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GlenCoombe · 11-01-2005, 05:48 AM

59Toaster, I'm a very visual kind of guy. Can you shoot a shot of the inside assembly "reflector" for me? Without the lens on? I'd like to see the orientation of the socket as well as depth.
So far my idea is to make a PCB board populated with high intensity LED's and then to have standoffs on the corners as well as "wings" from each corner out to the screw holes.
Each unit would have a bulb type base on the end of the wire pigtail that could be used by those who do not wish to splice wires. But also with enough wire to allow you to direct connect.
We'll end up with a more passive product that will be held in place by the lens screws.
The board will also have resistors to fool the signal stat into believing that all is well. Some of the LED products give such a low draw that the signal stat goes into default "bulb out" mode and does the rapid flash.
More as it develops.
My guy is coming back from China in about two weeks and I hope he'll have some samples with him or on the way shortly.

markdoane · 11-01-2005, 07:26 AM

If Eric doesn't mind, I will jump in here and save him the time to take pictures.

markdoane · 11-01-2005, 07:45 AM

Here are some picture of the Signal Stat fixture. These were used in the 1960's.

I'm thinking about mounting these outboard of the Bargman 99's, to really light up the back of my Tradewind.

cooperhawk · 11-01-2005, 08:37 AM

A friend of mine online has sent me these sources for LEDs. Some look promising. http://www.superbrightleds.com, http://www.surplusled.com/Merchant2/...n=PROD&Product http://www.led.net/datasheets/auto_index.htmindex.htm

cooperhawk · 11-01-2005, 08:49 AM

Two of the address's in the last post won't work. I tried to correct them and I kept getting fatal errors so just shorten them up and they will work. Sorry about that.

GlenCoombe · 11-01-2005, 11:01 AM

Mark, thanks very much for sheding light on the subject. The wedding cake vintage doesn't look like much trouble. The 66 version looks o.k. as well. Lots to think about in trying to make one retrofit for most units.

A-Merry-Can · 11-01-2005, 01:14 PM

i'm going to sponge off this thread, too. i need to come up with something for my trailer as well (it's got no lights now). i really like the look of the older bargmans with the trim ring. guess i need to order some parts to see what exactly will fit where. if i went witht he 99s instead, what's involved in making the reflectors? just a coffee can lid? that seems too easy!

jp

59toaster · 11-01-2005, 08:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GlenCoombe

The board will also have resistors to fool the signal stat into believing that all is well. Some of the LED products give such a low draw that the signal stat goes into default "bulb out" mode and does the rapid flash.
More as it develops.
My guy is coming back from China in about two weeks and I hope he'll have some samples with him or on the way shortly.

Make the resistor an option please. It defeats one of the gains of a LED...LESS current draw.

While it might be needed for a MH I don't need it for my tow rig. I run a HD electronic flasher that doesn't care about load to deal with the trailer changing the load. My goal is not only the brighter light its less current draw.

I see in my absence some great photos of the 99 lenses was posted.

As you can see the sockets would have to be removed to give the room needed. Other then that a flat panel about 3.5inches in diameter with some 1/4 inch legs to hold it off the metal reflector.

The old coaches like our 59's are wired very funny. The small bulb is the parking light. The low filament on the 1157 was the brake light and the high was turn signal.

Yes you read the right, I didn't stutter. I have the original wire diagrams that came with out coach for setting up the tow vehicle. Seems back in the day they would run a "Brake lite wire" off the KH brake controller. Thats how they found a circuit.

I just finished rewiring my coach and wired it to todays normal set up. The small like and the low filament is parking and the high is now turn.

**jcanavera** · 11-03-2005, 03:53 PM

Just got a call from my dealer (Bill Thomas Camper Sales), that my trailer is ready to pickup after finishing some warranty work. I ordered the LED tail lights and told them they could install them if the labor wasn't over a 1/2 an hour's charge. As it ended up they hadn't done a conversion yet and wanted to do it themselves. So while they said it took a little more than a half hour's time, they honored my request and charged me a half hour's labor which works out to be about $12 a light. They said the before and after was dramatic (as other pictures in this thread show), and they were quite excited that the process went so well, along with the associated results. If I can spring free of work I might try to get up there Saturday and pick up the trailer. I glad they ended up doing the installation so I didn't have to deal with trying to get this done on a cold weekend.

Maybe I'll add a dimmer switch so I don't blind you guys at Moraine View next June....

Jack

GlenCoombe · 11-03-2005, 05:52 PM

59Toaster, I see your point. Will consider all the options.

baldeagle · 11-07-2005, 05:01 AM

"have to pull hard to get the old unit wire slack needed to connect the LED replacement units".... I checked and the outside wires did pull w/o much difficulty. BUT, those inside unit wires are really tight.

Iam concerned about pulling too hard.

Any experiences here would be very helpful.

Thanks,

Dave s.

Pahaska · 11-07-2005, 07:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by davesamuelso

"have to pull hard to get the old unit wire slack needed to connect the LED replacement units".... I checked and the outside wires did pull w/o much difficulty. BUT, those inside unit wires are really tight.

Iam concerned about pulling too hard.

Any experiences here would be very helpful.

Thanks,

Dave s.

Don't worry. They pull hard because the opnenings for the wires were caulked from the inside of the trailer after the taillights were installed. There is a variable amount of caulking at the four openings and some do pull pretty hard. The worst that might happen is to break the old bulb unit while pulling out on it. The wires are strong enough to take a lot of strain. The wires will either pull through the caulking or the caulking will pop out of the hole like a cork (all of mine did).

When installing the new boards, you can put a piece of tubing on the end of a caulking gun cartridge and reach in to caulk the opening with the new board held almost in place. This prevents having a lot of excess wire stuffed behind the new LED board.

baldeagle · 11-07-2005, 02:26 PM

Thanks for the info...

dave

**jcanavera** · 11-12-2005, 12:51 PM

Just picked up the trailer yesterday afternoon. Here's a few pics of the after. My trailer was the first the dealer had done. They told me that while they were putting in mine, some customers there for service saw the results and asked for the same. So they've done another two since then and have now set up a before and after display on their Airstream bar in the showroom. Looks like they will be selling a lot of these.

Jack

ronpovey · 11-12-2005, 02:00 PM

John what kind of caulking did you use in the replacement? Ordered a set through C & G Trailer, much cheaper than in Canada, even with the exchange rate. Friends are bringing them to Palm Springs for us next weekend,just got here on Thursday. Much better weather than up North.

Ron

Pahaska · 11-12-2005, 02:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ronpovey

John what kind of caulking did you use in the replacement? Ordered a set through C & G Trailer, much cheaper than in Canada, even with the exchange rate. Friends are bringing them to Palm Springs for us next weekend,just got here on Thursday. Much better weather than up North.

Ron

I just used what was left of a tube of silicone-based caulk I had in the workshop. I know that silicone will not bond well to aluminum, but there is little chance that much water could get in there anyway and I just wanted to seal up the hole reasonably well and insure that the wires would not vibrate while on the road and ultimately short out.

2airishuman · 11-13-2005, 06:19 PM

way to go jack

looks good.....it's really hard to show with a photo just how bright these lights are compared to the originals....and after dark it's really something.

i suggested that they make a simple display for the lobby and post it on the factory web site...but i'm sure they get lots of suggestions....anyway it's a sure way to show folks...and sell replacements......as your dealer will find.

here's another item that i'm planning to add to the back of the truck. it could also be used on a van and for older trailers could be wired into the brake lights and mounted below the bumper on the drawer lip, or higher at the belt trim....

http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/P...t=led%20lights

it would provide the brake light effect and better turn signals too. i followed a truck last week that had this installed and it's very effective. while this link is from jc whitney no doubt other aftermarket vendors carry them too.

cheers
2air'

airstream4 · 11-16-2005, 08:41 AM

Glen
I have a 78 Tradewind and 78 sovereign with the triple rear light unit using Monarch 9074 and 9075 lens. Owners manual calls for 1156 bulb for stop and turn, 1157 bulb for tail light, and 1156 for backup
Dimensions of screw holes 3-5/8 center to center, 1-3/8 deep
Would be interested in led's
Paul

SafeHarbor · 11-16-2005, 09:05 AM

Just a note for those who have the fiber optic taillight monitor installed on their trailers... The system requires a bulb for the the end of the fiberoptic cable to point at. I would like to have a couple of the LEDs on the back, but I like my taillight monitor, too, so I'll only be doing the two inboard lights when these become available for the 70's trailers.

Lamar

walter1 · 11-18-2005, 01:45 PM

Glen, I'm in for a set to convert my 64 Safari Bargman 99's also. I've been pondering the LED conversion to wedding cake lenses for a while, I think you have it. I'm concerned that they mount free and clear of the lense and the lense mounting screws if possible (the weak link in the Bargman 99 lenses)

Any help I can be let me know, I have photos and would "lend a light" if needed.

I'm also intereted in LEDs for the '64 Bargman teardrop running lights and replacement lenses for them.

By the way Mark's new replacement 99 lenses are great!!

Walter