No Power at Jack

[jerryc41]

The electric jack doesn't work, so I checked the wires, and there's no power. Looking under the A-Frame, the power wire (white) has small sections of insulation gone, as if it had been chewed off by mice.

Where does that wire connect to inside?
How does it get inside?
Is there a fuse for it?

[CanoeStream]

Are your coach batteries on the A-frame behind the tanks or in a compartment? '73 Sovereign - I'd think the battery is in a compartment.

Can you check continuity between your nibbled wire and the frame? The return path for current to/from the jack is via the frame.

A-frame battery setups have an inline fuse between the battery and jack. I don't recall if my '74 Argosy had that.

[Splitrock]

My trailer is wired to the USA diagram. The 12 volt wire to the jack and breakaway switch from the battery is not fused. The 12 volt charge line from the tow vehicle to the trailer battery is fused at 25 amps.

[jerryc41]

Thanks, Splitrock. According to the diagram, there is a black wire running from the fusebox under the stove from a 25 amp fuse to the jack. That's positive? I have two wires coming out of the A-frame, a black and a white or yellow. The breakaway switch is grounded to the A-frame. So, to get the jack working...?

[jerryc41]

Originally Posted by CanoeStream

Are your coach batteries on the A-frame behind the tanks or in a compartment? '73 Sovereign - I'd think the battery is in a compartment.

Can you check continuity between your nibbled wire and the frame? The return path for current to/from the jack is via the frame.

A-frame battery setups have an inline fuse between the battery and jack. I don't recall if my '74 Argosy had that.

Battery is in a compartment next to the door. There is no continuity between the nibbled wire and the frame.

[Splitrock]

The previous owned had removed the 7-way fuse block, disconnected the breakaway switch and spliced into the charge line in the umbilical cable to power the jack. To sort it all out, I disconnected everything at the 7-way. I installed a new fuse block, new cord, and wired the breakaway switch according to the diagram. Both wires connected to the breakaway switch are hot. The "in" line is hot all the time and not fused. That's shared with the jack. The "out" line applies the wheel brakes and is only hot when the breakaway switch pin is pulled.

There should be no electrical ground associated with the breakaway switch. It's job is only to open or close one hot wire. I used a 12 volt jumper light, a small battery charger, a small multi-meter, and a 7-way tester to wire the 7-way trailer connection and the cord. When I wired my trailer according to the above diagram, everything worked.

I have since removed the electric powered jack and replaced it with a manual sidewinder jack.

[jerryc41]

Originally Posted by Splitrock

The previous owned had removed the 7-way fuse block, disconnected the breakaway switch and spliced into the charge line in the umbilical cable to power the jack. To sort it all out, I disconnected everything at the 7-way. I installed a new fuse block, new cord, and wired the breakaway switch according to the diagram. Both wires connected to the breakaway switch are hot. The "in" line is hot all the time and not fused. That's shared with the jack. The "out" line applies the wheel brakes and is only hot when the breakaway switch pin is pulled.

There should be no electrical ground associated with the breakaway switch. It's job is only to open or close one hot wire. I used a 12 volt jumper light, a small battery charger, a small multi-meter, and a 7-way tester to wire the 7-way trailer connection and the cord. When I wired my trailer according to the above diagram, everything worked.

I have since removed the electric powered jack and replaced it with a manual sidewinder jack.

OK, I'm getting closer. My "fuse block" is a card with a few fuses under the oven. On the forward wall of the trailer, under the couch, is access to the 7-way connector. The wire for the electric jack is coming out of the frame up front.

So, what is the best way for me to get a power wire to the jack?

[Moflash]

On the later models there is a separate loose wire in the battery compartment that must be hooked to positive side of the battery to supply power to the jack.

[jerryc41]

Originally Posted by Moflash

On the later models there is a separate loose wire in the battery compartment that must be hooked to positive side of the battery to supply power to the jack.

Thanks. I'll take a look.

[Splitrock]

Originally Posted by jerryc41

OK, I'm getting closer. My "fuse block" is a card with a few fuses under the oven. On the forward wall of the trailer, under the couch, is access to the 7-way connector. The wire for the electric jack is coming out of the frame up front.

So, what is the best way for me to get a power wire to the jack?

You didn't mention if all the towing lights work and the brakes work as they should.

The fuse block for my 7-way was under the cover behind the front sofa. I removed the sofa, and ended up removing the wall panel street side of the 7-way box to access the breakaway switch wire pair. I read above that you notice wire insulation damage to the breakaway switch power wire. Since that's a hot all the time wire, I may want to think about replacing that pair and checking the others.

That breakaway wire that powers the jack is connected to the 12 volt charge line from the tow vehicle on my trailer. If there's a dead short in that line, there's power supply issues . . . maybe both trailer and tow vehicle. At the least, the main charge line 7-way fuse should be blown as well as the main charge line fuse near the battery. I wouldn't power that until I fix the bare wire.

The issue for me is not the jack as much as the breakaway switch. The switch is a safety item of high importance to me. For me, electric trailer jacks are a nuisance on a good day.

[jerryc41]

Originally Posted by Splitrock

You didn't mention if all the towing lights work and the brakes work as they should.

The fuse block for my 7-way was under the cover behind the front sofa. I removed the sofa, and ended up removing the wall panel street side of the 7-way box to access the breakaway switch wire pair. I read above that you notice wire insulation damage to the breakaway switch power wire. Since that's a hot all the time wire, I may want to think about replacing that pair and checking the others.

That breakaway wire that powers the jack is connected to the 12 volt charge line from the tow vehicle on my trailer. If there's a dead short in that line, there's power supply issues . . . maybe both trailer and tow vehicle. At the least, the main charge line 7-way fuse should be blown as well as the main charge line fuse near the battery. I wouldn't power that until I fix the bare wire.

The issue for me is not the jack as much as the breakaway switch. The switch is a safety item of high importance to me. For me, electric trailer jacks are a nuisance on a good day.

The trailer has been sitting since 2000, and I no longer have a tow vehicle. I'm getting it ready to sell. The last time I used it, everything worked fine. All the fuses on the board under the oven are OK.

You can crank the trailer up all right with a manual jack?

[Gene]

We have a newer (2008) model, so things may be very different. In ours there is a jack inline fuse under the tongue. It is an unusual sized fuse and I've only been able to find it in RV stores. The wire goes directly to the battery. The jack is grounded to the tongue by being bolted to it. Sounds like your is wired differently, but there has to be a fuse somewhere. Trace the wire and use a tester at the fuse block to make sure electricity is getting to the fuse and after the fuse. Sometimes a fuse is blown, but you can't see it.

Even if this is not the problem, you should check the gears in the jack to make sure they are greased. After all these years, the grease may have dripped off the gears, they won't move well and may blow fuses. if water got in there, rust may have locked the gears if they are metal. Humidity could do it too. Newer gears are plastic.

It is possible critters eating insulation may have shorted the jack with their bodies. I wonder why mice find insulation so tasty?—or do they make nests with it? Then you might find a carcass under there unless another critter carried it off for a family dinner. There would have to be power to the wire for that to happen.

Gene

[Splitrock]

Originally Posted by jerryc41

The trailer has been sitting since 2000, and I no longer have a tow vehicle. I'm getting it ready to sell. The last time I used it, everything worked fine. All the fuses on the board under the oven are OK.

You can crank the trailer up all right with a manual jack?

Yes! Cranks easy, works 24 hours a day, rain or shine without electric.

This is the one I used. The crank is in front.



A-Frame Trailer Jack
Bulldog (Part Number: HB-155010)

Trailer Hitches, Hitch Accessories, Hitch Wiring

Fast ship, great company to order from. It bolted right on my trailer.

`

[jerryc41]

Originally Posted by Gene

We have a newer (2008) model, so things may be very different. In ours there is a jack inline fuse under the tongue. It is an unusual sized fuse and I've only been able to find it in RV stores. The wire goes directly to the battery. The jack is grounded to the tongue by being bolted to it. Sounds like your is wired differently, but there has to be a fuse somewhere. Trace the wire and use a tester at the fuse block to make sure electricity is getting to the fuse and after the fuse. Sometimes a fuse is blown, but you can't see it.

Even if this is not the problem, you should check the gears in the jack to make sure they are greased. After all these years, the grease may have dripped off the gears, they won't move well and may blow fuses. if water got in there, rust may have locked the gears if they are metal. Humidity could do it too. Newer gears are plastic.

It is possible critters eating insulation may have shorted the jack with their bodies. I wonder why mice find insulation so tasty?—or do they make nests with it? Then you might find a carcass under there unless another critter carried it off for a family dinner. There would have to be power to the wire for that to happen.

Gene

I can see only about 1' of wire coming out of the A-frame. Then it goes into the frame, and it's gone, so there's no way to look for a fuse. It looks like I'll have to sell it with some dead wire.

[jerryc41]

Originally Posted by Splitrock

Yes! Cranks easy, works 24 hours a day, rain or shine without electric.

This is the one I used. The crank is in front.



A-Frame Trailer Jack
Bulldog (Part Number: HB-155010)

Trailer Hitches, Hitch Accessories, Hitch Wiring

Fast ship, great company to order from. It bolted right on my trailer.

`

Looks good, but it still leaves me with dead wires and no breakaway switch.

[Gene]

Jerry, it does look like it is very different. But, there has to be a fuse somewhere. Tracing wires that disappear can be a pain.

Gene

[Splitrock]

Originally Posted by jerryc41

Looks good, but it still leaves me with dead wires and no breakaway switch.

Good wishes repairing that.


`

[jerryc41]

Originally Posted by jerryc41

I can see only about 1' of wire coming out of the A-frame. Then it goes into the frame, and it's gone, so there's no way to look for a fuse. It looks like I'll have to sell it with some dead wire.

I removed the jack and tested it with another battery - no movement, although the light would turn on. I bought a new jack, but I am still left with the dead wires up front.

[jerryc41]

Originally Posted by jerryc41

I removed the jack and tested it with another battery - no movement, although the light would turn on. I bought a new jack, but I am still left with the dead wires up front.

Problem solved! When we had a new fridge installed a few years ago, they ran a wire from the battery, under the trailer, and into the fridge. I did the same thing with the jack. I ran a wire from the battery, under the trailer, up to the jack. I enclosed the wire in clear vinyl tubing and used cable ties to attach it to the gas line.

My next challenge is getting the brake wire to the new breakaway switch. At the wheels, I have a black wire and a gray wire coming out of a covering labeled "Brake Cable." Red wires run from the black and the gray wires to the wheel. I have to find out which wire is the brake wire. Then I'll use the vinyl tubing and cable ties to bring it forward.