Dometic Refrigerator

[TG Twinkie]

Remove the old element. The wattage will be stamped on the barrel, maybe on the end.
You can find one on the Internet. Look on eBay.
Post a pic of the control panel. We should be able to tell the model from that.

[george104us]

TG I finally got my cell phone back. I've taken three shots of the control panel. I hope you can help me determine the model number. Any information on removing this refrigerator will be appreciated.

[TG Twinkie]

It looks similar to my model RM66

http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/...IMG_0398-R.jpg

http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/...r/IMG_0409.jpg

http://i1166.photobucket.com/albums/...r/IMG_0406.jpg

These pics show the controls on the RM66 as well as how to light the refer from the outside access door. You hold the red button up while lighting the burner thru the access port. hold the red button up for a minute in order for the thermocouple to signal the safety valve that flame has been established.
Note: it takes some time for the gas to purge the air out of the line, so keep trying.
Hope this helps

[spencercre]

After reading through altogether too many posts to troubleshoot my Dometic RM66 2-way refer, I thought I would summarize what I think to be the problem in my case, which seems to be consistent with this thread and ask for direction:
*Cools to 34 degrees on A/C, telling me that entire A/C system as well as the amonia cooling unit is functioning properly.
*Only cools to 60 degrees on LP, telling me the problem is isolated to the gas line.
So focusing on the gas side of things, here's what I've done already without any positive impact:
**Disassembled, cleared and cleaned the gas line from the first threaded nut through the filter (removed old membrane and replaced with cigarette filter and confirmed air passage), to the burner mechanism (cleaned and blew out).
So what's left? I can only think of burping (but since it works on A/C, isn't this a waste of time?) or cleaning the flue with a stiff wire brush (can rust kill that much effeciency?). I did notice that the rubber tube connected to the bottom of the Lighter electrode is broken, but since I light it by hand, can that have any impact on it?
As you can see, I've tried not to waste your time here, as this is a very helpful thread. But I'm stuck, and would appreciate getting unstuck. Thanks.

[TG Twinkie]

Check to see that you have 11" of water column. Beyond the thermostat. There is a test port down stream from the safety valve. Also one at the thermostat.
When you push the red button for lighting the burner. Once the burner is lit. Does the flame increase. If so, there may be a problem with the flow thru the safety valve. Which is the device with the red button.
Also check to see that the flame changes when you adjust the "gas" thermostat. There isn't much visual difference, but you can hear the change.
When on gas as opposed to electric. Good flow thru the chimney expelling the spent fuel and fumes is a must.


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[spencercre]

Thank you for the response TG. From your posting, following your lead, here’s what I’ve done:
1. Removed the burner assembly (again) in order to get a wire circular brush up the flu until it hit something impassable around 6” above the burner entrance (assume that is the flue baffle referenced elsewhere). Small amount of rust came out, but less than I had expected.
2. Tested the safety valve by watching the flame as I pushed it up and down. Result: no change in flame or sound at all, which tells me the valve is operating as intended.
3. Changed the gas thermostat setting: Saw no difference in the uniform blue flame as I changed the t-stat from 2 to Max and back down again. Ditto on the sound: Listening closely, I heard no change in sound at any setting. Repeated both tests with the same results: no change in sound or flame.
4. Water column test: I found both ports (one between the burner assembly and the safety valve; the other on the thermostat itself), and watched a quick video to orient myself on the various testing tools and reading instruments available. Unfortunately I cannot find a rental shop, tool shop or friend who has one. Stuck.
5. Removal: Tried to remove the whole fridge at the beginning to facilitate all these tests (and more). Fail. After taking out tons of screws and trim, it still wouldn’t budge. However, I didn’t press on through since a burp doesn’t seem to be needed, and would only have facilitated the other tests, which I was able to pull off without complete removal. No loss.
6. Replace: while I don’t think it affects this operation, I replaced the cracked/broken wire leading to the Lighter Electrode.
Results: Beginning from 65 degrees inside the refer, the temp dropped to 55 degrees after 8 hours and 32 degrees after 19 hours running on Propane at Max temp.
Interpretation: While we’ve proven it works well, it just seems to work slowly. Maybe it’s just old and needs some help so am considering adding an evaporator fan or changing out the thermistor.
TG Twinkie, you’ve been a great help and would like your final assessment as well.

[TG Twinkie]

Slow is the key word. It will take almost a full day for the refer to cool down. Especially if it is empty. This is considered "normal"

When you get ready to travel. Light the refer the day before or start it on electric. Then switch to gas when you are ready to travel. When you pack it. Pack it with cold items.
While the refer in my coach works well. I find that when it is set to 5 or higher it will freeze things like lettuce. So we carry that "fragile" stuff in an ice chest.
It sounds like you were successful in your endeavor to make it operational.
I would test the safety valve to make sure it is functioning the way it should.
The way to do that is to light the burner. Check to see that you have flame. Then blow it out. Wait a couple of minutes. Then try to light the burner without pushing the red button. If the burner lights it means there is still gas flowing thru the safety valve. If you can not light the burner without pushing the red button the safety valve is working.
Glad I could help.



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[spencercre]

Knowing all of that is 'normal' helps set our expectations (and helps stop me from having to continue poking/prodding/removing the refer). Thanks for the advice.
As to the safety valve test, that was a solid idea, which I just completed performing. The results are in: It passed. Lighted, blew it out, waited a few minutes and tried to light it without pushing the red safety valve up. Did not light, meaning it is still working as originally engineered.
Thanks again.