51 PM   #18
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A/c -

I find the A/C to be inadequate as well and I have a 20' Bambi. Certainly restricts the travel option in warmer temps.
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Old 07-11-2011, 02:00 PM   #19
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http://www.airforums.com/forums/f427...ack-71852.html

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f427...ase-74624.html

Here are the two links....I think I did it right????
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Old 07-11-2011, 02:01 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dznf0g View Post
This brings up some more potential help. I cannot seem to recall how to bring other threads into this post. (help me with that and I'll point you to the projects) Jammer had a post about "getting more heat to the rear bedroom" That thread covers additional ductwork to the rear. In addition I added to that project a manual, variable furnace blower control. It was done to move more HEAT to the rear, BUT, I have found that it works for distributing A/C more evenly throughout the trailer too. Basically I manually turn on the furnace blower about 1/2 speed (quieter that way). It draws cool floor level air from the Kitchen area and distributes it forward and to the rear. With the extra duct to the BR and one shut off in the LR, I get a lot more cooling in the BR. Seems to help a lot.
To bring thread into post find thread, block and copy the address field (Ctrl + C), then within your post click the "Insert Link" icon in the tools. This will open a small window where you can paste (Ctrl + V) the copied address. I believe you can also just paste the link into your post where you position your cursor without using the "Insert Link" tool.
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Old 07-11-2011, 02:16 PM   #21
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I now see I never reported in the previous post, the PWM controller which worked for this mod. This one has no buzz and controlles the blower smoothly.

Critical Velocity - 15 Amp High Frequency PWM Motor Speed Controller P/N: SPD-315
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Old 07-11-2011, 03:09 PM   #22
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With our Classic and the awnings out we are able to be comfortable into the 80's. When the temp gets into the 90's we turn on the AC.
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Old 07-11-2011, 03:49 PM   #23
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We have a 13,500 BTU AC on a 19 ft. trailer. Cooling has never been a problem. The test was in Perry, GA. With 102 degrees outside, with no shade, it cooled down to 70 degrees in about 30 minutes with fan on high. Usually just have to keep the fan on low to maintain the temp. I also retrofitted the rear window so a small 8,000 BTU window unit can be put in in a few minutes for those times when 30 AMP isn't available. It only uses 7 AMPS, is quieter, and cools nearly as well as the roof unit.
I like it cool.
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Old 07-11-2011, 04:22 PM   #24
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No one has mentioned the filters! On our first "hot" outing, we couldn't figure out why the air wasn't strong coming out of the a/c unit. Thats when we found the filters that were clogged....now we know! BTW, we carry an extra set now, as the first set was ripped a little.
We also have fitted the windows with those heavy silver reflectors, the skinny cheap ones just didn't do the job. We cut them to fit every window and vent/skylight. We keep them on until evening when it is cooler. Hey...whatever helps.
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Old 07-11-2011, 06:04 PM   #25
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We found that this works well: when you first turn on the A/C, run a Fantastic Fan on exhaust for about 5 minutes. This will clear out the hot air that's built up in the Airstream and floating near the ceiling.
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Old 07-11-2011, 06:24 PM   #26
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From your description, it sounds like you had the 'air shower' vent open. Try closing it and let the air blow through the front and rear vents. I think you'll find it works better overall. I also recommend running a fan in the trailer to keep the air circulating.
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Old 07-11-2011, 06:37 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fly at Night
...BTW, I also noticed the smaller vent on one side of my AC was not blasting out as much cold air as the other vents. Is this a defect, or is this the usual way they work. When I adjusted some of the other vents, more air would be directed out the under-performing vent, but it was still not that strong...
Thanks for your input.
There are a few variations, mostly model dependent that give us different outlet vents. I'm not sure what you mean by "smaller vent on one side". Mine has a pair of conjoined vents pointing aft and another pair pointing forward. When I look into the vents, I see a chimney of sorts where the cold air dumps into this plenum. One side of each vent is directly in line with the chimney and as a result more air flows from one half of the vent than the other. You wouldn't think that there would be that much resistance to impede the airflow to the other half of the vent so as to be noticeable, but there is. I suspect your side vent sees even more resistance, so by blocking some of the airflow from one it pushes it out the other. The designers have a square hole centered from side to side on the roof. They had to package a compressor, evaporator, condenser, and a blower into a symmetric form to sit on the roof with air return and discharge vents inside. Defect - No, Design compromise - Yes.
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Old 07-11-2011, 07:14 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dznf0g
...BTW, I would use a Maxx Air cover (or similar brand) if you're going to leave vents open during travel.
I've used the Maxx Air covers on my current a previous trailers. The primary goal was to allow ventilation while in storage and to use the roof vents when it's raining. When on the road when it's 100 the interior will be about 105-110 with the vents open. When closed it pushes 130 or better, but the wife fusses about the dust. Isn't that why they make Swiffers? :-)

I agree, turning a Fantastic Fan on high for a few minutes with both vents open while the A/C is coming up to speed helps move some of the hottest air out. The real issue is that the heat has soaked into the cabinets, cushions, and everything else. It's not just a matter of displacing hot air with cool, but also pulling the stored heat out of the woodwork.

This past weekend we traveled over 200 miles to our destination and it was 109 when we arrived. 1st priority, plugin and get the A/C running, then unhook, go to Walmart and then find a restaurant to have dinner. That occupied a couple of hours and the Sun was close to setting so when we got back, the trailer was tolerable and getting better. Not long after, the compressor was able to cycle off and on as needed and it was starting to feel almost chilly. The following days were continued scorchers but since the A/C had a head start and the interior was no longer a radiator, it ran full time during the day, but it was only fighting the new heat and not the stored heat.
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