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Old 05-10-2004, 08:33 AM   #1
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Question dometic difficulties

First trip of the season this past weekend. Learned two things:
1) The refrigerator works a lot better if you use the propane tank that actually has propane in it.
2) While trying to figure out the propane problem, the 115 VAC operation of the 1979 vintage dometic doesn't work worth a hoot.

The freezer seemed to be getting cold, but the lower section stayed above 60 deg F. The fins in the back of the fresh food section stayed warm. The heater was hot to the touch, so I know the thermostat and heater are working. Do the heaters grow "colder" with age? Or is this a "feature" of 115 VAC operation? Another thread suggested that it takes 1.5 days for the refrigerator to cool down on 115 VAC. It is hard to believe that such slow operation is normal.

Once the propane was back on, the freezer and fresh food sections cooled down normally.
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Old 05-10-2004, 08:42 AM   #2
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If you can't get the temp below 60 on electric or gas, then you definately have a problem. Based on the vintage of your fridge, it may be time for replacement.

These types of refrigeration units do take time to cool down. I usually start mine up the night before I leave so that its cold by morning.

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Old 05-10-2004, 08:43 AM   #3
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Which Model #Dometic?
2-door, single-door, Frost free?
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Old 05-10-2004, 08:48 AM   #4
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You have to refill those tanks??? I though the propane fairies did that!

The issue with the 120 VAC operation of the refer is not uncommon. The older refer heating elements do get weaker as they age, just like a toaster does. That is all they are is a big toaster type element. What is likely hampering the ability for the refer to get cold is that there has been rust build up on the element or heat exchanger that is inside the galvanized tube. The rust can really insulated the "boiler for the heating element. The flame from the burner rises inside the coil of the heat exchanger, and the rust will normally flake off for the most part. The flame is also much hotter than the electric element so it will cool the refer faster.


Now for the word of advice: If you can live with it let it be. Once you start messing with it you will be disturbing years of rust. Trying to clean it out and replacing the heater could cause the refer to fail sooner rather than later. If it was mine that is what I would do. The 120 volt option is nice, but in the summer I need to use propane to get the best cooling anyhow.
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Old 05-10-2004, 08:50 AM   #5
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Sounds like the 120v heater is shot if it cools on propane. RVmobile.com is a good place for troubleshooting info and parts.

John
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Old 05-10-2004, 09:30 AM   #6
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The first "LAW" for successful usage of any RV Refrigerator, is that "it must be level, withing one half bubble" when parked.

The hotter the ambient temperature, the more critical that becomes.

The leveling point for RV Refrigerators is "the freezer plate."

Leveling the trailer has nothing to do with the freezer plate.

Fortunately, most all Airstream trailers, when level, the Refrigerator freezer plate is also level.

But, don't bet on it until you have tested yours.

Many owners calibrate the exterior bubble levels to the freezer plate, not to the trailer.

Also, the burner and oriface should be disassembled and cleaned every 2 years, or sooner, if the trailer is in a windy area. If not, you will still see a flame, but it will not be hot enough.

The flue over the burner is steel, therefore it does rust. When the trailer is bounced around, those rust particles get into the burner and oriface, which in turn, reduces the heat of the burner flame.

Andy
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Old 05-10-2004, 10:05 AM   #7
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Dometic difficulties

Jack: It works ok on propane.

Jaco: 2 door, supposedly frost free according to the manual.

Andy: Everything is level and I have no problems with propane operation. Everytime I start it I cover the burner and tap the flue to shake loose all that
rust. Did Dometic ever switch to a stainless steel flue?

John: I am leaning towards your solution. Getting access to the cartridge heater looks like a risky proposition in-place with lots of skin removal hazards.

Thanks everyone for the advice.
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Old 05-10-2004, 01:00 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sander17
Jack: It works ok on propane.

Jaco: 2 door, supposedly frost free according to the manual.

Thanks everyone for the advice.
Glad that the propane side works. Looks like the advice you got on the heater is probably the most logical at this point. Obviously the question is how long will the fridge continue to work?? Nobody knows. I have only had one failure in my entire trailer pulling life. That fridge was on my Hi-Lo and it failed after 14 years eventually developing a leak. I always kept it level so all I can assume is it just wore out.

Jack
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Old 06-15-2004, 03:30 PM   #9
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Question Dometic Difficulties--Part 2

Big trip #2: 10 days with the refrigerator running. Traveling over 2000 miles
total with a few stops.
Problem: after 9 days, the refrigerator section starts to warm up (>50 deg),
even though the freezer is still cold and the propane flame is unchanged.
Solution: turn off for 20 min and restart. The fridge cooled back down and
we threw out the spoiled food. I suspect the gas thermostat. The flame
is constant at all settings and the knob turns very hard. This is an RM100
vintage '79 and the manual suggests that if the freezer frosts up, it can
cause problems. It is supposed to have an automatic defrost feature. How
does this feature work? Is it part of the gas thermostat? No electronics seen
in this old beast.
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Old 06-15-2004, 03:53 PM   #10
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sander17

Thousands of RV owners experience what you just did.

"ALL" heat absorption type refrigerators that work on gas, must have a chimney.

That chimney is immediately above the burner. Just because you see a flame, does not mean that the flame is correct.

What happens is very simple. You say the first day it was OK. Then out it went. When you towed the trailer, and bounced it around (even moreso with unbalanced running gear) the "rust" in the flue or chimney falls down into the burner "and" oriface.

The fix is also simple. Clean the flue, clean the burner and clean the oriface. This should be on your PM list every 1 1/2 to 2 years.

Fire up the reefer, sit down, relax (with a cool one preferred), and wait about an hour (like Lens Crafters).

Check the freezer and bottom unit, and you should find them working OK.

Make sure the freezer compartment is level, when running the reefer while parked.

Makes a happy Airstreamer, "everytime."

Andy

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Old 06-16-2004, 03:03 AM   #11
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I have the same thing - my Dometic cools very cold in the freezer, but stays at 60F in the main section. The first time I turned it on 3 weeks ago, it cooled down to about 30F, but not anymore. Why is that? I am running it on the electric the whole time. So LP is not an issue.
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Old 06-16-2004, 08:24 AM   #12
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Dometic

I must agree with Brett,


Our Dometic has never given us any problems. (electric or propane)

I do keep it as clean as possible, but have never disassembled anything on it.

Ours is a 69 model, I do make sure it is as level as possible.

Don Pace
69 Overlander
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Old 06-16-2004, 09:38 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ipso_facto
I have the same thing - my Dometic cools very cold in the freezer, but stays at 60F in the main section. The first time I turned it on 3 weeks ago, it cooled down to about 30F, but not anymore. Why is that? I am running it on the electric the whole time. So LP is not an issue.
Our RM 60 does the same thing, on lp and ac. I believe the best way to fix this is to have the cooling unit rebuilt. As soon as I am able, I plan on taking it to Cool Fun to be fixed. Uwe recommends them and they are the closest of the recommended reefer repair facilities to where I live.

The alternative is replacement. I believe there is a new unit with similar dimensions, or a rebuilt unit is a possibility, but general consensus is to hang on to the original fridge as long as is practicable.
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Old 06-16-2004, 12:48 PM   #14
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It looks like with me, leveling is an issue. I didn't realize I would be affected even on electric and neglected to park it properly. It's so unlevel now, the matress on my twins slides to the side somehow.
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Old 06-16-2004, 01:42 PM   #15
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I just recently picked up a rebuild 2-door Dometic fridge for my 63 Overlander, and got a good look at the workings of the absorption fridges. I got mine from Crane's in Vallejo, CA. Only 7 hours drive from here....
Anyways, the electric function on my current refrigerator, a single door Dometic of 1971 vintage, works grreat since I replaced the heater element. It was a simple job, took about an hour or so.
I blew out the flue with compressed air, and now the propane function works better, too. While in Baja last March, Murray ( Creampuff) helpe dme save my food by cleaning the burner tube and orifice. we just got back yesterday from a 5-day trip through Californias Central Coast, and the fridge was usd in both modes, gas while driving, electric while camping. Both modes provided exceptional results. I had to turn the electric thermostat down, to keep food from freezing. This was on 70-75F days.
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Old 06-16-2004, 03:10 PM   #16
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Post Update on Dometic Difficulties 1 and 2

Difficulty #1 turned out to be a non-working electric heater. I'll track down
the wiring and check the stash the PO left me for a spare heater. First I have
to do something about the 10 billion mosquitoes that have taken up residence
in my yard.

Difficulty #2: The fact that the refrig. worked ok on propane for 9 days before
giving problems still suggests a problem with the thermostat. Does anyone know
how the "automatic defrost" works on an RM100? After turning the gas off for
20 minutes and restarting fixed the problem, it seems that the "reset"
redistributed the amonnia vapor and allowed it to flow properly.

Side note: It is recommended to use the shelf in the freezer as the standard
for leveling since it has the amonnia pipes attached to its bottom. Unfortunately, the shelf is not flat. The little bull's eye level gives a different
reading every 2 inches across its surface. Take your pick. I take readings
at several other surfaces and average.
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Old 06-16-2004, 03:36 PM   #17
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sander:
here is some good reading on heat absorption refrigerators:
www.gasrefrigeration.net
This site has answered many of my earlier refrigerator questions.
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Old 06-16-2004, 04:21 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ipso_facto
It looks like with me, leveling is an issue. I didn't realize I would be affected even on electric and neglected to park it properly. It's so unlevel now, the matress on my twins slides to the side somehow.
Here is a copy from the site metioned above.

"
Running While Not Level

The second biggest killer is running unleveled. When the refrigerator is operating, water moves around the pipes and flows down the coils on the back into the main storage tank. The pipes on the back all slope down from side to side. When the RV is off-level, one direction of the coil will be flowing up-hill and the water flow will stop. When this happens there is no flow to the boiler section and the water in the boiler pipe boils dry. The rust inhibitor dries up and blocks the boiler tube. If the unit is kept running the boiler pipe will get so hot that it will crack from the gas pressure inside the coils (450#). Now the cooling unit is really dead.



Never believe the stories that the newer units do not need to be run level? They are made to run more off-level than the older units BUT there is still a point where they will stop working. Always try to level you RV, as best you can, and if you have to park for a long time and cannot level the unit, shut down the refrigerator. It will keep the food cold for hours. Most of the newer units we repair have all been run unleveled and cracked the boiler. (This can be a very costly mistake)".

Jack
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