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Old 01-28-2015, 10:21 PM   #15
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I was off on the grip. I was reading the "length below head" or whatever it is called. The grip is more like a quarter inch.


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Old 01-31-2015, 12:01 AM   #16
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JC sells an Airstream rivet kit which includes a variety of the rivets used, along with the correct numbered drill. The kit includes the riveting tool and can also include the shaver for shaving the heads of the Olympic rivets. I bought the kit with the shaver and have used the shaver several times (on friends' trailers - mine never needed any exterior rivets). https://store.airstream.com/product/...t-with-shaver/
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Old 02-10-2015, 10:23 PM   #17
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Ok, rivet report. Used the 1/4 inch aluminum rivets from Lowe's. Worked perfectly. Cannot tell it is a replacement. This is on the interior.

CAVEAT: someone posted a suggestion to put blue painter's tape over the hole and then rivet it through that so that when the rivet gun cuts it off, the stupid gun does not slide across the panel leaving a huge scratch. I used the tape and am darned glad I did.

Photo below.





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Old 02-11-2015, 06:59 AM   #18
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Perfect looks great. Thanks for the photo. I have not had to do that yet,however, I'm sure at some point I will.


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Old 02-11-2015, 07:56 AM   #19
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Point of clarification - are there some aluminum rivets with steel mandrels and some with aluminum mandrels, or do all aluminum rivets use steel mandrels?

If an aluminum rivet with an aluminum mandrel were available, I suppose it would be the best choice from the standpoint of corrosion /rust staining, but on the downside, it would generate much less clamping force.


Seems to me the only ones I have seen are aluminum rivets with steel mandrels - maybe that is the only practical type?

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Old 02-11-2015, 07:42 PM   #20
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I am not sure about the aluminum/steel mandrel issue, and I cannot check because the Airstream is stored 20 min away, and all the rivets are stored in it. Since it is on the interior, I did not think it would matter.


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Old 02-12-2015, 04:51 PM   #21
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Aluminum rivets with aluminum mandrels are very common. The package should be labelled. Aluminum/Aluminum should be the only rivets used to prevent oxidation.


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Old 02-12-2015, 06:02 PM   #22
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Steel and aluminum--a potentially corrosive mix if you're near a salty environment. There are definitely all aluminum rivets available, and that's what you should be using! They are less strong than steel, but if there enough if them and of sufficient diameter, they'll do the job. Also easier to pull and less likely to scratch--that's why the blue painters tape is to be used, too.
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Old 02-12-2015, 06:19 PM   #23
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Quote:
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Aluminum rivets with aluminum mandrels are very common. The package should be labelled. Aluminum/Aluminum should be the only rivets used to prevent oxidation.


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Thanks - I'll be looking for the alum/alum designation in future. I think pretty much all the pop rivets I have on hand are likely alum/steel.

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Old 02-12-2015, 07:51 PM   #24
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How do you know if there is a broken rivet on AS' s like my 03 classic with covered interior? Maybe ignorance is bliss?!?
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Old 02-14-2015, 09:59 AM   #25
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How do you know if there is a broken rivet on AS' s like my 03 classic with covered interior? Maybe ignorance is bliss?!?
DAVE THE NEW STREAMER
Dave, either the head will have popped off or you'll notice the seam isn't fastened behind the head if it's sheared off in between.

I am getting started putting my inside skins back. I started with some rivets from VTS and found they left a nice clean head when they popped. Then I got some more rivets from Harbor Freight and found the shanks wouldn't pop off or even when they did they'd leave a protrusion and looked bad even after grinding.

Take away, VTS has the right sizes and what seems to be better quality than I can find locally.
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Old 02-14-2015, 11:59 AM   #26
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Dave, either the head will have popped off or you'll notice the seam isn't fastened behind the head if it's sheared off in between.

I am getting started putting my inside skins back. I started with some rivets from VTS and found they left a nice clean head when they popped. Then I got some more rivets from Harbor Freight and found the shanks wouldn't pop off or even when they did they'd leave a protrusion and looked bad even after grinding.

Take away, VTS has the right sizes and what seems to be better quality than I can find locally.
VTS sells all aluminum rivets vs. the aluminum with steel mandrel rivets you typically find at local and big box hardware stores. The aluminum mandrel is preferred and makes for a cleaner release.
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Old 02-14-2015, 12:18 PM   #27
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Huh, the ones I got from Harbor say Aluminum but they sure don't break off clean. And no way I am going to risk having steel fastened to any aluminum having seen what mixed metal connections have done over the years already. Thanks.
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Old 12-18-2015, 03:36 PM   #28
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So is there typically a gap between the interior aluminum skin and the rib it's attached to? I lost one of my 2015 International Signature 25 and I was trying to determine where it fastens to the rib or other material but poking back there all I can feel is what I believe to be a rib with about 1/4" gap between the skin and rib, does this make sense? I tried pushing on the skin to make sure it's where it should be and there doesn't seem to be enough flex for it to have ever been directly on the rib. This is on the curved skin extending to the ceiling in the bedroom.
Any help is much appreciated.
Thanks!
Zach
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