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Aluminescent · 06-25-2014, 09:41 AM

Hello everyone, I suppose this post may set off a flurry of responses,and I hope it does as I enjoy reading and respect everyones point of view.Has anyone used or considered using these "snaptoggle" heavy duty toggle bolts?(www.toggler.com) The 1/4" size states a 1/2" hole ,(I have used slightly smaller holes) and the attached nylon plug fills the hole nicely.You can remove and replace the bolts without losing the "toggle nut" The 1/4" size is rated over a thousand pounds in concrete. I have a 1970 LY that has frame separation fore and aft.and hope to begin repairs soon. I am thinking of giving them a try on the AS,just use a fender washer with the bolts. I have used these fasteners several times on various projects other than my AS with good results.....OK....GO!...

Bunkroom · 07-06-2014, 07:36 PM

There are other options that can do what you are trying to do without a 1/2" hole. I have thought of using Toggler many times for my floor and I just can't make sense out of making that big of a hole in the outriggers, etc.

Someone else posted a fastener with an end that flips out to hold it in. The hole is the size of the bolt. Nut will need to be recessed in areas with flooring.

Blind Bolt – High Tensile Steel

Bunkroom · 07-06-2014, 07:37 PM

FLIP BOLT Zinc Yellow - Blind Anchor for Steel Structures

Lance M · 07-06-2014, 08:23 PM

Never used anything like that.

If you are going to fix it, I'd recommend you use standard bolts, washers, fender washers, lock washers and nuts.

Silverflames · 07-06-2014, 08:50 PM

Yea I second that, try to keep it simple.

Bunkroom · 07-07-2014, 07:20 AM

I think the point is to not have to have access from underneath the trailer to get the fasteners in. It seems that some belly pans are easier to remove than others. These might be a great option in the case where a "blind" bolt is needed.

Aluminescent · 07-07-2014, 08:01 AM

thanks for the info, I will look into the flip bolts as well. My original thought was to find a way to rebolt the shell to the frame from underneath without removing the skin from the studs. I hope to have all of the belly pan and axles removed this weekend (weather permitting, as the A/S is in an open field). Then I can fully evaluate the extent of repairs needed. Many thanks again, will try to post some pictures when the belly pan is off

Lance M · 07-07-2014, 08:10 AM

Removing the lower interior skin is not hard at all. Just drill out the rivets with an 1/8" or #30 bit. It is certainly a lot easier than removing belly pan. If you are going to do it, you may as well do it right.

A W Warn · 07-07-2014, 08:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aluminescent

Hello everyone, I suppose this post may set off a flurry of responses,and I hope it does as I enjoy reading and respect everyones point of view.Has anyone used or considered using these "snaptoggle" heavy duty toggle bolts?(www.toggler.com) The 1/4" size states a 1/2" hole ,(I have used slightly smaller holes) and the attached nylon plug fills the hole nicely.You can remove and replace the bolts without losing the "toggle nut" The 1/4" size is rated over a thousand pounds in concrete. I have a 1970 LY that has frame separation fore and aft.and hope to begin repairs soon. I am thinking of giving them a try on the AS,just use a fender washer with the bolts. I have used these fasteners several times on various projects other than my AS with good results.....OK....GO!...

I have used a version of those Snaptoggles, more than 20 years ago though. I remember that they would not stand up to over tightening or vibration. The threaded nut portion is a fairly thin insert, so in heavy use situations the threaded part pull through and release the bolt. Maybe they have been improved?

perryg114 · 07-07-2014, 09:03 AM

My trailer uses a box beam so you can't put nuts on it from below anyway. I used 1/4-20 elevator bolts with a slotted head and installed them from the top. You drill the pilot hole then use the drill to tap the hole you just drilled. It is not as hard as it sounds. You may not have enough metal to thread if your frame is rotted.

Perry

Bunkroom · 07-07-2014, 02:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aluminescent

thanks for the info, I will look into the flip bolts as well. My original thought was to find a way to rebolt the shell to the frame from underneath without removing the skin from the studs. I hope to have all of the belly pan and axles removed this weekend (weather permitting, as the A/S is in an open field). Then I can fully evaluate the extent of repairs needed. Many thanks again, will try to post some pictures when the belly pan is off

If your interior is out, it is not really much more work to remove interior skins.

I am using a number of different solutions depending on the exact location to solve difficult fastening needs for floor install.

Can you give more details as to what exactly you are trying to achieve?

Silverflames · 07-07-2014, 08:02 PM

If you have frame separation from the body, there is a good chance you will have rotted floor sections that needs to be replaced. Take your time, don't rush, and try to make a quick patch job. That's what I did at first when I started my rear repair, and I ended up making thing a bunch worse. Pull the belly pan so you can see what your working with. Good luck, looking forward to those pic!

Aluminescent · 07-12-2014, 11:45 AM

thanks guys, Bunkroom: yes the interior is complete, and original(except for the hideous red shag carpet)which was removed to expose the original green carpet.I do not have a complete game plan yet, I do have a partial list of repairs and/or modifications that need to be done, but after the belly pan and tanks are removed I should be able to fully evaluate the situation.
Silverflames: yes after extensive reading through the forums I am expecting some floor issues, however the PO kept the AS under cover when he wasn't duck hunting.
So I am hope-full that floor rot will be minimal.I could tell from the holes in the rear frame that he(PO) had a tow hitch for his jeep which explains the slight bend in the frame and axle plate just forward of the front axle. Probably some of the separation was caused by towing a vehicle. Looks like I will be working all weekend at that Job thing, don't know how much I can get done but pictures will be posted soon. thanks again for the ideas and encouragement(I'll be needing it!)

Silverflames · 07-12-2014, 01:39 PM

So the PO was using a AS to double tow?

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Aluminescent · 07-14-2014, 10:24 AM

Hey silverflames, Yes I believe the AS was used to double tow. The PO had passed away and I bought it from his family who lived a few hundred miles away. So I had very little backround on the RV. His neighbor who was helping the family liquidate the estate, had little info other than he used the RV mainly for duck hunting. I did see a tow-bar in the garage that looked like it matched the holes in the frame. The axles are shot by the way, nearly level with the wheels removed. Also the two windows over the twin beds have been replaced with plexiglass. Is it possible that the frame/shell flexed enough to break the windows? Will post some picture when I figure out how.

Silverflames · 07-14-2014, 07:49 PM

Well I guess that speaks to the strength of the AS design. Not made to do it, but it did it any way. It will be interesting to find out what the frame looks like.

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AmrcnDrifter · 07-23-2014, 01:03 PM

Hi Perry, is this the standard size for all airstreams? (re: elevator bolts) I want to go to the Fasten All store here in SATX and order them but, want to make sure I request the right size before I put in an order.

Or is there a company you guys may know already that I can order them from? (I didn't see them on Vintagetrailer supply or Outofdoorsmart). Thanks.

Silverflames · 07-24-2014, 08:06 PM

I think the size is 1/4" if I remember correctly. Depending on the location and use you could use other kinds of bolts. I could not find galvanized elevator bolts when I did my rear end, so I used galv 3/8 carriage bolts. I torqued them down until they were counter sunk into the floor. Then I back filled the holes to make them flush. Also used almost x2 the bolts than before.

Have you pulled down the belly pan yet to see what you are working on?

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perryg114 · 07-25-2014, 07:27 AM

Here is what I used for Elevator Bolts. They were a pain to tighten with the flat head. Airstream might have the original phillips head elevator bolts that were used on my trailer. Those would be easier to install.

Perry