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malconium · 12-10-2010, 09:13 PM

My PEX tool is also a Zurn which I bought at Home Depot. The following HD site shows what it looks like and lists it for $94 which is a pretty good value in my opinion.

Multi-head Pex Crimp Tool Kit - QCRTMH at The Home Depot

Happy PEXing,

Malcolm

dznf0g · 12-10-2010, 09:16 PM

Thanks, folks. Hopefully I won't need on for awhile, but best to be educated.

Dave Park · 12-10-2010, 09:21 PM

That is not the tool I have. The tool I have comes in a carry case, and contains the Mult-Head Crimp Tool, 3/8" Jaw, 5/8" Jaw, 3/4" Jaw, 1/2" Jaw, Optional Crimp Ring Removal Tool and Crimper Adjustment Tools.

Amazon link

Yours is the basic crimper. The one in this set has a "go/no-go" option that really protects you from improper crimps.

I think that's worth $25 extra alone.

toastie · 12-11-2010, 08:37 AM

This is what I'm go to use to crip my pipes, will have it done in less than a hour, and no leaks, all for under $50.00.......childs play.

toastie

Jabba · 12-11-2010, 09:17 AM

Thanks again for sharing your progress. Awesome work, the level of neatness is inspiring!

Are you going to install unions anywhere or go with sweat all the way to the connections?

toastie · 12-11-2010, 10:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jabba

Thanks again for sharing your progress. Awesome work, the level of neatness is inspiring!

Are you going to install unions anywhere or go with sweat all the way to the connections?

Thanks,

Yes, the design intent to blow the line's out, no need for antifreeze. The trap's are waterless. Also will remove fresh water tank, for winter storage and to sanitize.

toastie

fastrob · 12-13-2010, 06:22 AM

Is a waterless trap like a flap?

byamcaravanner · 12-13-2010, 08:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fastrob

Is a waterless trap like a flap?

Hepvo Waterless Valve

malconium · 12-13-2010, 10:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dave Park

That is not the tool I have. The tool I have comes in a carry case, and contains the Mult-Head Crimp Tool, 3/8" Jaw, 5/8" Jaw, 3/4" Jaw, 1/2" Jaw, Optional Crimp Ring Removal Tool and Crimper Adjustment Tools.

Amazon link

Yours is the basic crimper. The one in this set has a "go/no-go" option that really protects you from improper crimps.

I think that's worth $25 extra alone.

Perhaps the Home Depot item that I selected is not the right one. Mine did include the extra jaws and ring removal tool. It has the blue colored handles just like in the Amazon photo and otherwise looks identical. I thought from reading the fine print on the ad that it said that the Home Depot one has multiple heads and the removal tool. The Photo at the Home Depot site was just of the tool itself and did not show the case and other parts. Certainly $25 extra would be worth the cost if the Home Depot one does not include these extra things. Mine did though and was less than $100.

Malcolm

Dave Park · 12-13-2010, 10:52 AM

Good to know

Therefore, the good tool set is under $100, and the PEX choice is a little easier

And now back to our originally scheduled toastie...

wheelerimage · 12-16-2010, 09:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by toastie

Next will be paint removal, up to 3 layers..........

Wow. You stripped the paint fast! I just bought a 55 Safari and need to strip it also. What did you use? Someone mentioned CitriStrip if I'm working in the trailer. Or, Aircraft stripper if I remove the panels. Did you use sandpaper? I appreciate anything you can tell me. Thanks!

Scott

utee94 · 12-17-2010, 08:13 AM

I believe Toastie provided some detail on the methods and products he used for stripping, somewhere in this thread.

And that's probably reasonable advice-- citristrip inside, and the nastiest aircraft remover you can find if/when you pull the panels. For me, the citristrip did great at removing multiple layers of latex house paint, did okay at removing the zolatone (took several applications and lots of scraping with plastic putty knives), and was absolutely useless on the baked-on enamel that was used for my overhead lights. The ONLY thing that worked on that baked-on enamel was the aircraft remover, and it worked just about instantly.

Good luck!
-Marcus

toastie · 12-17-2010, 05:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wheelerimage

Wow. You stripped the paint fast! I just bought a 55 Safari and need to strip it also. What did you use? Someone mentioned CitriStrip if I'm working in the trailer. Or, Aircraft stripper if I remove the panels. Did you use sandpaper? I appreciate anything you can tell me. Thanks!

Scott

Try this http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/...t-38289-6.html post 72

toastie

toastie · 12-18-2010, 01:09 PM

Making progress at 15 deg's............toastie

pbearsailor · 12-18-2010, 02:23 PM

Makes our high 30's seem really warm!

Really looking great, quality work as always. I continue to steal ideas from you.

cheers,
steve

toastie · 12-25-2010, 09:50 AM

Going with plexiglass for the above cabinets, subject to change of course. From here on this could become expensive, wife has complete veto power.

toastie

wheelerimage · 12-26-2010, 11:28 AM

I finally finished reading this entire thread. Awsome stuff! I didn't see what you are doing for propane heat or insulation. It looked like reflectix in the walls and fiberglass in the door. I saw you put the panel ray vent cover on the outside. Is that just for looks? I have the original heater in my 55 Safari but I think it is butane and not propane and will have to go.

I learned with my 65 Globetrotter restoration that the old insulation is worthless. I am always curious to see what people use. I am thinking of using polyurethane foam for a higher R value and to help seal against water leaks and mice.

Your thoughts ?

toastie · 12-28-2010, 07:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wheelerimage

I am thinking of using polyurethane foam for a higher R value and to help seal against water leaks and mice.

Your thoughts ?

Thanks wheelerimage

I put no insulation below the wood floor, I installed stainless steel vents in the belly pan for ventilation. Fiberglass itself will not support mold growth, but the problem with fiberglass insulation is that once it gets wet or damp from improper floor ventilation, it takes a long, long time to get it completely dry. While it's drying, it's holding moisture in contact with the wood floor and the frame that WILL be affected by prolonged exposure. Wet, damp fiberglass insulation will prevent those materials from drying out and mold could begin to colonize.

toastie

toastie · 12-30-2010, 07:10 PM

Almost done with the mock-up design stage, big change's will come to a end and will get more detailed. Designed the dinette cushions today, the brown tape represent the back cushions. The dinette will turn into a 54"x 72" bed. The back of the dinette will be a shoe rack for 10 pairs.

toastie