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dznf0g · 07-11-2011, 01:16 PM

I now see I never reported in the previous post, the PWM controller which worked for this mod. This one has no buzz and controlles the blower smoothly.

Critical Velocity - 15 Amp High Frequency PWM Motor Speed Controller P/N: SPD-315

nswhite · 07-11-2011, 02:09 PM

With our Classic and the awnings out we are able to be comfortable into the 80's. When the temp gets into the 90's we turn on the AC.

SilverRanger · 07-11-2011, 02:49 PM

We have a 13,500 BTU AC on a 19 ft. trailer. Cooling has never been a problem. The test was in Perry, GA. With 102 degrees outside, with no shade, it cooled down to 70 degrees in about 30 minutes with fan on high. Usually just have to keep the fan on low to maintain the temp. I also retrofitted the rear window so a small 8,000 BTU window unit can be put in in a few minutes for those times when 30 AMP isn't available. It only uses 7 AMPS, is quieter, and cools nearly as well as the roof unit.
I like it cool.

kidsgone · 07-11-2011, 03:22 PM

No one has mentioned the filters! On our first "hot" outing, we couldn't figure out why the air wasn't strong coming out of the a/c unit. Thats when we found the filters that were clogged....now we know! BTW, we carry an extra set now, as the first set was ripped a little.
We also have fitted the windows with those heavy silver reflectors, the skinny cheap ones just didn't do the job. We cut them to fit every window and vent/skylight. We keep them on until evening when it is cooler. Hey...whatever helps.

wnew1130 · 07-11-2011, 05:04 PM

We found that this works well: when you first turn on the A/C, run a Fantastic Fan on exhaust for about 5 minutes. This will clear out the hot air that's built up in the Airstream and floating near the ceiling.

cosmotini · 07-11-2011, 05:24 PM

From your description, it sounds like you had the 'air shower' vent open. Try closing it and let the air blow through the front and rear vents. I think you'll find it works better overall. I also recommend running a fan in the trailer to keep the air circulating.

Silver Goose · 07-11-2011, 05:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fly at Night

...BTW, I also noticed the smaller vent on one side of my AC was not blasting out as much cold air as the other vents. Is this a defect, or is this the usual way they work. When I adjusted some of the other vents, more air would be directed out the under-performing vent, but it was still not that strong...
Thanks for your input.

There are a few variations, mostly model dependent that give us different outlet vents. I'm not sure what you mean by "smaller vent on one side". Mine has a pair of conjoined vents pointing aft and another pair pointing forward. When I look into the vents, I see a chimney of sorts where the cold air dumps into this plenum. One side of each vent is directly in line with the chimney and as a result more air flows from one half of the vent than the other. You wouldn't think that there would be that much resistance to impede the airflow to the other half of the vent so as to be noticeable, but there is. I suspect your side vent sees even more resistance, so by blocking some of the airflow from one it pushes it out the other. The designers have a square hole centered from side to side on the roof. They had to package a compressor, evaporator, condenser, and a blower into a symmetric form to sit on the roof with air return and discharge vents inside. Defect - No, Design compromise - Yes.

Silver Goose · 07-11-2011, 06:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dznf0g

...BTW, I would use a Maxx Air cover (or similar brand) if you're going to leave vents open during travel.

I've used the Maxx Air covers on my current a previous trailers. The primary goal was to allow ventilation while in storage and to use the roof vents when it's raining. When on the road when it's 100 the interior will be about 105-110 with the vents open. When closed it pushes 130 or better, but the wife fusses about the dust. Isn't that why they make Swiffers? :-)

I agree, turning a Fantastic Fan on high for a few minutes with both vents open while the A/C is coming up to speed helps move some of the hottest air out. The real issue is that the heat has soaked into the cabinets, cushions, and everything else. It's not just a matter of displacing hot air with cool, but also pulling the stored heat out of the woodwork.

This past weekend we traveled over 200 miles to our destination and it was 109 when we arrived. 1st priority, plugin and get the A/C running, then unhook, go to Walmart and then find a restaurant to have dinner. That occupied a couple of hours and the Sun was close to setting so when we got back, the trailer was tolerable and getting better. Not long after, the compressor was able to cycle off and on as needed and it was starting to feel almost chilly. The following days were continued scorchers but since the A/C had a head start and the interior was no longer a radiator, it ran full time during the day, but it was only fighting the new heat and not the stored heat.

Silver Goose · 07-11-2011, 06:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by withidl

...Additionally, while servicing the A/C filters I discovered two problems with the OEM installation:
· The A/C venting of cool air was somewhat mixing with the warm air being drawn in through the filters due to gaps in the installation (quality of OEM installation). I used some aluminum duct tape to seal the gaps.
· The foam backed vinyl ceiling material (on the Classic Limited) which is pressed down by the A/C cover had much excess that was hanging down inside the cover where the rear air was venting and was obstructing the air flow from those vents (quality of OEM installation). I corrected this by cutting back the excess vinyl.

I noticed the same thing this weekend with the excess vinyl partially obstructing air flow. I plan to trim the excess also, and will look to see if I have the same gaps you described. Good points!

Gene · 07-11-2011, 07:08 PM

No, it is not. We have panos on each end and that makes a big difference. We put Reflectix on all the bedroom windows and that helps a bit. We also use it on the skylight and fans when they are not in use. We keep the curtains and blinds closed too. But the insulation doesn't do much and the A/C unit is not big enough.

The awning helps, but you can't leave it because a windstorm might come along and it is not a very good idea to drive with it out either.

Driving in 100˚ temps turns the trailer into a furnace. Cars have had flow through ventilation for decades, but Airstream has not thought about that. The vents would probably leak anyway. It would help keep some of the heat down when traveling.

We try to stay away from hot places in summer, but that is not always possible. We'll be going to Pueblo, Colo., tomorrow where it is supposed to be in the mid-90's and the A/C will be running constantly.

Bob, thanks for the tip about setting the thermostat at 60˚ to get more out of the A/C. We'll try that tomorrow.

Gene

AirsDream · 07-11-2011, 07:21 PM

Re dust intrusion: I was at the Fantastic Vent factory a couple of weeks ago and this topic came up. Their head tech suggested that on dirt and gravel roads, which are typically traversed at realtively low speed, one ought to turn on the Fantastic Vent blowing IN, but with all windows closed ... that way, the fan takes relatively "clean" air from up top of the trailer and uses it to pressurize the trailer, significantly reducing dust infiltration from lower down. Haven't tried it yet, but this makes sense. I suspect that at higher speeds, the low pressure area aft the open vent flap would compete with the fan, reducing inflow a lot, and so this regime wouldn't work as well.

On hot travel days, I just leave the rear vent (it's covered with a Maxxair Vent cover) fully open, and it seems to remove a lot of the heat - the interior is typically about on a par with the outside temp, within three or four degrees when I stop. A lot of comfort is just moving air ... when I hit a rest stop, with the Fantastic Vent blowing IN on me and a Fantastic Fan also blowing at me as I nap or eat lunch, etc., I can be comfortable in temps of up to about 95 without A.C. But if I have to work or get out of the airflow, then I start to melt and want shore power and A.C.!!

lylesgl · 07-11-2011, 08:17 PM

My first Airstream was a 2005 25' Safari with the vinyl ceiling and fabric lined walls and an 11,000 BTU a/c. It seemed to cool better than my current 2007, 27FB Safari SE, that sports the 15,000BTU a/c. I think it has to do with the 27FB having the interior aluminum walls; the 25' safari with the fabric lined walls and vinyl ceiling most likely had a better "R" factor.

ncbambi · 07-11-2011, 08:19 PM

Just got back from a 1.5 month journey with the final week and a half in 100 degree weather. Just like others, I have pana windows on both ends, and have not only put reflective automotive sunscreens, but also replaced the AS curtains with blackout lined curtains. This has dramatically reduced the heat factor.

Also went to Walmart and invested in the little fans that I could clip on to the bathroom door to direct air to the front bedroom or other areas that require more air. At the hottest period of day the front of the trailer would get a little warmer, I just turned on the fan, and adjusted the end grill of the AC pointed down a notch on the opposite end. This directed more air to the front that needed the most ventilation and it worked great. Trailer was comfortable and sleeping was equally so.

The worst part was dealing with over 300 other campers at this campground that were running every appliance they could and kept blowing the main breakers. After they figured out they were creating the problem, the power was more reliable. However, they all figured they needed to have a raging fire going outside each of their trailers - then all went inside to stay cool

Still can't figure out this one, and choked on the smoke being sucked in through the vents, but luckily that was brief.

Happy camping for the rest of the Summer!

Nan

Silver Goose · 07-11-2011, 10:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AirsDream

... one ought to turn on the Fantastic Vent blowing IN...

Has Fantastic Fan changed something? My old trailer had Fantastic Fans with a 3 position switch: In-Off-Out. Those that came installed on my '08 Classic have a simple On-Off switch; they only blow out.

wkerfoot · 07-11-2011, 10:32 PM

According to the Fantastic Fan site, all units are three speed: FanTastic Vent - Products

Bill

Quote:

Originally Posted by YankeeDoodle

Has Fantastic Fan changed something? My old trailer had Fantastic Fans with a 3 position switch: In-Off-Out. Those that came installed on my '08 Classic have a simple On-Off switch; they only blow out.

richinny · 07-12-2011, 05:51 AM

i believe 'code' now requires factory installed fans to only blow out. if you call Fan-tastic they can help you.

ROBERT CROSS · 07-12-2011, 06:03 AM

Gene,

Remember also that the lower the fan speed the colder the air will be out the vents. Thats where the aux fan comes comes in handy, once the interior has cooled down it can spread that cool air around.

Did a little test yesterday. Interior temp was 94. Turned on AC set at 60/Auto, was down to 74 within 45 min.
After 1 1/2 hr set thermo to 69, int temp stays at 72 with AC cycling normally and fan running at the lower speed. Still on, will check it several times today.

POI....(you know about this), humidity 74%

FF Model 8000 3 speed, out only.

Bob

Goal15 · 07-12-2011, 08:37 AM

So Bob? In my 2006 Safari 23, I have a thermostat above the lav sink. My AC unit in the ceiling has high med and lo cool on one set of controls (as well as what appears to be fan only settings) and on the other set it has dial for cooler or warmer.

Is my thermostat on the wall connected to the AC unit also, or do I just have manual controls? For some reason I thought probably the thermostat was only for the furnace, a place where I haven't had occasion to go yet given the record temperatures we have had here pretty much ever since we got the AS in April.

Gene · 07-12-2011, 08:53 AM

Our fans only exhaust. Fantastic Fan will send you a 3 way switch if you call them. You need to have the model number.

Gene

mimiandrews · 07-12-2011, 09:01 AM

We driveway camped in our '66 model 22ft Safari for four days during the weekend of the 4th as our house air conditioner had failed. The trailer stayed in the 20C (68F) area at night and rose to around 23C (73F) during the 100 to 102 degree afternoons. Carrier Low Profile 15,000 BTU was set to Low Cool all this time, and the thermostat switch was not all the way toward Low.

Our choice of the 15,000 BTU unit on a small trailer was intended for just these conditions, and it performed well IMO.