360 Diesel Pusher

[Vycan]

Richard, we decided to avoid I-10 all together and that it was worth the detour from Austin to meet up with I-20 near the texas-louisiana border. We took i-20 through Louisiana until we got to Richland Mississippi. We took highway diagonally back to I-10 and we met I-10 in Pensacola. I have to say that is definitely a preferred route because we are a very familiar with the I-10 through Louisiana chatter that we experienced the motorhome. The last time we did that on I-10 we had to go 45 miles per hour keep from feeling like we were shaking apart. I-20 is so much smoother the worst part is in Shreveport for 10 miles I will take the 3 hour detour across Louisiana by going up north to I-20 and back down I- 10 to avoid that 3 hour stretch and horrible. The fatigue that that vibration causes is worse than a helicopter for twice that time.

[Kota]

Originally Posted by Vycan

Richard, we decided to avoid I-10 all together and that it was worth the detour from Austin to meet up with I-20 near the texas-louisiana border. We took i-20 through Louisiana until we got to Richland Mississippi. We took highway diagonally back to I-10 and we met I-10 in Pensacola. I have to say that is definitely a preferred route because we are a very familiar with the I-10 through Louisiana chatter that we experienced the motorhome. The last time we did that on I-10 we had to go 45 miles per hour keep from feeling like we were shaking apart. I-20 is so much smoother the worst part is in Shreveport for 10 miles I will take the 3 hour detour across Louisiana by going up north to I-20 and back down I- 10 to avoid that 3 hour stretch and horrible. The fatigue that that vibration causes is worse than a helicopter for twice that time.

Air ride!

[bobmiller1]

Funny you should mention that....the biggest difference I noticed between the 325LE and the 370LE is the ride difference. The only other Airstreamer I know that also has a 325 and a 370 is Charly from MA. The 370 because it is on a Gillig bus chassis is full air-ride front and rear. Big difference in ride quality...just like driving the 2007 396 XL. Rough roads don't bother us anymore. Regards, Bob

[Vycan]

Huh... nice!

[Kota]

Originally Posted by Vycan

Huh... nice!

Haven't had the time to pursue it but will this spring when I get the 94 back here in Michigan. Right now I'm good with it stored in Boulder's dry climate with a roof over it.

I did take the 95 out for a little exercise yesterday. Stopped by a shop that does auto wraps, signs, boats, trucks... Amazing how technology has found its way into rural America. Stuff that used to be limited to the megopolis areas. That, DSL, Amazon, and the brown truck have ' civilized' living in the pickers. $1800 to have the graphics stripped and replaced. Going to do it this winter.

[SebasSF]

Hey Kota, could you get a price on a second set of decals?

[Kota]

Originally Posted by SebasSF

Hey Kota, could you get a price on a second set of decals?

I'll ask. Might be a bit. I'm in the middle of closing on the house in Boulder. Probably be in the spring. Might be 3 sets unless I go for the Duck Commander look on the 94!

[Vycan]

For got to update yall... went from FL to GA then to TN and back to KS, all said and done 3,700miles. Changed the oil before the trip, and need to change again. zero mechanical issues.

My feet were cold coming back though. Cold air was drafting through the firewall at the wiring harness pass through. Too many wires into one hole with little gaps all over. Want to seal this, but without impacting any future work. Anyone have any tips? My first thought was tar, but then thought against it in the event of a short. My next thought was silly putty.

[slowmover]

Coax Seal or similar as temporary DIY.

Can a collared (bunched) sheet of heat resistant material be added to other side?

[tevake]

Plumbers putty should do the trick. And will be removable if needed.

You sure are getting in some good travels.

Cheers Richard

[Mike1997]

I had this same problem with air in the drivers footwell. Freezing in Montana and burning up in Florida. Opened the front hood and found a large gap on the drivers side between the frame and outer body behind the headlight. Had some extra pink insulation left over from a garage project and decided to stuff it into the gap just to see if that made a difference.....BOY DID IT EVER!!

Gotta be one of the cheapest quick repairs ever made to my AS!!! Haha! Needless to say it greatly improved the output from my dash heater and AC .

[Kota]

Originally Posted by Vycan

For got to update yall... went from FL to GA then to TN and back to KS, all said and done 3,700miles. Changed the oil before the trip, and need to change again. zero mechanical issues.

My feet were cold coming back though. Cold air was drafting through the firewall at the wiring harness pass through. Too many wires into one hole with little gaps all over. Want to seal this, but without impacting any future work. Anyone have any tips? My first thought was tar, but then thought against it in the event of a short. My next thought was silly putty.

I've used this: http://www.eastwood.com/ew-flexible-...-bk-2-lbs.html from Eastwood. 3m also make a product.

It's the non-hardening stuff you see on older vehicles. It won't attack wire insulation like petroleum based products (tar, roofing cement...). Plumbers putty would probably dry out, shrink and fall out.

[Kota]

[SebasSF]

Do you fine folks happen to have a part number for out starting motor? I have got the "click" of an outgoing solenoid twice now.
Thanks, Sebastian

[Vycan]

I do not, but would appreciate it once you find it.

[Vycan]

Did some research on the starter motor. Based off of stats I show a DELCO 28MT, 37MT, or larger starting motor with 12V system will work for our coaches.

Reference: http://www.psep.biz/store/cummins_starter_motors.htm and http://www.dieselusa.com/productinfo...on%20Guide.pdf

Cheers!

[SebasSF]

Thanks! I think the 28mt looks like the ticket.

[Vycan]

Another reason I love this forum! I have been looking for replacement dash switches. My Dash switches are black with green lenses and lettering. Very unique and have not found them anywhere. Nothing is wrong with my current switches, but having a spare or two is nice. I also have a mystery connection underneath the dash I want to connect to see what it does. I believe it is a dash controlled 'dock lights.' I first looked for these off and on after our classic get together last year because Richard had to pull a switch from elsewhere for his MacGyver'ed alternator work around. I have tried about once a month for 15 minutes at a time to find these. Because they work it is not a concern, did not put a lot of focus on it. Caught a break and saw a used Land Yacht with the same switches. Figured I'd pop over and see if anyone found them, and sure enough: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f312...es-149782.html
This discussion identified the manufacturer, and made mention of old stock being available as of April last year. All they have left now are blanks, but the point is, they have them if anyone else needs them. They are $10 each. This is their reference page: http://www.euramtec.com/parts/a/a01/4769.html You can send them an email, but you are best served by calling and talking with them. As always, thank you to the wonderful people that collaborate and share knowledge on this board.

[SebasSF]

FYI, there are some of the 19.5 6 lug Alcoas for sale on Ebay- rare as hen's teeth!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/272667438164...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

[Vycan]

I saw those and was thinking about getting some. Thanks for looking out!

Have a question for the masses. My rear curbside compartment actuator failed on this last trip. Does anyone have a source for these parts?