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Old 04-10-2015, 02:22 PM   #15
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Junk that thing and get a Progressive Dynamics converter. The Parallax unit cooks batteries. Ask me how I know.
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Old 04-10-2015, 02:49 PM   #16
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You can easily disconnect the converter by flipping it's 120VAC circuit breaker to the 'off' position, thereby removing the 130VAC power to it.


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Old 04-10-2015, 04:05 PM   #17
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Parallax

Wikipedia has the definition of a Parallax. Parallax - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
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Old 04-10-2015, 04:35 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by ckottum View Post
The Parallax converter/charger cannot be unplugged. The Battery Disconnect in "STORE" position just isolates it from the batteries; all of the 12v system is in use and powered by the Parallax converter/charger when on external power. The batteries are then kept charged by the factory solar system.

The idea is to protect the batteries from being damaged by the single stage charger of the Parallax cover/charger, saving the expense of replacing it while it is working fine as a 12vdc power supply.

cheryl
Wow, I wonder why they changed that. Both my old OEM Parallax and my replacement IOTA DLS just plug into a wall outlet down low under the sofa behind the electrical center. I just unplug it from the wall whenever I want to use solar trickle charging, but still want lights, etc. to work when I walk in.
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Old 04-10-2015, 05:11 PM   #19
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I still have the original charger in our 2005. I put new AGM batts in when I bought the trailer used about 6 years ago and they still seem fine.

I do remove them and bring them to the house when the trailer is in storage, and I also put quick disconnects on the cables and if we are camped anywhere for more than a couple of days, I disconnect them for the duration of our stay. Not really sure if that helps or not with the longevity of the AGM batts, but it couldn't hurt - I dont think!

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Old 04-10-2015, 06:37 PM   #20
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You can easily disconnect the converter by flipping it's 120VAC circuit breaker to the 'off' position, thereby removing the 130VAC power to it.
That would work too, but then it's up to the batteries and solar system to run the 12vdc equipment. In our case where we are traveling in this rig 7 months a year, the daily discharging of the batteries would take a toll on them.

My suggestion to set the Battery Switch to "STORE" to isolate the batteries from the converter (when on external power) is primarily for those who may want an interim solution for the parallax until they upgrade, or for those who just want to get along with it as we do.

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Old 04-10-2015, 08:10 PM   #21
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That would work too, but then it's up to the batteries and solar system to run the 12vdc equipment. In our case where we are traveling in this rig 7 months a year, the daily discharging of the batteries would take a toll on them.

My suggestion to set the Battery Switch to "STORE" to isolate the batteries from the converter (when on external power) is primarily for those who may want an interim solution for the parallax until they upgrade, or for those who just want to get along with it as we do.

cheryl
Boy, your store switch must be wired completely differently than mine. When mine is in store, the converter is still connected to the batteries, but the ENTIRE 12V system (all lights, pump,fans, etc.) are shut down and isolated from the batts and the converter.
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Old 04-10-2015, 08:19 PM   #22
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Boy, your store switch must be wired completely differently than mine. When mine is in store, the converter is still connected to the batteries, but the ENTIRE 12V system (all lights, pump,fans, etc.) are shut down and isolated from the batts and the converter.
Really????

In all of the electrical upgrades that I have done, the Use/Store switch simply disconnects the converter from the positive bus bar, which is also fed from the battery positive terminal.

With the switch in 'store', and the positive bus bar and hence the batteries are isolated from the converter. It will simply send a constant 13.6VDC into the fuse block that provides power to ALL of your DC circuits (assuming, of course, that it's a Parallax. 3-stage converters will not 'see' a battery and will also provide this constant voltage at whatever their output is set to.

I have lots of folks in FL that permanently attach their rigs to their concrete pads with hurricane straps, leaving the RVs for the summer when they head back north. I have removed many batteries, as they are not needed to provide 12VDC for the RVs UNLESS they are on the road, which they will probably never see again.

In this instance, the converters only provide the DC voltage for all of the interior DC loads and control voltage and do not perform any battery charging.........'cause they ain't there no more!!!
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Old 04-10-2015, 08:30 PM   #23
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Nope, Lew. The Classics form my era have a manual store switch between the positive buss bar and the 12V distribution fuse block.
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Old 04-10-2015, 08:38 PM   #24
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Nope, Lew. The Classics form my era have a manual store switch between the positive buss bar and the 12V distribution fuse block.
Pretty easy to re-wire!
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Old 04-10-2015, 08:40 PM   #25
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Nope, Lew. The Classics form my era have a manual store switch between the positive buss bar and the 12V distribution fuse block.
My 2009 Classic is also wired this way.
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Old 04-10-2015, 08:42 PM   #26
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Here is a pic of the inside of my electrical center door, showing the backside of the store switch. the single cable to the switch originates at the positive buss bar.

Click image for larger version

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Here is the Buss bar (with breakers). 2 red wires (one from each batt) and one from the old Parallax (at top); and one red (at bottom) going to store switch

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The only original routing that was changed was to move the Propane sensor/alarm downstream from the store switch so it's parasitic drain would not be present when in store.
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Old 04-10-2015, 08:45 PM   #27
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Lew, I don't want it re-wired. I think there are different definitions of "store". Store to me means "batts installed, unit in storage with no 120V power, and as little parasitic drain as possible".

If I have 120V power available (as I will soon as my pad is poured at home) I would just unplug the converter from the wall to "isolate" the batts and 12V system from the converter.
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Old 04-10-2015, 08:48 PM   #28
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Lew, I don't want it re-wired. I think there are different definitions of "store". Store to me means "batts installed, unit in storage with no power, and as little parisitic drain as possible.
I agree. I like mine wired this way.
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