Interior Rivets, what do they hold?

[TG Twinkie]

Aluminum rivets with aluminum mandrels are very common. The package should be labelled. Aluminum/Aluminum should be the only rivets used to prevent oxidation.


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[gecko]

Steel and aluminum--a potentially corrosive mix if you're near a salty environment. There are definitely all aluminum rivets available, and that's what you should be using! They are less strong than steel, but if there enough if them and of sufficient diameter, they'll do the job. Also easier to pull and less likely to scratch--that's why the blue painters tape is to be used, too.

[Wingeezer]

Originally Posted by TG Twinkie

Aluminum rivets with aluminum mandrels are very common. The package should be labelled. Aluminum/Aluminum should be the only rivets used to prevent oxidation.


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Thanks - I'll be looking for the alum/alum designation in future. I think pretty much all the pop rivets I have on hand are likely alum/steel.

Brian

[wvstreamer]

How do you know if there is a broken rivet on AS' s like my 03 classic with covered interior? Maybe ignorance is bliss?!?
DAVE THE NEW STREAMER

[Airwave503]

Originally Posted by wvstreamer

How do you know if there is a broken rivet on AS' s like my 03 classic with covered interior? Maybe ignorance is bliss?!?
DAVE THE NEW STREAMER

Dave, either the head will have popped off or you'll notice the seam isn't fastened behind the head if it's sheared off in between.

I am getting started putting my inside skins back. I started with some rivets from VTS and found they left a nice clean head when they popped. Then I got some more rivets from Harbor Freight and found the shanks wouldn't pop off or even when they did they'd leave a protrusion and looked bad even after grinding.

Take away, VTS has the right sizes and what seems to be better quality than I can find locally.

[AnnArborBob]

Originally Posted by Airwave503

Dave, either the head will have popped off or you'll notice the seam isn't fastened behind the head if it's sheared off in between.

I am getting started putting my inside skins back. I started with some rivets from VTS and found they left a nice clean head when they popped. Then I got some more rivets from Harbor Freight and found the shanks wouldn't pop off or even when they did they'd leave a protrusion and looked bad even after grinding.

Take away, VTS has the right sizes and what seems to be better quality than I can find locally.

VTS sells all aluminum rivets vs. the aluminum with steel mandrel rivets you typically find at local and big box hardware stores. The aluminum mandrel is preferred and makes for a cleaner release.

[Airwave503]

Huh, the ones I got from Harbor say Aluminum but they sure don't break off clean. And no way I am going to risk having steel fastened to any aluminum having seen what mixed metal connections have done over the years already. Thanks.

[deadlock]

So is there typically a gap between the interior aluminum skin and the rib it's attached to? I lost one of my 2015 International Signature 25 and I was trying to determine where it fastens to the rib or other material but poking back there all I can feel is what I believe to be a rib with about 1/4" gap between the skin and rib, does this make sense? I tried pushing on the skin to make sure it's where it should be and there doesn't seem to be enough flex for it to have ever been directly on the rib. This is on the curved skin extending to the ceiling in the bedroom.
Any help is much appreciated.
Thanks!
Zach

[Ronman]

One thing I've learned. If you find an inordinate number of rivets shearing off, check your hitch setup. Having your hitch set up correctly creates less stress for the unit.