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truckasaurus · 10-08-2008, 10:30 AM

I've read that using mechanical leveling aids is a bad-frame flex inducing idea. However, given that I'm in the planning stages of a complete rebuild on my '61 which would allow me to modify the frame for mounting points and strengthening I'm keen to scope out a few crazy ideas.

I was wondering whether anyone had tried power lifting units actually mounted close to the axles on the chassis. I was looking at the product below and thought that if it were mounted between my axles (twin) that I'd get really easy leveling and greater stability. It appears to be good for towards 6000 lbs at full extension which sounds OK for my planned trailer weight of say 4000 lbs. (not that I'm not envisioning a 26' trailer suspended in mid air!). The cost is about $600, so nothing too out there.

The lifter has a sort of trailing arm that makes it look really sturdy and I would imagine that it would create a more stable unit than the tires/suspension/shock on their own. (I know a truck full of 2 x 6's is cheap but on a long multi stop trip something slick may be worthwhile).

I don't want to start adding weight to the trailer so early on in my design process but maybe I could nix the four scissor style traditional stabilizing jacks in lieu, any thoughts?

http://www.ultra-fab.com/new_detail....gnum=39-941705

guy99 · 10-08-2008, 12:08 PM

I don't own a trailer, but it seems like this device might help with lateral leveling, you would still need stabilizers. On our MH with levelers, if I just extend the leveler(s) on the low corner(s) the MH will bounce around as we move about. Extending the other levelers so that they just 'kiss' the ground reduces this quite a bit.

87MH · 10-08-2008, 01:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by truckasaurus

I was wondering whether anyone had tried power lifting units actually mounted close to the axles on the chassis.

The Connector Beam spanning the two axles consists of two 2" X 2" pieces of square tubing welded together and is actually welded to the bracket extensions of the Dexter Axles. I went with a Dexter #11 axle cut down to a 3600 lb rating per axle. The #11 axle is a much more robust design than the original Henschen, and the way the spreader beam is mounted the torque tube itself sees no appreciable weight. The #11 axles also gave me the opportunity to use the Dexter "Never-Lube" bearings - these bearings are some stout.

Below is a side view with a hydraulic jack in operation. The round socket used as a jack point stabilizer is actually a floor flange for a 2" pipe. These flanges prevent the jacks from slipping off of the spreader beam. I have a pair of 12 volt electric jacks which I could utilize to lift the rig, but the hydraulics are actually quicker to deploy.

The main reason I installed these was to take the pressure off of the rubber in the axles during storage, thus extending the normal life of the axles. Of course, the hydraulics also level from side to side.

More info here:http://www.airforums.com/forums/f219...ign-14737.html

I ran some numbers before installing the lifting beam...a single 2" X 2" piece of tubing was no where near strong enough, but, considering the length I had to span, by doubling the tubes I increased the strength by almost 4 times.

You will still require the stabilizers at the outboard corners of the trailer to prevent "shake" as people and pets move around in the interior.

HowieE · 10-08-2008, 03:15 PM

The first question I have is do you have clearance under the trailer between the axles. My water tank is there and extends below the frame so it would require a lift kit to mount this system.

Second I might see this holding 6,000 lbs fully extended but I doubt very much if it could support half of the when the feet first contact the ground. The 2 beams holding the screw jacks would just buckle in the center if not supported by the floor of the trailer, something you could not do with the belly pan.

A couple of blocks of wood to drive up on is a lot cheaper and much more secure.

However I do like the jack and flange idea, with safety jacks, for changing tires and working under the trailer

longdog · 10-08-2008, 04:55 PM

There is an SOB fiberglass trailer called the Oliver, that comes factory equipped with a 3 point leveling system. It's pretty neat. I think the website is olivertraveltrailers.com - Home of the Oliver Legacy.

longdog · 10-08-2008, 05:00 PM

wait... I didn't type that URL... strange.

truckasaurus · 10-08-2008, 05:43 PM

I love this site. The same manufacturer as the product I mentioned makes another item that looks like it would work the same way as the Oliver trailer 3 point system; and I can even see how I might mount it, avoiding water tanks etc. Dennis your solution and trailer look great, thanks for the link to your thread.

I don't have a firm location for the tanks yet so I can fit them around the jacks, I would also be able to adapt the chassis to take the additional forces involved just so long as the jacks themselves are up to the task. I'm not sure about the clearance issue yet but I think I'll try and get some more info on these products and go from there. I think such a simple means of leveling would be great on a really long trip.

longdog · 10-08-2008, 06:40 PM

When you get your 3 point leveler worked out, mind if you let me know how? Thanks.

uwe · 10-08-2008, 09:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by truckasaurus

I've read that using mechanical leveling aids is a bad-frame flex inducing idea. However, given that I'm in the planning stages of a complete rebuild on my '61 which would allow me to modify the frame for mounting points and strengthening I'm keen to scope out a few crazy ideas.

I was wondering whether anyone had tried power lifting units actually mounted close to the axles on the chassis. I was looking at the product below and thought that if it were mounted between my axles (twin) that I'd get really easy leveling and greater stability. It appears to be good for towards 6000 lbs at full extension which sounds OK for my planned trailer weight of say 4000 lbs. (not that I'm not envisioning a 26' trailer suspended in mid air!). The cost is about $600, so nothing too out there.

The lifter has a sort of trailing arm that makes it look really sturdy and I would imagine that it would create a more stable unit than the tires/suspension/shock on their own. (I know a truck full of 2 x 6's is cheap but on a long multi stop trip something slick may be worthwhile).

I don't want to start adding weight to the trailer so early on in my design process but maybe I could nix the four scissor style traditional stabilizing jacks in lieu, any thoughts?

Ultra-Fab Products, Inc.|Manufacturer and Supplier of RV Accessories & Industrial Lift Assists

Check the weight of the Ultra Fab levelers. I was going to use them on a project, and quickly returned them for the reason that they were extremely heavy. If you check the shipping weight, you should get the idea. A pair of them made my Suburban droop in teh rear suspension....not good if trailer weight is a concern.
Instead, i went with individual BAL powered stabilizers.

RLS · 10-09-2008, 10:38 PM

Just came across this electric jack while surfing. It only weighs 23lbs. lifts 3.5 tons and has a range of 12". Might be something to consider ??? No more blocks, just slide it under and raise her up, maybe??
CSA-US 12v InstaJACK Electric Scissor Jack w/ optional InstaWrench - Jack - Trailer - Auto - Trailer - The Garage Store

Bob

HowieE · 10-10-2008, 07:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RLS

Just came across this electric jack while surfing. It only weighs 23lbs. lifts 3.5 tons and has a range of 12". Might be something to consider ??? No more blocks, just slide it under and raise her up, maybe??
CSA-US 12v InstaJACK Electric Scissor Jack w/ optional InstaWrench - Jack - Trailer - Auto - Trailer - The Garage Store

Bob

A correction. The jack is said to lift cars up to 3 1/2 tons. That is not the same as lifting 3 1/2 tons. The video shows the jack lifting one corner of the car. This jack would have trouble lifting one side of any Airstream.

truckasaurus · 10-10-2008, 09:14 AM

I've had a quick look at the weights of some of these things, they seem to start at 108 lbs for the type in the first post. Quite a bit, but at least it would be in a good location for tow handling I suppose. I'm also assuming that I'd install them to be at near maximum extension, say 4" of extension to go, to make full use of their power curve. Then I'd slip a wider footplate, and a block if needed, underneath when in location for the final leveling.

Anyhow still just an idea, ironically I still like the manual tongue jacks for the simple clean look, weird....

RLS · 10-10-2008, 10:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HowieE

A correction. The jack is said to lift cars up to 3 1/2 tons. That is not the same as lifting 3 1/2 tons. The video shows the jack lifting one corner of the car. This jack would have trouble lifting one side of any Airstream.

You got me!

Good point.

OK scratch that idea!

Bob