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Old 04-25-2019, 06:08 AM   #29
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I agree with xrvr. Color codes change over the years. You need to confirm where the wires inside the colored insulation actually go.

Remember that the U-cord wiring is almost completely separate from the trailer's "house wiring" 12v and 120v circuits. Other than the charge line to the battery, it is the same as a simple utility trailer's light wiring.

First, use a voltmeter to identify the trailer's 12v charge line. With a good battery installed in the trailer, connect the meter between the trailer's metal frame and each wire in turn to find the one that measures 12v. Mark it clearly. Do not connect an ohm meter to that one, as it will blow the fuse inside the meter.

Then, use an ohm meter to identify the trailer's ground wire. It will be the one that measures zero ohms between the wire and the trailer's metal frame. Mark it also, and do not connect power to that one. Sparks will fly!

Then use a battery charger to identify each of the remaining wires. Connect the negative clamp to the trailer frame and touch the positive clamp to each remaining wire in turn. See what lights up or (in the case of the brakes) makes noise.

If an individual light fails to work, check the ground at that light. A bit of corrosion at the connection may be the cause. Clean up and re-connect should fix that.

Once you know where each wire actually goes, hook them up to your U-cord trailer plug to match the tow vehicle.

I have found U-cord plug wiring to be a challenging task, because my mind does not do the mirror image thing very well. Having another person check the diagram as I connect each pin is a big help. etrailer.com has a good diagram you can print out.

Best of luck!
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Old 04-25-2019, 06:09 AM   #30
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I agree with xrvr. Color codes change over the years. You need to confirm where the wires inside the colored insulation actually go.

Remember that the U-cord wiring is almost completely separate from the trailer's "house wiring" 12v and 120v circuits. Other than the charge line to the battery, it is the same as a simple utility trailer's light wiring.

First, use a voltmeter to identify the trailer's 12v charge line. With a good battery installed in the trailer, connect the meter between the trailer's metal frame and each wire in turn to find the one that measures 12v. Mark it clearly. Do not connect an ohm meter to that one, as it will blow the fuse inside the meter.

Then, use an ohm meter to identify the trailer's ground wire. It will be the one that measures zero ohms between the wire and the trailer's metal frame. Mark it also, and do not connect power to that one. Sparks will fly!

Then use a battery charger to identify each of the remaining wires. Connect the negative clamp to the trailer frame and touch the positive clamp to each remaining wire in turn. See what lights up or (in the case of the brakes) makes noise.

If an individual light fails to work, check the ground at that light. A bit of corrosion at the connection may be the cause. Clean up and re-connect should fix that.

Once you know where each wire actually goes, hook them up to your U-cord trailer plug to match the tow vehicle.

I have found U-cord plug wiring to be a challenging task, because my mind does not do the mirror image thing very well. Having another person check the diagram as I connect each pin is a big help. etrailer.com has a good diagram you can print out.

Best of luck!
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Old 04-25-2019, 06:31 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by mimiandrews View Post
I agree with xrvr. Color codes change over the years. You need to confirm where the wires inside the colored insulation actually go.



Remember that the U-cord wiring is almost completely separate from the trailer's "house wiring" 12v and 120v circuits. Other than the charge line to the battery, it is the same as a simple utility trailer's light wiring.



First, use a voltmeter to identify the trailer's 12v charge line. With a good battery installed in the trailer, connect the meter between the trailer's metal frame and each wire in turn to find the one that measures 12v. Mark it clearly. Do not connect an ohm meter to that one, as it will blow the fuse inside the meter.



Then, use an ohm meter to identify the trailer's ground wire. It will be the one that measures zero ohms between the wire and the trailer's metal frame. Mark it also, and do not connect power to that one. Sparks will fly!



Then use a battery charger to identify each of the remaining wires. Connect the negative clamp to the trailer frame and touch the positive clamp to each remaining wire in turn. See what lights up or (in the case of the brakes) makes noise.



If an individual light fails to work, check the ground at that light. A bit of corrosion at the connection may be the cause. Clean up and re-connect should fix that.



Once you know where each wire actually goes, hook them up to your U-cord trailer plug to match the tow vehicle.



I have found U-cord plug wiring to be a challenging task, because my mind does not do the mirror image thing very well. Having another person check the diagram as I connect each pin is a big help. etrailer.com has a good diagram you can print out.



Best of luck!


Thanks for a clear process. At this point Iíve got to know each wires color and function and the only way to do it is to meter each one.
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Old 04-25-2019, 04:36 PM   #32
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Thanks for a clear process. At this point Iíve got to know each wires color and function and the only way to do it is to meter each one.
Use a battery charger.
Connect the black lead of the charger to a clean spot on the frame.
Use the red lead and connect with each colored wire one at a time.
Write down what lights up and the color.
Connect that wire to the appropriate pin on the 7 pin connector.
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Old 04-25-2019, 04:54 PM   #33
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How ours worked; might help you or someone else:

Umbilical. Function. Trailer
Black. Brake. Blue
White. Ground. White
Red. Battery. Black
Blue. Backup. Yellow
Green. R Turn. Brown
Yellow. L Turn. Red
Brown. Tail. Green
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Old 04-25-2019, 05:07 PM   #34
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On the 72 Safari we have:
White - Ground
Blue - Hot
Brown - Right Turn & Brake
Black - Back Up Lights
Green - Running Lights
Red - Left Turn & Brake
Yellow - Trailer Brakes


So not sure now how to match the Tow Vechile?
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Old 04-25-2019, 06:11 PM   #35
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Use a meter or test light. Put on the left turn blinker. Probe from TV ground to all the pins on the TV connector until you find the one that is going on and off. Move to right blinker, tail lights, then brakes, etc. one pin should have 12V on it all the time. That is the charge line. One of the two left over pins is ground. I would think your TV manual would have a diagram.

Follow TGTwinkie's process to ID all the pins on the trailer connector. Someone may have changed them from the original.

After you have the function of all the TV pins, match to the trailer functions regardless of color.

Al
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Old 04-30-2019, 09:25 PM   #36
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One step closer but still not there. So took the Lexus Gx to the dealer service and they replaced a 140 amp fuse and 15 amp one so tow vehicle back online. The brake controller not controlling the electric brakes. Today when I hooked it up the controller display was showing OL (over limit maybe?) the adjustments on it did nothing to get a numerical display. Iím going to hook it up to the 06 Safari 25 FB and see if it still works correctly. Problem 2 is the Left turn signal doesnít work. I removed the bulb and cleaned the base and now the bulb works but only when car is running with lights on (solid red) doesnít flash with flashers and not when brakes applied. Only one bulb in the fixture and red wire connected to TB. Taking ideas from those of you who know.
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Old 04-30-2019, 09:53 PM   #37
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One bulb, one wire, one function. That sounds like a tail light. In the simplest system, one wire feeds tail lights and clearance lights, one is left turn, one is right turn (both left and right sre powered for brake), one is ground, one is 12V, one is brake. Some times a bulb has two filaments, one for turn/brake, one for tail light. Bulb and socket would have two contacts on the bottom in addition to ground and would be two wires for power and maybe one for ground.

Al
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Old 04-30-2019, 09:57 PM   #38
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So if the bulb is a single filament one then that might explain the reason it doesnít flash?
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Old 05-01-2019, 05:30 AM   #39
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I have very limited experience with Lexus, but I do remember when we were trying to wire my daughter's Lexus to pull a small utility trailer, a relay of some sort had to be added to the car's electrical system to make the lights work. The procedure was found in the online service manual. My electronics engineer son-in-law did most of the research, so I don't remember exactly what he did or where the socket was located. The part was available and the car had a plug-in socket ready to receive it, which we finally found.

US auto makers use a dual filiment bulb in the tail light socket. Cars made elsewhere often use two separate bulbs. Wiring that to make a dual filament trailer lights work takes a bit of "cheating."
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Old 05-01-2019, 05:34 AM   #40
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Thanks for a clear process. At this point I’ve got to know each wires color and function and the only way to do it is to meter each one.

You are most welcome.

Meter the 12v charge line and the ground, then power each of the remaining individual circuits. That way the meter leads don't have to be as long as the trailer.
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Old 05-01-2019, 06:01 AM   #41
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Sounds like you have the Charge Line wire in the 7 way plug connected to the turn/brake light on the one side.
When you replaced the 40 amp fuse in the TV the charge line was energized.
More circuit ID is required.
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Old 05-02-2019, 07:40 PM   #42
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Problem finally solved. Went to Master Hitch here in Houston and within minutes two guys were working on the trailer and Tow Vehicle. One guy took apart my carefully required 7 pin plug and started working it like a rubric cube. Wires coming off and then reassembled in the correct order. They rolled up a portable diagnostic cart that had all of the car light functions on it so they made sure the car was good then started testing the trailer wires. It was like a pit crew at the races. Then one man moved to the tail light and replaced the bulb and worked on the light fixture. Then did the license plate light and marker lights. They would have fixed those if I had time to leave it. And now electric brakes are 100%. So lesion is to hire a pro on these things. Itís great to drive around town with turn signals, brake lights and everything working. Master Hitch gets 5 stars from me.
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