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Old 04-30-2007, 06:38 AM   #21
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sounds like you are heading in the POR-15 direction, myself I dont like it. More of a band aid fix IMO. I am in the process of sandblasting and repainting my frame. A majority of it was still painted and in good shape, the areas of rust are being removed and repaired by myself then primered, and painted. Its lasted 30 years so far, and will last another 30 when I'm done with it.
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Old 04-30-2007, 08:33 AM   #22
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The property that makes POR-15 superior is rust will not undercut the paints' grip on iron, there is no blistering surrounding a knick in a painted surface when using POR-15 .

My 1973 Airstream OEM undercoating was mostly intact inside the ladder frame rails, except at front and rear; everything outside of frame needed rehab though. The original frame paint loaded up anything I tried to use to remove it - and once removed left oily residue persisted after three or more solvent wipes so I rustoleumed those areas... With floor on & belly off I stretched one quart of PO-15 to put three coats where exposed to weather or meant for aluminum contact, and two coats on everything else. I also got their thinner and kept brush core damp with thinnner for smoother application & thinned the last 1/3 of can when it started gelling up from exposure to air.

I am one saw cut from pulling rear bath floor from my AS and want to treat the newly exposed iron, so it looks like I will have to try and use up a second quart meaning everything I painted needs to be surface prepped for the next coat to bond. 3M Corp pancake abrasive discs on a die-grinder worked very well to remove crud before I painted so I will try them to scuff up POR-15 to recoat...
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