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Old 05-16-2019, 01:45 PM   #1
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Fridge temp on propane

My fridge cools very well when plugged into shore power. When the power is disconnected and I just run on propane, the fridge temp will heat up pretty quickly. The propane tank is full and on. Any thoughts on this?

Thanks
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Old 05-16-2019, 02:41 PM   #2
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Have you checked the back of the fridge when running on propane to see if the flame is lit and heating the refrigerant? How are your batteries and do you have the Use/Store switch on Use? You need 12 volt power from the batteries to run the fridge circuit board.
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Old 05-16-2019, 04:19 PM   #3
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RV fridges can be temperamental if they are not very close to level, and it seems more so when on propane. Every RV I have owned, the fridge worked better on propane. If level is not the issue, as suggested, I would check the flame on the back of the fridge. They are great places for all manner of insects to set up shop and restrict/plug the flow of propane.
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Old 05-16-2019, 05:37 PM   #4
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Other thought might be the burner might have some spider webs in it and you may not be getting full flame. I've seen this a lot on the water heater where the flame is inhibited due to spider webs. It's worth checking.

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Old 05-16-2019, 05:40 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by Shazam View Post
My fridge cools very well when plugged into shore power. When the power is disconnected and I just run on propane, the fridge temp will heat up pretty quickly. The propane tank is full and on. Any thoughts on this?

Thanks
Does your 2015 fridge have a flue that goes up through the roof? If so ditto to Jack about spider webs etc..

Get a good look at the flame, and see if it is burning well, and report on its color. Above my pay grade, but it should be a consistent blue I think.

There should be no difference in performance on propane.

Good luck,

Peter
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Old 05-16-2019, 08:19 PM   #6
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Sometimes you have to turn off and then restart. Last time we went out I went out and listened if it was igniting. It wasn’t. So I turned on both LP tanks and it lit right away. LP pressure issue.

Also...

Turn the refrigerator off for awhile. Then turn on. Go out and listen to the igniter. If it doesn’t ignite after 3 tries, go back inside and turn off and follow the same procedure. You should be able to hear it when it ignites. If it doesn’t work then...Well it could be your LP isn’t getting to the igniter.

Good luck.
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Old 05-16-2019, 08:21 PM   #7
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Attached is a (dark) photo of the back of the fridge. Where is the flame located? There are also some disconnected terminals on the right. Is something supposed to go here? I can take take a better photo during daytime if needed.
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Old 05-16-2019, 08:57 PM   #8
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Shazm, in our 20 directly below the upper refer vent (with the fan) opening is the lower compartment that contains the mother board (black box on the left) and the flame tube in the lower right, behind the flashing. You can peek into the opening and see the flame.

Also in your picture there is the riser likely at the extreme right just out if the picture that if the propane is on and burning will be very hot. You will feel the heat, no need to touch the tube to confirm.


http://www.airforums.com/forums/f425...m_medium=email. Post #11

Behind the flashing is the flame tube. Remove the flashing and look for spider webs inside. I've never had a problem so look to your dometic instructions removing the tube, cleaning it and adjusting the flame. Others more experienced will likely opine. You can also search refer flame tube cleaning and adjustment in the search box above. Utube if you want a visual.

I will say i have never had any wasp or spider problems in the refer or hot water heater, i believe as every 6 months i put a 1/2 a lg dog flea collar in each compartment, adjacent to the flame flashing looped over the wire. This is an old pic with the old location looped over the compartment drain tube. If you're not getting flame, maybe check for loose wire connections.

Next step is with a multimeter or experienced pro.
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Old 05-17-2019, 06:39 AM   #9
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Even if you have a flame at the pilot light, your propane may not be at the correct pressure....I had that problem once. My fridge was burning, but wasn't cooling enough. I had to adjust my regulator...Fortunately my trailer has an inline dial gauge or manometer that let's me see the propane pressure. Adjusting was easy....Many don't have that gauge, so you have buy or make a manometer.
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Old 05-17-2019, 06:55 AM   #10
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Attached is a (dark) photo of the back of the fridge. Where is the flame located? There are also some disconnected terminals on the right. Is something supposed to go here? I can take take a better photo during daytime if needed.
Lots of useful but also confusing information here. As many have indicated there are lots of issues that may be affecting the operation of the refrigerator on propane.

I'd start on a more basic level... When you change the refrigerator operation from electric to propane do you hear the propane solenoid open and ignitor spark a few times? Immediately after that you should hear the burner turn on - a slight "woosh" sound. If that's not happening you at least have a starting place for troubleshooting.

The picture you attached appears to be the upper access door. The ignitor and "woosh" will be located in the lower access door. That's where the burner and other electronics are located.

In your picture there is a small, very ineffective, fan. Does it ever turn on? I think the two terminals shown in your picture are a thermistor (or other temperature sensitive switch) that is supposed to active the fan. I'm not an expert on such matters but I've seen this mentioned in other threads.

Adding more, and larger fans, to the access door may help. There is at least one thread on the subject on Air Forums.
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Old 05-17-2019, 09:25 AM   #11
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Shazam....Attached is a picture of the refrigerator compartment on my 2007 25' Safari. The gas burner is located in the lower right side of the compartment under the metal cover. The propane flame is very small and is difficult to see if the sun is bright. The vertical circular stack on the right side should get very hot when the refrigerator is operating on propane. I would open up the area around the burner and see if there is anything obstructing the burner from heating properly.
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Old 05-17-2019, 10:09 AM   #12
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If its working on electric but not on propane and you got plenty of gas, it could be a bad control module. Once mine was replaced it works great cycling between 3way as needed.

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Old 05-17-2019, 10:24 AM   #13
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I keep a 10 pound bag of ice bought at Dollar General in my freezer when boondocking. Keeps refer and freezer colder so I don't burn as much propane.
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Old 05-17-2019, 10:35 AM   #14
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We have the opposite problem, works great on propane, but doesn't work on shore power. Initially before "igniting" the refrigerator, we turn on the gas burners (stove) to sort of prime the pump as it were. If you have a hard time figuring out if your refrigerator is "lit", wait until dark and go out and check, you'll be able to see the light a lot better. Anyone have a clue why ours doesn't work on shore power?
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Old 05-17-2019, 10:49 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by Shazam View Post
My fridge cools very well when plugged into shore power. When the power is disconnected and I just run on propane, the fridge temp will heat up pretty quickly. The propane tank is full and on. Any thoughts on this?

Thanks
I am not very familiar with a refer as new as yours. My Dometic is 52 years old, but I think the basic burner configuration is the same. The burner stack gets rusty inside and dirty with spider webs and other contaminants in storage. A piece of fine steel wool securely fastened to a thin piece of piano wire and run up and down the tube makes sure the heat is evenly applied. Cover the burner itself with a piece of aluminum foil before doing this. The burner nozzle itself over time develops a coating inside from the propane flowing thru it that cuts down a little bit on the flame. I remove the nozzle every few years and soak it overnight in denatured alcohol to clean and blow it out with compressed air. Never try to put anything other than solvent and compressed air thru the nozzle as the slightest scratch will disrupt the flame. This always improves the cooling with gas for me. Hope this helps
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Old 05-17-2019, 10:53 AM   #16
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We have the opposite problem, works great on propane, but doesn't work on shore power. Initially before "igniting" the refrigerator, we turn on the gas burners (stove) to sort of prime the pump as it were. If you have a hard time figuring out if your refrigerator is "lit", wait until dark and go out and check, you'll be able to see the light a lot better. Anyone have a clue why ours doesn't work on shore power?
dnas.....Your 120 volt A/C electric heating element may not be working. Below is the way to check if the element is good or not.

Heating Element
The heating element is designed to deliver a predetermined amount of heat to the cooling unit. To check a heating element, remove the heater leads from the printed circuit board and measure for proper resistance across the two leads with a properly calibrated ohm meter. This check is to be done with the heating element at room temperature. You should obtain the following readings ± 10%:
Model, RM2351-4, RM2451-4, RM 2551-4: 80 ohms, 175 watts, 1.5 amps
Models RM2652, RM2662-3, RM2852, RM2862: 44 ohms, 325 watts, 2.7 amps.
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Old 05-17-2019, 10:55 AM   #17
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I have experienced this.

There are two fixes.

If using propane from AUTO, switch from AUTO to Propane and turn OFF fridge, then turn it back ON.

Use AUTO only when shore power is available, and switch to propane when on propane.

I know AUTO is supposed to be "AUTO", but it is a hit and miss in my experience.

Others will chime in on other possible causes such, level, fan, elevation, etc.
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Old 05-17-2019, 11:39 AM   #18
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Fridge temp on propane

Quote:
Originally Posted by dnas View Post
We have the opposite problem, works great on propane, but doesn't work on shore power. Initially before "igniting" the refrigerator, we turn on the gas burners (stove) to sort of prime the pump as it were. If you have a hard time figuring out if your refrigerator is "lit", wait until dark and go out and check, you'll be able to see the light a lot better. Anyone have a clue why ours doesn't work on shore power?

Error
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Old 05-17-2019, 03:20 PM   #19
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. . .
I know AUTO is supposed to be "AUTO", but it is a hit and miss in my experience.
. . .
^^^^^ x2

We always manually switch from Auto [shore power] to Gas [propane], as circumstances dictate.

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Old 05-17-2019, 03:23 PM   #20
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Thought from left field

You mention that it works well on shore power (presumably in your driveway or a campsite) but not on propane when boondocking.

Is it possible that you are seeing the effect of different locations, not different fuels?

As others noted above, our fridge cools better on propane.

If I am parked in the shade or on a cool day (maybe in your driveway?) the fridge cools well. If the trailer is in the heat, especially with the fridge side in the sun, nothing keeps the temp from rising throughout the day.

Just a thought.
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