I fixed it x2 (NOT) HELP Dometic RM60

[Lumatic]

Maybe I just should have replaced it but I didn't. Works fine on 110. But won't stay lit on gas.
Fix #1 Got it back from the RV service guy after seeing it run on the bench, but didn't when I got it home so...........
Fix #2 (Boy was I proud of myself) Replaced the thermocouple and it ran great. I let it run for the weekend. OK all weekend. I just went out to try relighting it and same old same old. The burner will light but as soon as I let go of the lighting gas valve lighting knob the burner goes out.

I'm desperate for suggestions. Should I drop $125 or so into a new safety valve or just replace the whole fridge new and drop a grand. It's at least a half a day's work just to get the bugger in and out, but I think I can trim that down having already done it twice HELP

[ticki2]

I have had that problem with mine at times also . Two things I've tried that seem to work . 1- if I start on elec. first , it is usually easier to start and keep going on propane . 2- I put a small aligator clip on the pull-out knob when lighting on propane and let it run for a while , when I pull the clip it stays running. Guess it takes a bit to warm up the thermocoupler .

[azflycaster]

I have to hold the knob out for 20+ seconds after it lights. Will a clip hold it in place?

[ticki2]

Originally Posted by azflycaster

I have to hold the knob out for 20+ seconds after it lights. Will a clip hold it in place?

That's what I use it for , I leave it for 5 or 10 min.

[Lumatic]

I'll try the alligator clip deal. In fact I'm thinking of going a step farther at least to get through my fast approaching road trip.

Given that the burner flame is pretty small and vented to the outside, I'm thinking about running the fridge with the knob proped open to keep the burner lit if I can't keep it running any other way. I've been meaning to install a CO2 and gas alarm anyway.

I'm not that worried about being lit while towing. During the day should not be a big deal either. At night when everyone is asleep may be another thing, but I can get it good and cold and shut down till morning. I'm guessing I will be able to run 110 about half the time anyway.

Do you think I have a death wish?

[ticki2]

As long as there is a flame it shouldn't be a problem , what you don't want is a build up of gas and then a flame . Also , if you keep the knob pulled all the time I think you are in effect by-passing the thermostat and will freeze the contents of the frig.. I think you will find that it stays lit after a few minutes , give it a try.

[thecatsandi]

That would be CO alarm. Looks like the safety vale is getting old and tired.

[Lumatic]

Originally Posted by ticki2

As long as there is a flame it shouldn't be a problem , what you don't want is a build up of gas and then a flame . Also , if you keep the knob pulled all the time I think you are in effect by-passing the thermostat and will freeze the contents of the frig.. I think you will find that it stays lit after a few minutes , give it a try.

I am not sure how the thermostat ties in as it looks like there is no seperate pilot light on the unit in my 71. I certainly will try using the clip to keep the burner on for a longer period until the thermocouple kicks in.

If worse come to worse (although a band aid for my road trip) I can check the burner and the fridge temp regularly. I have to get up a few times a night anyway to answer the call (a 50s thing). I'm a lot more concerned with not enough cold than too much. Right now that is more appealing than taking everything apart, again, to get at the fridge parts. When I come back from the road I may be more motivated.

I'm also thnking of cutting a small access point in the bulkhead between the entrance door and the fridge so I can manually light the burner and visually see the flame as I can't do either the way the fridge was set up at the factory. Pretty dumb in my opinion.

[azflycaster]

Originally Posted by Marshall

I'll try the alligator clip deal. In fact I'm thinking of going a step farther at least to get through my fast approaching road trip.

Given that the burner flame is pretty small and vented to the outside, I'm thinking about running the fridge with the knob proped open to keep the burner lit if I can't keep it running any other way. I've been meaning to install a CO2 and gas alarm anyway.

I'm not that worried about being lit while towing. During the day should not be a big deal either. At night when everyone is asleep may be another thing, but I can get it good and cold and shut down till morning. I'm guessing I will be able to run 110 about half the time anyway.

Do you think I have a death wish?

I think that keeping the lever pulled is a very bad idea. If the flame blows out the propane will continue to flow. Propane is heavier then air so it will fill the frig area and then flow out on to the ground. One spark and your trailer explodes into a ball of flames. No detectors will help since ths area is sealed from the inside of your trailer. I think this is a very bad idea.

[ticki2]

Originally Posted by azflycaster

I think that keeping the lever pulled is a very bad idea. If the flame blows out the propane will continue to flow. Propane is heavier then air so it will fill the frig area and then flow out on to the ground. One spark and your trailer explodes into a ball of flames. No detectors will help since ths area is sealed from the inside of your trailer. I think this is a very bad idea.

I agree .

[Lumatic]

Originally Posted by azflycaster

I think this is a very bad idea.

Your point is well taken. Never said it was a good idea. About the most that can be said is it is an idea. Thanks

[safari57]

Originally Posted by Marshall

Your point is well taken. Never said it was a good idea. About the most that can be said is it is an idea. Thanks

Try towing it past a propane shop on your way out of town, sooner if you can, and ask them to have a quick look. Sometimes the service guy will take a quick look, make an adjustment or two, pat you on the back, wave at the family anxiously awaiting departure in the car, and send you on your way.

Or that's been my experience. Be sure, though, to practice your harried husband look for several moments at a time in the mirror though before heading out to see them.

Propane is as you note scary stuff when it is not dealt with properly. I would not circumvent any safety system to have cold food. It's not worth having to worry about on your trip IMHO. I'd be getting it fixed one way or the other. If the puppy dog looks don't work then it may be worth the few bucks it will take for peace of mind, cold food, and a happy and relaxing holiday. Safety first though always has to be at the top of the list.

Barry

[Lumatic]

Originally Posted by thecatsandi

That would be CO alarm. Looks like the safety vale is getting old and tired.

Is there anything else that the propane part of the fridge consists of besides the burner, thermocouple, safety valve, heat exchanger and chimney. Do I have this right in thinking: the burner lights so that's OK, the thermocouple is new so that's OK, the heat exchanger and chimney would not cause the burner not to stay lit, then I must have a bad safety valve. Advice please!

[Lumatic]

Originally Posted by safari57

Try towing it past a propane shop on your way out of town, sooner if you can, and ask them to have a quick look. Sometimes the service guy will take a quick look, make an adjustment or two, pat you on the back, wave at the family anxiously awaiting departure in the car, and send you on your way.

If the puppy dog looks don't work then it may be worth the few bucks it will take for peace of mind, cold food, and a happy and relaxing holiday. Safety first though always has to be at the top of the list.

Barry

That's part of the delema. I have been told by several service people there is no way to work on this unit without removing it. After taking it out once already I can believe it. It does looks more possible to replace the safety valve from the access door than the burner or thermocouple however. I certainly am not expert on these units. If replacing the safety valve has a reasonably good chance of fixing it I will gamble the $125 bucks but I am at the point that I think I may be better off cutting my losses and spending $1000 on a new one. If I put it in now it may just be ready for my trip, barring complications. And aren't there always! I already had it to one service provider who "fixed it". Taking the unit out is not just taking out a few bolts. You have to take out the bulkhead, spice rack, and counter top. That's at least several hours work. If anyone knows any short cuts or has any other ideas please let me know.

PS
While I am listening to my own whining I might as well..........
I just got this back from the shop last week. A less than a week job took over a month. Missed 2 trips I had planned. Ended up spending $3500. But on the upside I do have a new toilet, Penguin AC, Atwood hot water heater and a bunch of minor problems fixed so I'm not too upset. I know find I have a leaking black water dump valve and still need to address a furnace replacement. But that's the next chapter. Right now I just want to be in shape for this trip in August.

[ticki2]

I guess I'm not clear why the frig has to be removed to fix. Isn't there an outside hatch to access the back of the frig ?
Other things to check ; the magnetic shut-off valve may be sticking or defective , thermocoupler may not be positioned properly over flame , tubes to thermocoupler and/or pilot may be cloged or loose . Also change the gas thermostat setting in front to a different number than usual . Good luck

[Lumatic]

Originally Posted by ticki2

I guess I'm not clear why the frig has to be removed to fix. Isn't there an outside hatch to access the back of the frig ?
Other things to check ; the magnetic shut-off valve may be sticking or defective , thermocoupler may not be positioned properly over flame , tubes to thermocoupler and/or pilot may be cloged or loose . Also change the gas thermostat setting in front to a different number than usual . Good luck

There is a hatch but it is not aligned with the burner assembly and the space is so tight you can't get at it. Now that I had it out once I know where the screw is that holds the burner in position and maybe I can get to it, maybe not. I am thinking about cutting a small 2nd access hole inside the trailer bulkhead as you enter the trailer. This would let me light the burner manually and better visually inspect the flame. And maybe get at the !@#$%^& screw. If I can get that screw out I can get the burner and thermocouple out. But, then, there is always getting it back in. The other back end components I may be able to get to through the access door a little easier.

I don't know anything about a "magnetic shut off". A problem in positioning the thermocouple is very possible. If the burner doesn't stay lit does that mean the thermocouple is not getting hot enough and has to be more in the flame? How far?. I will check out your other suggestions as well as call Dometic and AAA that does vintage fridge rebuilding in CA.

Everybody keep those suggestions and comments coming. They are helpful and very appreciated.

[vswingfield]

I once paid an RV tech to fix the one in my Trade Wind while I was in Ft. Lauderdale. The burner was dirty. He apologized for charging me at all, but he had logged a service call. The flame can be too low.

Vaughan

[ticki2]

Marshall , the magnetic shut-off is the safety valve that shuts off the gas supply if there is no flame . The magnet is inside this valve. When you pull the knob in front at start up you are temporarily by-passing this device until the thermocoupler heats up . That is why it is not a good idea to to clip it open indefinately . The termocoupler should be well into the flame . If you have a service manual there is a pretty good explaination and some diagrams . If not , send your email and I will try to copy for you .

[Lumatic]

I tried the alligator clip and chaging the thermostat setting. No luck. I will check into the price of a new safety valve tomorrow. But I'm starting to think new fridge. Is putting a new one in just a matter of bolting it to the floor and hooking up the gas and electric lines? Any recommendations on what will fit in a 71 Tradewind? I fouind out this weekend any way the door is tweaked. Sour Grapes

[azflycaster]

Here is a link to a replacement chart:
Dometic - Conversion Chart
You will most likely not find an exact size replacement. Another good reason to keep the original as long as you can.