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03-04-2016, 02:45 PM
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#41
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2 Rivet Member
Ravenswood
, West Virginia
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 38
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Btw....when it comes to the state of the axles. What should I be looking for as far as a sign that the might need replaced. Bear with me...learning as I go here lol
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03-04-2016, 06:41 PM
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#42
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Remember, Safety Third
1973 27' Overlander
Catfish Corners
, Georgia
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,720
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I see much POR-15 in your future, Grasshopper. Actually, the frame looks pretty good, except for the outriggers. I'm surprised to see the boxed frame extending back as far as it does on the main frame rails. In my '73, it stops at the first cross member.
You should have a freshwater, gray-water and black-water tank in a '77, I think. IIRC correctly, the gray water was first offered around '73 and became mandatory by law a few years later. It would be advantageous not to confuse them when you put it all back together.
As far as the axles go......there are volumes written (and many arguments contained within them) here on the forum about that subject. Here's my advice: If they are original, replace them. They are long past their useful lifespan. If you think maybe they have been replaced along the way at some point, jack up the frame and see if they droop downward away from the frame with the tires off the ground. One way to do this is to pull one of the axles up on boards or something and suspend the other axle off the ground. If it doesn't drop/droop a substantial amount, they're toast. You might try posting some close-up pictures of that. We have many axle "experts" here who will be more than happy to "help" you.
With tongue firmly planted in cheek........
Jim
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03-04-2016, 08:24 PM
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#43
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2 Rivet Member
Ravenswood
, West Virginia
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 38
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Thanks Jim and Sharon for the tips.
And yes the POR 15 is already on the way.
I will also do my best to avoid the confusing of the water tanks lol
Really appreciate the advice on the axles. I will conduct that experiment and post the pics.
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03-04-2016, 08:25 PM
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#44
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2 Rivet Member
Ravenswood
, West Virginia
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 38
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Oops I mean Susan
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03-04-2016, 08:29 PM
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#45
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Remember, Safety Third
1973 27' Overlander
Catfish Corners
, Georgia
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,720
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Meant to also say.....nice work so far. That shell lift was cool. Keep on strokin', you'll get there.
Jim
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03-04-2016, 09:50 PM
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#46
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Rivet Master
1975 Argosy 28
Springville
, Alabama
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 836
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You probably have one black(the one with big hole) and 2 gray. The frame looks pretty good. Por-15 and roll! Keep it up your doing great!
__________________
Matt
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03-05-2016, 06:07 AM
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#47
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2 Rivet Member
Ravenswood
, West Virginia
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 38
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Thanks for the encouragement...never hurts on somthing like this
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03-05-2016, 07:18 AM
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#48
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Rivet Master
1976 27' Overlander
Tampa
, Florida
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 796
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Experiment for fun if you want..... BUT, you definitely should buy axles- they are too old. Colin Hyde hooked me up with a seamless install- his axles are direct, bolt on replacements (some other sources need to have the shock mounts cut off and re-welded onto the new ones) You'll also likely upgrade the GVW of your new axles so it wont sag so much and can take the additional weight you are likely going to put in this because you'll be using real wood for your build out.
Also, I would suggest welding in some cross members across the top of the frame while you're doing the metal work. These frames are not built well from the factory- the gauge is lightweight, and there was alot of spot welds instead of full welded seams on mine. Many of my welds were broken and one area where my main frame rail connections to cross memebers were totally cracked. ALL the weight of your camper rests on the outriggers and pushes downward. Welding in cross pieces across the top keeps that side to side stiffer. Overall, beefing up this trailer and putting on the next step up GVW makes a nicer ride.
For POR 15- you can use your gantry as a rotisserie and spray it. Super easy.
Lastly.... take LOTS of pics from many angles... both for your records, but also because you'll wonder how something was as this is going back together.
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03-05-2016, 08:01 AM
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#49
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Rivet Master
1973 27' Overlander
Currently Looking...
Jupiter
, Florida
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 2,062
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I have a good report on the POR-15 metal prep items, really hope you go the extra distance and use them... Their marine-clean is similar to products I used working for a heavy-rail subway system, diluted 5 or 8 to 1 it kicks butt. The Prep and Ready product simply works, leaves the bright iron looking & feeling like 600-grit wet-dry paper from zinc nodules bonded to the iron so the coating grabs and literally never comes off.
Axles... Not to be a naysayer against the general consensus but they can be done anytime including two or three hours before you pull off on your first trip. Planning to do that usually includes complete new brakes, so that is less hassle than trying to find new/old parts, coils springs, pads etc. X 4 can add up fast.
Familiarizing yourself with the brake adjustment before the axles are on the trailer would be a little tip to follow too
__________________
The days are short and the night is long and the stars go tumbling by.. . ~Airstream~
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03-05-2016, 08:36 AM
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#50
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2 Rivet Member
Ravenswood
, West Virginia
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 38
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Mixter,
Thanks for the source on the axles.
And I am with you on the factory framework. I have to admit I was pretty surprised at how flimsy it seemed to be. I was already thinking about some way of beefing it up and your bringing it up coming confirms that notion.
And yes the gantrys are about to be called into action again.
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03-05-2016, 08:44 AM
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#51
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2 Rivet Member
Ravenswood
, West Virginia
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wabbiteer
I have a good report on the POR-15 metal prep items, really hope you go the extra distance and use them... Their marine-clean is similar to products I used working for a heavy-rail subway system, diluted 5 or 8 to 1 it kicks butt. The Prep and Ready product simply works, leaves the bright iron looking & feeling like 600-grit wet-dry paper from zinc nodules bonded to the iron so the coating grabs and literally never comes off.
Axles... Not to be a naysayer against the general consensus but they can be done anytime including two or three hours before you pull off on your first trip. Planning to do that usually includes complete new brakes, so that is less hassle than trying to find new/old parts, coils springs, pads etc. X 4 can add up fast.
Familiarizing yourself with the brake adjustment before the axles are on the trailer would be a little tip to follow too
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I am planning on following there recommend procedure to T. I believe that includes the products you mentioned above. I will probably overdo a great many things on this trailer by the time I am done.
I don't see the point in taking the time and $ to needed to restore it. Only to cut corners to save a day or 5 or a few $.
Noted on the brakes....will do.
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03-09-2016, 04:21 PM
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#52
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2 Rivet Member
Ravenswood
, West Virginia
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 38
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Well there was a bit of a wrestling match with the gantrys but I won.....eventually.
I removed the axles and almost had water tanks out but ran out of time allotted for the day and had to call it quits.
If I don't get rained out I will be at it again tomorrow. Plan on dropping the tanks out and cutting the bad metal out.
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03-09-2016, 05:04 PM
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#53
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Rivet Master
1976 27' Overlander
Tampa
, Florida
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 796
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great idea with the cross beams.
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03-11-2016, 11:51 AM
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#54
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2 Rivet Member
Ravenswood
, West Virginia
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 38
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Well the tanks are out....nothing but rusty metal now. Should I just replace the aluminum boxes they were in ? They looked fairly corroded inside ?
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03-11-2016, 12:38 PM
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#55
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Rivet Master
1975 Argosy 28
Springville
, Alabama
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 836
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That's pretty rusty on the bottom, sure it's aluminum. Either way- if they are solid patch and por-15.
__________________
Matt
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03-11-2016, 12:39 PM
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#56
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2 Rivet Member
Ravenswood
, West Virginia
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mixter
great idea with the cross beams.
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Thanks...was going to go with sawhorses but seeing as how I am on uneven ground the cross beam solution seemed to make sense
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03-11-2016, 02:15 PM
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#57
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2 Rivet Member
Ravenswood
, West Virginia
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rugjenkins
That's pretty rusty on the bottom, sure it's aluminum. Either way- if they are solid patch and por-15.
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Thanks...didn't know if the POR 15 was recommend for aluminum. I plan on using it on the frame but was unsure on the tank boxes.
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03-11-2016, 03:34 PM
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#58
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Rivet Master
1975 Argosy 28
Springville
, Alabama
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 836
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Use ap120 metal prep on the aluminum. I ordered the wrong one awhile back. Should work great! Looking good. Keep it up!
__________________
Matt
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03-11-2016, 05:40 PM
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#59
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Rivet Master
1973 27' Overlander
Currently Looking...
Jupiter
, Florida
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 2,062
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I've seen POR-15 peel off old aluminum like cellophane off a pack of smokes -- left the aluminum clean of its surface crud, remember the corrosion never sleeps and will break the bond or undercut it unless it's been acid etched and passivated. Remember they've been dealing with this on Airplanes for a long time and have the systems worked out.
On getting replacements made, I almost commented before on how twitchy tin-benders are. My original black tank housing was left at a sheetmetal shop and the guy wanted me to court him like he was the prom queen. My guess is it's still leaning against the shops back wall where I left it.. the $$$ signs in his eyes at the mention of 'Airstream' made it easy to walk away from it...
__________________
The days are short and the night is long and the stars go tumbling by.. . ~Airstream~
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03-11-2016, 08:35 PM
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#60
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2 Rivet Member
Ravenswood
, West Virginia
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wabbiteer
I've seen POR-15 peel off old aluminum like cellophane off a pack of smokes -- left the aluminum clean of its surface crud, remember the corrosion never sleeps and will break the bond or undercut it unless it's been acid etched and passivated. Remember they've been dealing with this on Airplanes for a long time and have the systems worked out.
On getting replacements made, I almost commented before on how twitchy tin-benders are. My original black tank housing was left at a sheetmetal shop and the guy wanted me to court him like he was the prom queen. My guess is it's still leaning against the shops back wall where I left it.. the $$$ signs in his eyes at the mention of 'Airstream' made it easy to walk away from it...
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Good point on the POR 15 ...so work with what I got.
Unless I find a reasonably priced source to replace ?
Btw....I returned your pm a few times....or tried to but I didn't seem to be going through. Did you get it ?
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