Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 03-05-2013, 01:57 PM   #1
Rivet Master
 
1973 25' Tradewind
Beautiful , Oregon
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 548
Is this plan a sound rear end floor rot patch?

Hi folks,

I am trying to avoid taking down the bathroom dividing wall.

Can a person get away with patching the rear plywood floor rot up to the first cross member only?

This cross member is a full depth one with no 5/8” plywood scap on top like Airstream has when they came to the 4-foot joint with their plywood.

If possible my plan is to go from in the c channel to the first cross member and ˝ lap the two pieces, the existing still solid plywood and the new replacement plywood, Then epoxy glue the ˝ lap and elevator bolt and screw through them both.

I figure it is real strong but don’t want to go wrong.

Do I have to bite the bullet and tear out the wall and go back to the 4’ cross member?

What do you think. Please any advice.

Thanks in advance

Tony Scolaro
Rogue River
__________________

__________________
Tony S is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-05-2013, 03:24 PM   #2
Rivet Master
 
RichardT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 925
Sounds like a great plan to me.
__________________

__________________
RichardT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-05-2013, 04:36 PM   #3
Rivet Master
 
TG Twinkie's Avatar
 
1974 Argosy 26
Morrill , Nebraska
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 5,140
Images: 2
Blog Entries: 5
I agree. Good plan.
__________________
Knowledge: "A gift to be shared. A treasure to receive."
TG Twinkie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-05-2013, 04:57 PM   #4
Rivet Master
 
1973 25' Tradewind
Beautiful , Oregon
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 548
Cool

I will post pics as I proceed.

The plan is to cut with Skil saw, finish up with Multi tool to wall, about a quarter inch on x member. Set up a straight edge and use a straight bit in a router to cut away half of plywood thickness leaving a quarter inch full material of original plywood on x member . So I will have about an inch of material 1/2 lapped in middle. I will epoxy and elevator bolt it together and down. Along with the screws I got from VTS.

I will splice it the same way over the longitudinal frame member so install will be in 2, if not 3 pieces.

I will put epoxy on the edges ahead of time.

I did buy Marine Plywood for the job. It is expensive but probably the best and it is the only one I found that was a full 3/4" (instead of 23/32nd) and matches up with original

Thanks

Tony
__________________
Tony S is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-05-2013, 05:19 PM   #5
Rivet Master
 
eljay's Avatar
 
1968 24' Tradewind
Rural, blink and you'll miss it , Missouri
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 692
Images: 19
I'm subscribing to your thread to check out the photos and progress. Good luck.
__________________
Not knowing enough to be afraid... (I know more than I did, but I did it anyway!)

Eljay

1968 Tradewind Double.
eljay is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-05-2013, 05:34 PM   #6
Rivet Master
 
aquinob's Avatar
 
1973 27' Overlander
Portsmouth , Virginia
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 776
Thats what I'm doing, dont see any problem with it. Do post some pix along the way.
__________________
Bob

Ongoing adventures at:
http://1973overlander.blogspot.com/
aquinob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-05-2013, 06:24 PM   #7
Rivet Master
 
Splitrock's Avatar
 
Currently Looking...
Sioux Falls , South Dakota
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,398
Blog Entries: 20
__________________
Click on the link to see a picture of the Sioux River falls near my home.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...g?t=1278182564
Eastern South Dakota is very pretty with hills, rivers, and trees.
Splitrock is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-05-2013, 10:51 PM   #8
Rivet Master
 
1973 25' Tradewind
Beautiful , Oregon
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 548
Now Moves like Rear End Separation

Thanks for the Posts

The Floor Splice Instructions take the magic or mystery out of it. I would suggest using Titebond Three instead of an Elmers. Titebond Three was not around back then. Water proof.

I will post pictures as I go along. I need to get the Univolt out of the way.

Question Now that I have all the elevator bolts and screw out, and just took out the 2, 3/8 hold down bolts the bumper is moving independent of the body
like it has Rear end separation or something.

I take this is normal due to the lack of the floor being attached and rotted plywood busted away??

Could someone ease my mind.

Tony
__________________
Tony S is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-06-2013, 01:36 AM   #9
Maniacal Engineer
 
barts's Avatar
 
1971 25' Tradewind
Menlo Park , California
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,223
Images: 1
Blog Entries: 4
There is (often) a bent piece of steel that slips under the ply but on top of the frame; this is riveted at the C channel to the skin. Once the plywood is rotten, the skin can move relative to the frame - which is what you're seeing. You need to make sure that metal is sound. I replaced ours as it was completely rusted out with a stainless one I made, and riveted it about 3" up from the C channel as well for extra strength.

While you have the bathroom out, that's the time to really make this (misdesigned) joint strong.

DO remove the steel plate that the rear storage cover hinges on; this is a conduit for water right under the plywood - rot city.

- Bart
__________________
Bart Smaalders
Menlo Park, CA
http://tinpickle.blogspot.com
http://smaalders.net/barts
barts is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-06-2013, 02:25 AM   #10
Rivet Master
 
1973 25' Tradewind
Beautiful , Oregon
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 548
Hi Bart

I read that in one of your previous posts in the past. I don't have the rear storage there being a Land Yacht. I will check it out in the morning. I don't think mine is rotted out but I did see something which may cause me to have to change it out. There seemed to be some decay from dissimilar metals.

I will use stainless as you suggest if I have to.

The thing is the movement wasn't there until I removed the bolts after making a cut across the first x member in from the back.

I will see and post pics

By way I have always enjoyed your post and blog.

Thanks

Tony
__________________
Tony S is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-06-2013, 06:10 PM   #11
Rivet Master
 
1973 25' Tradewind
Beautiful , Oregon
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 548
Well today I cut the some plywood floor out of the bathroom and got a good look at things.

I was pleased the frame wasn’t all rotted out. Quite good. So now all the highest likelihood of rotted frame has been explored . Out riggers look good too, Again that is the good part of paying the price I did for a trailer that was used throught out its life and not left in a field.

Bart, however, knew what he was talking about. The bent steel angle plate is pretty badly corroded. It is there but it is corroded. Also the aluminum that slides in the same area with the hinge on it for the bumper compartment door is showing the results of contact between dissimilar metals.

You can see in the pics I only cut a 6” section out that will be replaced with 10” aluminum flashing and will not show when bathroom is put back together.

I also ended up lightly jacking up the frame in back, mostly stabilizing the trailer as I walk about it.

Anyway the pictures should tell most of the story. Besides that bent piece of steel that slips under the plywood but on top of the frame being bad, I can't complain.

Bart, do you have pictures of the repair you did and any showing the new additional row of rivets?


I have to ask again it is normal in its current state of deconstruction to have movement between the frame and the body?

Tony
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCF0575.jpg
Views:	167
Size:	209.1 KB
ID:	180339   Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCF0584.jpg
Views:	149
Size:	237.8 KB
ID:	180340  

Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCF0581.jpg
Views:	148
Size:	297.9 KB
ID:	180341   Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCF0588.jpg
Views:	152
Size:	194.0 KB
ID:	180342  

__________________
Tony S is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-06-2013, 06:17 PM   #12
3 Rivet Member
 
Protohyp's Avatar
 
1977 31' Excella 500
Los angeles , California
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 201
Send a message via AIM to Protohyp
Yes it is normal...unless you have your stabilizers down the connection of that angle and the shell bolted to the frame keep it as one unit with the shell supporting the frame so without any of those the cantilever behind the axles will be unsupported so the flame will flex. Personally I think if you have that much out why not replace the whole 4' section? I know it might be tedious work but keeping that whole rear section as solid as possible is your best bet at not having to do it over again and it might be arguable that only a 2' section might solve it but you might be able to slip the 4. plywood under the closet walls or whatever walls you have back there.
__________________
Protohyp is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-06-2013, 10:52 PM   #13
Rivet Master
 
1973 25' Tradewind
Beautiful , Oregon
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 548
Thanks for the confirmation of that. Taking it back to 4 feet makes sense I know. I have a strong system with the 1/2 lap epoxy and screws/elevator bolts but I am going to pause and think it through. It seems, quite normal I suspect, I spend many more hours looking for answers and try not to commit any sins.

Tony
__________________
Tony S is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-07-2013, 12:53 AM   #14
Maniacal Engineer
 
barts's Avatar
 
1971 25' Tradewind
Menlo Park , California
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,223
Images: 1
Blog Entries: 4
You really don't want that hinge support under the plywood - work out something better. I'm afraid I repaired the rear end separation largely w/o pictures in a frantic blur of effort while webspinner was in England w/ the good camera.

Here's a cross section of what I did....

I ended up running some heavy aluminum I had between the frame rails to support the storage compartment cover hinge which has worked out fine.

- Bart
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	separation-fix.png
Views:	699
Size:	65.3 KB
ID:	180356  
__________________

__________________
Bart Smaalders
Menlo Park, CA
http://tinpickle.blogspot.com
http://smaalders.net/barts
barts is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 11:48 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.