Leveling side to side?

[lsbrodsky]

I will tell you that the Beech Lane levelers now come with rubber pads to put under them to prevent slippage and wedges to block. Apparently buyers complained that the levelers slipped( a la Anderson) and now Beech Lane provides the rubber pads. They do work on sand, from my experience.
Larry

[SteveSueMac]

Originally Posted by Rzrbrn

I don’t agree. You know now. If you use Andersen products you are tainted.

I can’t agree with you conclusion here, even though I use the Beech Lane version primarily to not support Andersen’s company or to be misconstrued as free marketing for them. That’s my personal choice. I don’t look at those using Andersen levelers or hitches and think those campers are “tainted” - that feels dramatically drastic to me. I recycled my Andersen’s for dramatic effect after reaching out to them 3 times for a refund - and while it felt good to me, they already had my money in their bank account so I’m sure they got a good laugh at me in the process. I didn’t care. I’m happy not to be using them - but wouldn’t judge others who do....

The fact is, both designs are VERY similar and work perfectly for precise leveling.

The Beech Lanes are slightly less expensive and come with a very sticky almost sandpaper-ish grip strip for the tops (which helps the trailer tires grab the leveler better - and I’ve had both so am comfortable making that comparison) and they also come with a rubber mat for underneath to prevent slippage on more shifty surfaces.

I’ve also tried the Camco version of curved levelers but found them to be too short and way too slippery. Same idea, not quite as effective in practice from my personal experience. Those got recycled too but purely for their lack of effectiveness. [emoji3]

The level of precision you can get from Andersen or Beech Lane curved levelers is outstanding. I like the idea of the leveling app which I haven’t used yet. May put that in to play for 2020’s season [emoji3]

Go forth and camp in a level fashion [emoji3]

[sheriff1]

Originally Posted by AKNate

I read it as referring to the owners of the Anderson company, not the owners of Anderson products - Beech company ownership is not associated with defacing national monuments as the Anderson company ownership is, so he’d rather support Beech. I don’t think he meant to say Anderson product owners are national monument defacers by association.
FWIW, Corona Arch that Ryan Anderson defaced isn’t actually a national monument, not that that makes his actions any less bad.

Thanks for clearing that up in my absence! Exactly what I meant.

[Belbein]

We were in a campground this weekend that was pretty off-kilter. I was thinking about how to level it side to side. What I can't figure out is: (1) do you back both wheels of a two axle trailer onto whatever your levelling material is (how do you keep them from sliding?!) and (2) what do you do about chocks? In this particular campground, if the trailer started to move backwards it would go down a pretty steep little gully.

[bweybright]

Personally I make a really long ramp. Caveat: I have 8 sets of blocks from a long term storage situation so I have plenty to play with. Doing a really big slant with one or two sets is going to be much more difficult.


Chocks: I use the lego type blocks so the bottom construction provides its own grip. Then on the downhill side of things I use the factory sold chock that integrates and locks into them. Looking at X chocks between the tires might be something to consider as well.


I like to keep my axles on the same plane when camping which is why I like the lego type blocks. On a really slanted space it can mean that one tire gets 3 or 4 blocks while the other gets one or two, and it means when I back I have to go VVVVVEEEERRRRYYYY slow so as not to tumble the blocks. In truth I have only had to do this once since 2010, with 30,000 miles on the trailer towing. If I remember correctly the maximum stated height is 6 blocks before you are in bad juju land.

Essentially think of leveling out the slant you are on so the trailer tires see a level platform. Hope this helps.

[WhereStream]

I use wood, beveled and painted campground green.

I bought an Andersen leveler (before his adventure with the spray can) when I first got the Airstream, and I used it on one or two camping trips. It worked well.

Then tried the wood blocks, and they were just simpler to use.

Our trailer is a Bambi, so it might be easier to level with the wood blocks, since there is only one axle — one wheel — to fool with.

I still carry the Andersen, and may use it again, but the wood blocks are hard to beat for simplicity.

[nickcrowhurst]

My standard no-cost procedure for fine adjustment after initial approximate levelling left to right is to ensure that the screws holding the bubble level are sufficiently loose to allow precise manual adjustment to center the bubble. That keeps everyone happy.
I've been recommending this procedure each time the topic has come up on this forum in the past 20 years.
Nick

[SteveSueMac]

Originally Posted by nickcrowhurst

My standard no-cost procedure for fine adjustment after initial approximate levelling left to right is to ensure that the screws holding the bubble level are sufficiently loose to allow precise manual adjustment to center the bubble. That keeps everyone happy.
I've been recommending this procedure each time the topic has come up on this forum in the past 20 years.
Nick

[emoji3]

Always many solutions to every problem [emoji3]

[thewarden]

Originally Posted by Rzrbrn

He took responsibility only because he was caught red handed. He sent his teenage boys to their truck to remove the license plate. The people that caught him recorded on video. Some people just don’t care. If you have the money you can make almost anything right.

And his business was taking a thrashing so he obviously had to do something. Continuing to use his products is a personal choice. I personally chose to put mine in the recycle dumpster.

[sheriff1]

Originally Posted by thewarden

And his business was taking a thrashing so he obviously had to do something. Continuing to use his products is a personal choice. I personally chose to put mine in the recycle dumpster.

[emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]

[4taxabel]

Where do you mount the LevelmatePro on a airstream? Mine is a 27FB...does the trailer need to be absolutely level when you mount the device?

[lsbrodsky]

Originally Posted by 4taxabel

Where do you mount the LevelmatePro on a airstream? Mine is a 27FB...does the trailer need to be absolutely level when you mount the device?

Mine is a 25FB and I mounted it to the wall aft of the bed. It does not have to be level when you mount it; you calibrate it with the App after you have the trailer perfectly level.
Larry

[rmkrum]

Originally Posted by 4taxabel

Where do you mount the LevelmatePro on a airstream? Mine is a 27FB...does the trailer need to be absolutely level when you mount the device?

Mine is mounted inside the wardrobe on the wall. I set the Airstream as level as I could to get the gadget screwed down neatly. Then a quick calibration and all is well.

[markdoane]

This is the preferred method:

Level Bubble: I think its important to not overtighten the mounting screws. They need to be slightly loose so you can adjust the level as necessary, using the Crowhurst levelling method:

How to get the trailer perfectly level
This seems a good day to describe my recommended method of perfectly levelling the trailer from side to side. I first get the trailer sufficiently level for comfort and for using the refrigerator by using one or two planks under one side. Then, I go to the large bubble level fixed across the front of the trailer, and the bubble will usually be off by an inch or so. The level is mounted with two screws through vertically slotted holes. Here is the important part - the screws are not tightened right up. This enables me to adjust the level until the bubble is exactly in the centre of the level marks. It works every time, and my dear wife and fellow campers are always impressed with the accuracy of this method. Nick.
__________________
Originally posted by Nick Crowhurst

[PatLee]

rmkrum - I just bought the LevelMatePro and trying to decide where to install it. The video I saw as well as your posting here show it being installed inside a closet. Yet the directions that came with the LevelMatePro say to install it as close to front of trailer as possible to ensure it can connect with the phone app (which is with me in driver's seat of truck). My question is, are you able to get it to hook up okay with your closet door shut? or do you have to open the closet door so it can connect?
Thanks!
P.S. The closet in my 25' Int'l FBT is in middle of the AS.

[PatLee]

4taxabel - the directions say to mount the little LevelProMate box as straight as possible inside the trailer but that its not critical it be perfect. What is critical is that BEFORE you activate the bluetooth connection between your phone and the LevelPro the first time, you level your trailer as perfectly as possible. This becomes the baseline it will operate off once it's hooked up. BTW - the directions that came with the LevelProMate are the most detailed and clear ones I've ever read. The product is made in America, too. I can't wait to field test it.

[WorkBGone]

Originally Posted by kittmaster

^^ This ^^

Removes the guessing game and you can get it down to .25" of accuracy.

I used a machinist level and "picked a point" in the trailer that needs to be most level, in our case, the dinette area in front in close proximity to the fridge. Used that my level point and then set the levelmate pro it.

We are in an leveled within minutes....best investment you'll ever make for your trailer.

Let us know which you end up.

Did you place the sensor where you set the level point? I am thinking of purchasing, but my worry with the Airstream is how critical is it in selecting where to place the sensor? I would like to put on our wall where the fridge extends into the aisle (sounds like where you are describing).

[rmkrum]

Originally Posted by PatLee

rmkrum - I just bought the LevelMatePro and trying to decide where to install it. The video I saw as well as your posting here show it being installed inside a closet. Yet the directions that came with the LevelMatePro say to install it as close to front of trailer as possible to ensure it can connect with the phone app (which is with me in driver's seat of truck). My question is, are you able to get it to hook up okay with your closet door shut? or do you have to open the closet door so it can connect?
Thanks!
P.S. The closet in my 25' Int'l FBT is in middle of the AS.

The closet in my 2007 22 foot International CCD is near the front, just about 7 feet from the pano window in the front. I can easily pick up the signal on my iPhone from the cab of my truck, which is a short bed 2012 crewmax Toyotas Tacoma 4x4.

My closet is right next to the front sleeping area, East-west bed arrangement. The refrigerator is mounted at the rear wall of the closet. LevelMatePRO module is mounted about six feet off the floor on the rear wall of the closet close to the center line of the Airstream. I think it has a good ‘view’ of the window from there. I set it on a line 90 degrees to the edge of the door using a framing square so it is dead parallel to the floor left to right. I put it there so I can also easily reach it to change the batteries without standing on my head.

Set level by parking the Airstream on a concrete driveway that is flat left to right, and then jacked the tongue up until the refrigerator cabinet is dead level fore and aft. Left-right level is also very close to perfect. Used a two foot aluminum level that is known to be accurate. Calibrated the LevelMatePRO to that position. The calibration part of the app lets you set which way the front of the LevelMatePRO is facing, so you can fasten it to the front wall of your wardrobe to get closer to the front of the Airstream. It has to be right side up.

You might want to be closer to the front of your unit, just be sure you can “see” it through your front window. I’d tape it in your chosen spot and see how well your phone can pick up the signal before you mount it permanently.

Since my closet door and cabinet is wood, it’s not blocking the signal, open or shut. The rear wall of the wardrobe is also wood.

Probably more detail than needed, but hey, I’m the Overkill Engineering department head.

[kittmaster]

Originally Posted by PatLee

rmkrum - I just bought the LevelMatePro and trying to decide where to install it. The video I saw as well as your posting here show it being installed inside a closet. Yet the directions that came with the LevelMatePro say to install it as close to front of trailer as possible to ensure it can connect with the phone app (which is with me in driver's seat of truck). My question is, are you able to get it to hook up okay with your closet door shut? or do you have to open the closet door so it can connect?
Thanks!
P.S. The closet in my 25' Int'l FBT is in middle of the AS.

Mine is a 25 2019 serenity RBQ. We mounted ours in the front locker on the drivers side "white" panel INSIDE the locker.

Since it is bluetooth, it still works well with me in the driver seat of the TV as I level side to side....and then use the power jack to adjust front to back.

The only kicker is you obviously have to get inside the trailer when you arrive to turn the unit on.

It goes to sleep to conserve power, but still recommended to shut it off between trips.

Other than that, we've used it all season and it just works...and is effective.

Try to keep the mount point as close to the front of the unit as you can as that is where you are doing most of your work!

[rmkrum]

Dumb question. How do you turn the LevelMatePRO back on after it has gone to ‘sleep’. Also how are you turning yours off between trips.

That was not clear to me...when I read the instructions that came with mine.