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Old 06-26-2016, 05:09 PM   #183
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Hey Vycan, that repair looks GREAT! Ive got several cracks that need attention like that.

Mike
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Old 06-26-2016, 06:35 PM   #184
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Thanks Mike!

Today I just finished installing the fuel injectors, so one more project checked off. Made a world of difference for smoothing out the sound of the engine. Used Diesel Speed Shop injectors p/n: DSS100HP 12VINJ.

Next weekend its oil change and fluid top off, and then we're off on our next road trip the following week.
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Old 06-27-2016, 07:54 PM   #185
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As an added plus, swapping the injectors fixed my slow start problem. Looked at the injectors, and one was replaced on the most recent breakdown back in JAN. of the five remaining 4/5 had cracks on the nozzles.... so might see some improvement. Here's to hoping!
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Old 09-04-2016, 09:53 PM   #186
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So I knew my remote start on my generator was not working for a year. Had a bur to check out the harness at the connector. It looked solid, until I began seperating wires. The remote start line corroded through, but remained in place. Easy fix, remote start works again on the genny!

In the last 200 miles of this last trip, we lost the alternator, but had solar charging away, so I depressed aux batt to link the engine and cosh batteries to make it home. Here's my concern:

1. Alternator failed high again in NOV15, replaced as only option on the road.

2. Alternator failed high again on the way home from classic get together. APR16, rebuilt the new unit.

3. Alternator failed with no charge present AUG16.

Seems like a symptom of a bigger issue.

Front AC also trips the breaker everytime it tries to kick on the compressor under generator power, but no issues under shore power.

Family stepped on automatic steps while they were extending, now they are partially functional.
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Old 09-05-2016, 08:32 AM   #187
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Failing alternators seem to be a common theme with these diesel pushers as of late. Did Richard ever get to the root of his problem? Might be the same as what you have going on.


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Old 09-05-2016, 09:52 AM   #188
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If you are running your generator while the engine is running you might be encountering a back-feed condition taking the alternator out. You could verify this through the battery isolater. You may also have a bad battery causing the alternator to burn itself out. In any case I would check for voltage drops among the various circuits that you have including the solar system you installed. Regards, Bob
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Old 09-05-2016, 11:20 AM   #189
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Bob,

To clarify a few things to verify the isolator could be the problem:
1. The charger is always selected off when the generator is running.
2. The solar is always on, but managed by the charge controller
3. The isolator is at the back of the coach, i assume is susceptible to heat.
4. I thought it was the batteries too, but they are yellow top optima. If they were flooded I would use a weight test kit. Besides passing a starting test machine at a local auto parts store how else can you test it?

Any ideas on the AC?
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Old 09-05-2016, 11:32 AM   #190
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Nick and all the guys
Sorry I haven't been posting on this trip
I'm in Torrey Ut now after 4,016 mi on the trip so far
Alternator status> tracked down what I believe was the root cause of the problems back in Kansas
The alt is a 2 pin 2 bolt unit 150 amp at what rpm not sure
The top bolt just in front of the 2 pin connector worked its way out and touched the 2 pin connector causing a short which I think ???? Caused the diode inside to blow The diode then leaked enough voltage Back to the Hold Wire on the fuel shut off solenoid to keep it open when you turn the key off
It only takes 4v to hold the solenoid open
The older GM Delco alternator has. 2 pin connector on it with one wire always hot and one wire controlled by the ignition key
I drove about 2 weeks with the alternator isolated from the batteries charging at night in camp then decided to do some Western Pa Redneck modifications
The got the alternator solidly back in the mount then I spliced a 20 amp toggle switch in series with the one wire in the 2 pin connection that is controlled by the ignition key and mounted the toggle next to the coolant bottle by the radiator
The alt is putting out 14 .3 v at the voltage isolator so I connected every thing back properly at the isolator
When the engine is running the the dash volt meter shows 14. 3 Aprox as it always has in the past
When I need to shut it down I turn the ignition key off remove the key and walk around to the rear engine hatch at the radiator open it and turn off the toggle wait for the engine to stop the switch it back on so it is ready to start next time
In Durango I tried to find a replacement alternator but not one to be found anywhere. The 94 Cummins GM/ Delco truck alternator from Napa does NOT fit the alt mount WayToo Small and it was not the old 2 pin design
No model numbers on my alternator so it was
Does anyone out there have the specific model number for this Delco 2 pin alternator??????
I need to pick up one to have as a spare
Regards
Richard
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Old 09-05-2016, 01:32 PM   #191
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My knowledge on isolators is limited. I have two on the coach. The solenoid type and the diode type. I understand the solenoid type, and believe the diode type is a solid state check valve. I have a cole hersee three post rated at 140A. If I understand correctly, it is supposed to charge both house and coach batteries off of the alternator. My coach batteries have only charged off the battery charger since we have owned it. Thus, if my understanding was correct, the isolator always needed replacing.

My multimeter testing showed no reading between alternator post and either battery post, and I ensured to swap leads in the event I had them reversed. It did show a reading between the battery posts at the isolator. Planning to remove nuts on bat1 (engine) and alternator, and just put both of those on alternator post to test the engine.

Richard I have the carquest part number somewhere. Give me a few.
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Old 09-05-2016, 04:05 PM   #192
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Carquest part # for alternator is: 71-7853N

Tried bypassing isolator... no luck, alternator is off, disecting now.
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Old 09-05-2016, 04:30 PM   #193
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Well... found the problem. Looks like the diode trio burnt up as well as two connections of the stator. Going to have to research my electric a bit more as I was confident the two systems are fully isolated.

Currently suspect my isolator failed and that is what caused it because I have continuity between the two battery posts on the diode isolator. Will re-connect everything and verify.
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Old 09-05-2016, 05:59 PM   #194
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It looks ugly in there. You might consider a heavy fuse or breaker in the alternator output line until you get this sorted out. Could get expensive replacing several alternators.


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Old 09-06-2016, 07:04 PM   #195
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Originally Posted by Vycan View Post
Well... found the problem. Looks like the diode trio burnt up as well as two connections of the stator. Going to have to research my electric a bit more as I was confident the two systems are fully isolated.



Currently suspect my isolator failed and that is what caused it because I have continuity between the two battery posts on the diode isolator. Will re-connect everything and verify.

Don't know what the rated duty cycle is on these automotive alternators. Kinda like a welder. It might put out 200 amps but they are rated for the number of minutes they can run out of 10 minutes. Lots of load is being demanded of these alternators to charge big banks of batteries.
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Old 09-06-2016, 09:21 PM   #196
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Kota,

That's just it, up until now the alternator has only charged the engine battery
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