Maybe I just should have replaced it but I didn't. Works fine on 110. But won't stay lit on gas.
Fix #1 Got it back from the RV service guy after seeing it run on the bench, but didn't when I got it home so...........
Fix #2 (Boy was I proud of myself) Replaced the thermocouple and it ran great. I let it run for the weekend. OK all weekend. I just went out to try relighting it and same old same old. The burner will light but as soon as I let go of the lighting gas valve lighting knob the burner goes out.
I'm desperate for suggestions. Should I drop $125 or so into a new safety valve or just replace the whole fridge new and drop a grand. It's at least a half a day's work just to get the bugger in and out, but I think I can trim that down having already done it twice HELP
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Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain- WoZ
I have had that problem with mine at times also . Two things I've tried that seem to work . 1- if I start on elec. first , it is usually easier to start and keep going on propane . 2- I put a small aligator clip on the pull-out knob when lighting on propane and let it run for a while , when I pull the clip it stays running. Guess it takes a bit to warm up the thermocoupler .
I'll try the alligator clip deal. In fact I'm thinking of going a step farther at least to get through my fast approaching road trip.
Given that the burner flame is pretty small and vented to the outside, I'm thinking about running the fridge with the knob proped open to keep the burner lit if I can't keep it running any other way. I've been meaning to install a CO2 and gas alarm anyway.
I'm not that worried about being lit while towing. During the day should not be a big deal either. At night when everyone is asleep may be another thing, but I can get it good and cold and shut down till morning. I'm guessing I will be able to run 110 about half the time anyway.
Do you think I have a death wish?
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Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain- WoZ
As long as there is a flame it shouldn't be a problem , what you don't want is a build up of gas and then a flame . Also , if you keep the knob pulled all the time I think you are in effect by-passing the thermostat and will freeze the contents of the frig.. I think you will find that it stays lit after a few minutes , give it a try.
I'll try the alligator clip deal. In fact I'm thinking of going a step farther at least to get through my fast approaching road trip.
Given that the burner flame is pretty small and vented to the outside, I'm thinking about running the fridge with the knob proped open to keep the burner lit if I can't keep it running any other way. I've been meaning to install a CO2 and gas alarm anyway.
I'm not that worried about being lit while towing. During the day should not be a big deal either. At night when everyone is asleep may be another thing, but I can get it good and cold and shut down till morning. I'm guessing I will be able to run 110 about half the time anyway.
Do you think I have a death wish?
I think that keeping the lever pulled is a very bad idea. If the flame blows out the propane will continue to flow. Propane is heavier then air so it will fill the frig area and then flow out on to the ground. One spark and your trailer explodes into a ball of flames. No detectors will help since ths area is sealed from the inside of your trailer. I think this is a very bad idea.
I once paid an RV tech to fix the one in my Trade Wind while I was in Ft. Lauderdale. The burner was dirty. He apologized for charging me at all, but he had logged a service call. The flame can be too low.
Marshall , the magnetic shut-off is the safety valve that shuts off the gas supply if there is no flame . The magnet is inside this valve. When you pull the knob in front at start up you are temporarily by-passing this device until the thermocoupler heats up . That is why it is not a good idea to to clip it open indefinately . The termocoupler should be well into the flame . If you have a service manual there is a pretty good explaination and some diagrams . If not , send your email and I will try to copy for you .
I tried the alligator clip and chaging the thermostat setting. No luck. I will check into the price of a new safety valve tomorrow. But I'm starting to think new fridge. Is putting a new one in just a matter of bolting it to the floor and hooking up the gas and electric lines? Any recommendations on what will fit in a 71 Tradewind? I fouind out this weekend any way the door is tweaked. Sour Grapes
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Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain- WoZ
Here is a link to a replacement chart: Dometic - Conversion Chart
You will most likely not find an exact size replacement. Another good reason to keep the original as long as you can.
You will most likely not find an exact size replacement. Another good reason to keep the original as long as you can.
Thanks, I didn't give that much thought. I checked out the new Dometics and Norcolds and they are either too big, which would require redoing the counter and cabinet above. or a about 6" too short. That kind of changes my perspective.
Today I blew out the burner, disconnected the new thermocouple from the safety valve and blew that out. No luck. Tomorrow I will check on finding a new safety valve. I should be able to get that out without pulling the fridge again.
Does anyone know if I can put dry ice in the freezer (to temporarily maintain cold) if 110 is not avalable will damage anything?
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Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain- WoZ
I hate to give my simple advice, but, I have had problems with the burner/pilot light not staying lit and it was just some dirt/carbon on the thermocouple which insulted it from the heat of the flame. Cleaned it off and fixed. Tools required: long small screwdriver, flashlight.
mel
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