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Old 04-16-2007, 09:12 AM   #15
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1989 25' Excella
By The Bay , Rhode Island
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillTex
Hi Bob, called POR this a.m.
I think I may go with Rustoleum on tongue and bumper as they are not in bad shape and it sounds like I would have to strip the (good) paint in those areas for POR to be effective.
I will use POR on the heavily rusted exposed frame areas underneath.
I still am not sure if I should mechanically prepare (blast/brush/sand) these areas or just go right over the rust with POR's Metal Ready?
Can I skip the hassle of of sanding/blasting?
What has been your experience?
If results are better with a sanded/blasted surface I will do this, but it is a little confusing as they say a "rusted" surface is better to bond to; HOW MUCH RUST?

Thanx, Bill
Any takers on the surface prep (wire brush) for POR-15?

Thanx, Bill
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Old 04-17-2007, 07:06 AM   #16
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One more time

Any takers on the wire brushing/sanding question?

Appreciate the input/experience!

Bill
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Old 04-17-2007, 07:27 AM   #17
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Take off any rust that is loose or flaking.

If you want to cosmetically fix any pitting, get a tube of POR15 filler. Its just very thick paint. You can use it as a surfacer.

I would definitely use a good cleaning process before you use the Metal-prep.

When you wire brush or blast, you will be transferring a lot of grit and dirt into the surface. I used a thorough wash and wipe with mineral spirits, a good brush scrubbing with a heavy duty detergent, rinse thoroughly, wash again with Marine-Clean, then use the Metal-Prep. Use a pressure washer if you have one.

Let it dry completely before painting.
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Old 04-17-2007, 08:05 AM   #18
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1989 25' Excella
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markdoane
Take off any rust that is loose or flaking.

If you want to cosmetically fix any pitting, get a tube of POR15 filler. Its just very thick paint. You can use it as a surfacer.

I would definitely use a good cleaning process before you use the Metal-prep.

When you wire brush or blast, you will be transferring a lot of grit and dirt into the surface. I used a thorough wash and wipe with mineral spirits, a good brush scrubbing with a heavy duty detergent, rinse thoroughly, wash again with Marine-Clean, then use the Metal-Prep. Use a pressure washer if you have one.

Let it dry completely before painting.
Thanx Mark, that's what I was looking for...
Bill
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Old 04-29-2007, 10:28 PM   #19
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1962 24' Tradewind
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How much POR-15 do you need....

..I am searching the threads, but haven't found the answer yet.

How much POR-15 have folks needed to do their frame with the recommended 2 coats? My frame is 24ft.

Thanks,
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Old 04-29-2007, 11:11 PM   #20
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Hi

I painted my frame and I used up about 2 quarts for one coat. I'm still going to do a 2nd coat soon. Once you open a can of POR15 it's a big pain to close it and keep it fresh for further use, so I would recommend getting smaller cans. So I guess...4 quarts of POR. Of course, the second coat will go on thinner, so maybe three would do it.

What I didn't use on the frame I plan to use on things like my wheel wells or other places that I wanted to treat, so leftovers are good.

You won't regret using POR15 instead of other treatments. Stuff lasts forever. keep a rag nearby so that if you get some on your face, you dont walk around looking like a dalmatian for the next week!

Have fun!
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Old 04-30-2007, 07:38 AM   #21
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sounds like you are heading in the POR-15 direction, myself I dont like it. More of a band aid fix IMO. I am in the process of sandblasting and repainting my frame. A majority of it was still painted and in good shape, the areas of rust are being removed and repaired by myself then primered, and painted. Its lasted 30 years so far, and will last another 30 when I'm done with it.
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Old 04-30-2007, 09:33 AM   #22
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The property that makes POR-15 superior is rust will not undercut the paints' grip on iron, there is no blistering surrounding a knick in a painted surface when using POR-15 .

My 1973 Airstream OEM undercoating was mostly intact inside the ladder frame rails, except at front and rear; everything outside of frame needed rehab though. The original frame paint loaded up anything I tried to use to remove it - and once removed left oily residue persisted after three or more solvent wipes so I rustoleumed those areas... With floor on & belly off I stretched one quart of PO-15 to put three coats where exposed to weather or meant for aluminum contact, and two coats on everything else. I also got their thinner and kept brush core damp with thinnner for smoother application & thinned the last 1/3 of can when it started gelling up from exposure to air.

I am one saw cut from pulling rear bath floor from my AS and want to treat the newly exposed iron, so it looks like I will have to try and use up a second quart meaning everything I painted needs to be surface prepped for the next coat to bond. 3M Corp pancake abrasive discs on a die-grinder worked very well to remove crud before I painted so I will try them to scuff up POR-15 to recoat...
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