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Old 07-26-2014, 05:13 AM   #21
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1958 17' Pacer
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Damascus , Oregon
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I agree the toggle bolts could easily work loose during travel due to vibration.

I don't think the elevator bolts would get more than 2 threads of bite on the steel in the frame, and could pull out, rust out etc ....

The best bet here is the old fashioned way, where the bolt is the weak point and not the connection between materials.

I just finished my shell off and used 3/8th stainless with washers on both sides and a lock washer.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f104...-111301-5.html

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Old 07-26-2014, 11:17 AM   #22
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Yes, would also love to see picture if you have it, perry


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Old 07-26-2014, 02:11 PM   #23
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Ok Let's do this again.

McMaster-Carr

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Old 07-26-2014, 02:34 PM   #24
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1960 26' Overlander
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AmrcnDrifter View Post
Yes, would also love to see picture if you have it, perry Sent from my iPhone using Airstream Forums
Vintage trailer supply has them as well
http://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/...&x=-900&y=-114
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Old 07-26-2014, 02:47 PM   #25
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1981 31' Excella II
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I have never used their floor repair screws. Their elevator bolts cannot be installed from the top. I don't know for sure but I would expect that the floor repair screws would need a pilot hole in something as thick as the frame but they might work in the thinner crossmembers.

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Old 07-26-2014, 08:00 PM   #26
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I know pulling the belly pan is a pain, but is totally work the extra work so you can use bolts with lock washers and nuts. Plus you can see what your bolting threw.


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Old 07-27-2014, 01:58 PM   #27
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1969 23' Safari
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Awesome! Thanks guys, it seems I'll save money by buying the ones from McMaster-Carr AND I get the nuts with the bolts.

Is there any situation in the floor where I WOULD need screws? Should I order both?

PS. I have no belly pan so, I can bolt from the bottom up.
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Old 07-27-2014, 02:24 PM   #28
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We used a combination of elevator bolts, nuts, washers & loctite where we could (frame outriggers & cross bars). On the actual frame members (where there is no access to apply a washer/nut combination), we used self tapping screws and countersunk them to be flush with the floor.
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Old 07-27-2014, 03:32 PM   #29
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You will also need a 1/4-20 tap drill and a 1/4-20 tap to use the McMaster bolts. It is not as hard as it sounds. Drill a whole then put the tap in the drill and run that through the same hole. Then put your bolt in and tighten. It takes some practice.

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