Visit our Popular Forums

davidz71 · 04-16-2006, 08:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SilverToy

Hello all -

I also did the entire trailer marker light swap out with LED's. It looks TERRIFIC! It is almost reason enough to put the flasher in after dark... just to see that baby light up!!!!

I used the LED-R-US lights. They are basically a striaght swap.

I did do a couple of mods based on light location. I will try to explain here since I can't get the photo upload to work.... I need help with that, if anyone can assist me.

Back to the lights... The LED's are sealed unit, which is really great - no more water worries.

I will speak to the LED-R-Us lights from this point forward, as that is what I used.

For the amber side markers, the hole/ wire exit point on the trailer did not exactly match the lights pre-determined, pre-molded recess. Therefor I took an air-grinder to the back and made a 'new' recess that allowed to the wire to exit the trailer and fold behind the light.

At this point I should mention that the 'factory' glob of Vulcum ( on my trailer!) was somewhat tough to pull though the factory hole. This stuff was STILL gooey and pliable. Patience and a few pokes inward with a piano wire ( too loosen the hold) and out it came. As the wires were fed back in, I also put a glob of Vulcum on the inbound wires and a small glob over the exit point. Hoping for no water issues - from there at least!

Also, with the lights, the way they were shipped, there was a plugin connector for the + wire which I clipped off. Soldered the + connection from the trailer. Bingo. Never a worry in the future.

That brings me to the neg. side of this marker lights. The way SilverToy was wired, there was a neg. wire that was actually wired to the previous lights. The 'new sealed units' use a simple neg terminal at the screw location. My solution to this was to take the neg. wire and feed it in the recess/ channel that was provided. There is a channel that is molded all the way around the unit.

To address the wire itself going to the screw location, I used the same grinder as above, to provide a small recess/ relief in the rear of the light going to the screw hole - a channel for the wire to the screw hole. This worked very well.

Again, small! dollup of Vulcum on the screw locations so hopefully no leaks there either.

Hope this helps someone thinking about this great update and modification. Easy, great enhancement and fun!

Makes you trailer look better too!

Ciao

Axel

Axel,
All my markers from LED-R-US are still in the box except for the white one I installed on the jack post for illumination of the receiver. I have been wondering how I was going to relieve the plastic base and thought that my Dremel tool would do the trick. Now that you have been sucessful it gives me the push to complete that project. Bright aren't they!

SilverToy · 04-17-2006, 12:06 AM

Craig -

Saw your white LED mount - I think I even asked about it and the jack!? Neat stuff.

Getting that 'new' recess for the wires is not a big deal. I don't have a dremel, so the grinder with a 'pointed cone' stone was the ticket for me. All you really need is an accurate sense of where you need the space, a LIGHT touch - do get into the rear of the circuit board! and off you go.

Not hard - heck, even I can do it!

Actually, before I got the lights mounted I played around with the LED's in my recliner. Used a 9volt battery and WOW! Seeing them got me excited and out of the chair the next weekend to get them mounted.

Whole job took about 3 hours - no speed record but then I was having fun, and there is NO REASON to rush that, is there?

BTW - posted this elsewhere but bears repeating here. Get yourself a blade type HD automotive flasher with 2 blades. This will make the finding of pos/ neg a LOT simpler - simply insert in the 7way plug. And you can use it in a pinch in a roadside emergency if you have to leave the trailer and take the TV for parts or whatever.

Hey, those LED's you are going to mount will make it darn near impossible to miss when they are flashing for all the world to see. Now, if I could find a decent replacement for the tail/ turn/ backup lights.... Those 90 degree bulbs just don't get it for me. Can't wait for when the LED's for this do become available!!! I'll be an "Early Adopter" for that!!!

Peace

Axel

Swanny · 05-19-2006, 11:09 PM

I just received our LED lights from the website everyone referenced here. Our Excella has 2 wires at each running light and I'm trying to figure out how to handle the conversion without cutting into the waterproof light.

Here's a question for our electricians out there. Couldn't I simply put a 'circular eye' at the end of the negative wire and just screw the light into the holes in the trailer? The negative connnection would be made via the screw going into the side of the trailer.

This way I don't have to cut into the casing of the light.

Mitch

GlenCoombe · 05-20-2006, 06:31 AM

Swanny, you got it right. Let the mounting screw secure your ground connection. A lot of sealed LED units only have one wire and depend upon the mounting screw to provide the ground connection.
Good luck with your upgrade.

GlenCoombe · 05-24-2006, 07:43 PM

Well folks it's about time... my Korean contact called yesterday to let me know that the LED prototype boards are on the way to me for evaluation. I'll post soon my findings.
Good things come to those who wait...and wait... Peking wasn't built in a day.

outofcontrol · 05-26-2006, 02:20 AM

You can count me in for a set when you get them. I just ordered the LED running lights, and I'll need some tail lights to match. Sounds cool!
-Kevin

cooperhawk · 05-26-2006, 08:05 AM

New mirrors and now new pergoe floor. I finished new exhaust system yesterday. I am ready for LED lights. Just let me know.

outofcontrol · 06-02-2006, 01:01 PM

By no means do I want to subvert your project Glen, but if this is workable, it might be alot easier. I think I'm going to order one to see if it works.

Website Link

These look like they'd do the trick:

1157-PCB-R36 Red LED lamp

12VDC 1157 Base (dual intensity) with 1-1/2 square LED cluster
36 Red LED lamp designed for restricted access and right angle applications
Select Narrow 15 degree or Wide 100 degree Beam Pattern
$ 9.95

This unique LED Lamp is offered exclusively by Super Bright LEDs Inc. The two piece design is suited for installation in tight overhead lighting applications where other LED bulbs will not work effectively. After the base is plugged into the socket, the LED board can be affixed with double-sided foam tape or, due to their extremely low heat generation, the LED board can be simply laid on the diffuser lens.

Weather proofing features include epoxy filled base and clear coated circuit board.

PCB measures 1-1/2 x 1-1/2 x 1/2 inch, wires are 2 inches long

Designed for overhead lighting in boats, campers, box trucks, etc.
POLARITY SENSITIVE
if lamp does not light you MUST either swap
power wires on your socket or on the lamp

Available types:
1156 White 1156 Red 1156 Amber 1157 Red 1142 White
194 (mini wedge base) White

Current Draw @ 12VDC:
24 LED - 85ma
36 LED - 123ma

SilverToy · 06-02-2006, 02:27 PM

OutofC -

That looks like it might work. What type lens are you fitting behind?

Be sure to keep us all posted on your progress.

Thanks!

Axel

clancy_boy · 06-02-2006, 06:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by outofcontrol

By no means do I want to subvert your project Glen, but if this is workable, it might be alot easier. I think I'm going to order one to see if it works.

I would like to know the results of this test.

ROBERTSUNRUS · 06-02-2006, 11:56 PM

Hi, thank you. [outofcontrol] This site or supplier has flat square super white LEDs for 1156. I have been looking for something to use in my porch light that i can leave on for long periods of time without running the batteries down and melting the porch light lense.

Bob

cooperhawk · 06-15-2006, 07:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cooperhawk

Okay, I went out to the barn with the camera. Here are the pictures. They don't really show the light as they appear. It is dark in the barn and the flash made the led's look yellow in the picture. They are not. In the photos, both tail lights are on. One is the brake and the other without the brake. Also there is a picture of the reflector with the bulb in backwards.

I did not the look of these 90 degree bulbs. They do not light up the whole lens and I decided to wait until something better came along. I think ourofcontrol has the right idea.

LI Pets · 09-03-2006, 03:47 AM

What happened to this thread?

Did these work?

Quote:

Originally Posted by outofcontrol

By no means do I want to subvert your project Glen, but if this is workable, it might be alot easier. I think I'm going to order one to see if it works.

Website Link

These look like they'd do the trick:

1157-PCB-R36 Red LED lamp

12VDC 1157 Base (dual intensity) with 1-1/2 square LED cluster
36 Red LED lamp designed for restricted access and right angle applications
Select Narrow 15 degree or Wide 100 degree Beam Pattern
$ 9.95

This unique LED Lamp is offered exclusively by Super Bright LEDs Inc. The two piece design is suited for installation in tight overhead lighting applications where other LED bulbs will not work effectively. After the base is plugged into the socket, the LED board can be affixed with double-sided foam tape or, due to their extremely low heat generation, the LED board can be simply laid on the diffuser lens.

Weather proofing features include epoxy filled base and clear coated circuit board.

PCB measures 1-1/2 x 1-1/2 x 1/2 inch, wires are 2 inches long

Designed for overhead lighting in boats, campers, box trucks, etc.
POLARITY SENSITIVE
if lamp does not light you MUST either swap
power wires on your socket or on the lamp

Available types:
1156 White 1156 Red 1156 Amber 1157 Red 1142 White
194 (mini wedge base) White

Current Draw @ 12VDC:
24 LED - 85ma
36 LED - 123ma

GlenCoombe · 09-03-2006, 06:25 AM

Well in fact I've had four new prototypes in a box that remains unopened for the past three weeks. I may find some time today to actually look at them and may even hook up one or two.
So far the key to success in my estimation is coverage of the lens. Some of the offerings are populated to close together or are now wide enough all together. This results in a blob of light rather than the cool, full coverage most of us are looking for.
More soon....

cooperhawk · 09-03-2006, 08:15 AM

Check this link for led's. It was a paralel thread.

http://www.airforums.com/forum...hlight=led%27s

TIMEMACHINE · 09-03-2006, 11:22 AM

Hi all,

Not to be a stickler, but all should use caution in retrofiting any safety lamp on your AS or TV. Running through this thread I have seen a lot of good info and some neat concepts, quite a few sharp Airstreamers out there. However, having a bit of experience in Vehicle safety lighting ( that includes signal, tail, brake, clearance and head lights ), most conversions do not meet the FMVSS (Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards), which is the bible for the DOT ( Department of Transportation). These standards are typically adopted from Standards written by SAE ( formerly known as Society of Automotive Engineers ). Now there is usually no one out there enforcing these strict guidelines, but if you were to be involved in a serious accident, most good personal injury lawyers will have the safety lighting inspected to see if any malfunction or alteration could have been a contributing factor. Example; Your cruising along, come to a red signal, you stop and the guy behind you keeps going right into your rear end. Even if your conversion is 100 times brighter than original, if it is not DOT approved, you are gonna get in the back side one more time.

Here is one of the issues with LED conversions, I think some of you kinda know this already; The FMVSS standard requires very specific angular emmision (viewing) patterns. Single point lamps (most original types are) have a concentric or conical lens configuration designed to emmit the light from the lamp per FMVSS. Since the LED array in the conversion is a multi point lamp, the original lens will not emmit the light to meet the specs. A new optical lens is required to cure this issue. So, if the conversion does not also have a new lens, chances are it is not DOT approved. And dont trust foreign manufacturers who stamp DOT on there products, since there is little or no enforcemnet, they take the risk to make the bucks.

I am 100% in favor of LED lighting, just make sure that you are doing it in a way that keeps you out of trouble. There are many good products out there to satisfy most applications.

John

guy99 · 09-03-2006, 12:46 PM

John (Timemachine),

Good information. You mention:
There are many good products out there to satisfy most applications.

Pointers to products meeting DOT requirements which might fit our application would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

SilverToy · 05-08-2007, 01:06 AM

Thread bump in progress...!!!

Any 'new' info on this issue?? Any DOT approved lights that anyone has tried, liked, hated, ....other??? Any other 'experiments' that you care to share?

Here's hoping.

Axel
SilverToy

PrKim · 02-24-2018, 06:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by scf31

Now these twist in kind, are they "just as good" as the true LEDs? or are they close to them,Car Quest has a kit for boat trailers,I put these in my 77 Caravanner and they look awesome,it took some customizing but when I mash the brakes, you can see them so much better ,

I put these in my Coachmen as the regular lights were barely visible: the whole back lights up great. Was planning to do the same with my 70 Overlander, but the buckets are in such bad shape not sure it is worth it or if better to just put in the led's to begin with.