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Old 03-01-2016, 07:04 PM   #547
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Originally Posted by bkahler View Post
I think I finally figure out a way to eliminate all the harmful exhaust emissions from 454. If you've ever heard of a closed loop system here's my take on how it's done

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Brad, I think you may have spent too many late nights in the shop. Maybe you should take a day off..
Seriously, I am really impressed with you progress lately. You are really building momentum. Keep it up!
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Old 03-01-2016, 07:58 PM   #548
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Brad, I think you may have spent too many late nights in the shop. Maybe you should take a day off..
You might have a point there


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Seriously, I am really impressed with you progress lately. You are really building momentum. Keep it up!
Getting the Argosy moved into the shop has made it so much easier to work on. As long as I don't run into any more surprises like the buggered up front suspension I really hope to have it running and driving by this fall. One can hope anyway
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Old 03-07-2016, 10:32 AM   #549
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Accomplished a few more things in the past past week or so. The biggie was getting the last four windows installed in my friends house which should free up more time for me to work on the Argosy and of course to mow

Yep, mowing season starts in about 2 weeks...

I now have all four control arms painted and reassembled and ready to mount to the saddle.
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I'm also getting closer to where I can start the engine on the test stand again. Due the header design and the desire to use a wire loom that routes the plug wires in a nice orderly fashion I had to buy a universal plug wire kit. The plug wires are now in stalled and I added heat socks as a preventative measure. I don't want a plug wire catching on fire like the last time
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The one major item left before restarting the engine is finishing the exhaust system assembled. I've ordered a few more fittings and clamps and they should show up later this week.

Getting close
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Old 03-07-2016, 11:03 AM   #550
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Brad will you have to install multiple fuel pumps like the longer rigs or are you still equal distance from the fuel tank? Sure is a pretty motor!
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Old 03-07-2016, 12:14 PM   #551
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Mike, the motor looks nice now it's just a shame that once it's in the chassis an on the road it'll start to get dirty and grungy

If I was staying with the stock carburetor I could likely get by with one fuel pump but since I'm switching to a TBI system I'll end up having two pumps no matter what. Right now I'm leaning towards having the mechanical engine driven pump fill the surge tank and then the high pressure pump will draw from the surge tank and pump to the throttle body.

That's the easiest way for me to full fill the requirements of a TBI system. What complicates matters for me is I have two fuel tanks so I have to consider distance, piping and costs.
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Old 03-08-2016, 04:58 PM   #552
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When I was looking at the pics of your motor and saw the pump it just got me to wondering about the possible shorter distance between the tank and the motor, and if that would relieve you of some of the problems people seem to have with fuel delivery on the 454.

Too bad youve solved the problem with the plug wires catching fire, that made for exciting viewing on your video.......
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Old 03-09-2016, 05:23 AM   #553
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When I was looking at the pics of your motor and saw the pump it just got me to wondering about the possible shorter distance between the tank and the motor, and if that would relieve you of some of the problems people seem to have with fuel delivery on the 454.
The electric pusher pump might not be needed on the 20s but my understanding is the electric pumps were added to help fight vapor lock and I can see a 20 having similar issues. The only difference between a 20 and a 345 in that regard would be how hard the engine works but theoretically gearing should even that out to some extent.

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Too bad youve solved the problem with the plug wires catching fire, that made for exciting viewing on your video.......
Your idea and my idea of exciting video are apparently very different from each other!
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Old 03-09-2016, 05:40 AM   #554
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..
Your idea and my idea of exciting video are apparently very different from each other!
We are anxiously waiting for the next test run...
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Old 03-09-2016, 06:02 AM   #555
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If that weren't so darn funny I'd be mad! Let's hope and pray that my next startup is NOT a fireball

If I can't laugh at my own mistakes I have no business posting about them to the forums

This coming weekend should see all of the small details wrapped up in preparation for the next test run. I'm installing an exhaust system this time mainly because I have the O2 sensor bungs installed and in order for the O2 sensors to work properly I've been told there needs to be some back pressure.

So, all that would keep me from starting it up after this weekend is fear....
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Old 03-10-2016, 09:43 AM   #556
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I am assuming the only reasons the O2 sensor needs back pressure is to get a more accurate reading? Without it too much air volume might distort the results?

Either way I look forward to seeing that baby run! It is always fun to watch a build come to life.

As for the fire on the last run, I've seen worst! My friend had a cheap harbor freight engine mount that he was using and was undersized for his motor. When he started it and we were watching, one of the legs gave out and the motor went down. It had a clutch fan attached that went to pieces sending stuff flying and the oil pan got dent. Was fun times... :/ so I guess my point is... It could always be worst?

-Dane
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Old 03-10-2016, 11:06 AM   #557
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I am assuming the only reasons the O2 sensor needs back pressure is to get a more accurate reading? Without it too much air volume might distort the results?
I was told without back pressure the readings would likely be skewed. Since I needed a muffler anyway I went ahead and bought the muffler I wanted and I'm connecting everything with flex pipe.

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Either way I look forward to seeing that baby run! It is always fun to watch a build come to life.
You and me both!

Quote:
As for the fire on the last run, I've seen worst! My friend had a cheap harbor freight engine mount that he was using and was undersized for his motor. When he started it and we were watching, one of the legs gave out and the motor went down. It had a clutch fan attached that went to pieces sending stuff flying and the oil pan got dent. Was fun times... :/ so I guess my point is... It could always be worst?

-Dane
The thing that surprised me the most was how well the spark plug cables burned. I could not get the fire to go out. I can't imagine what it would be like to have that scenario happen with the engine sitting in the chassis. Not something I want to experience!


Brad
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Old 03-13-2016, 03:15 PM   #558
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As far as serious rust goes on the chassis or the Airstream floor grid so far I've found three spots that need attention. In the drivers side rear wheel well the 1x2 floor frame tube is rusted and needs replacing. At the very rear of the chassis where Airstream welded additional framework for the hitch and generator enclosure there is a 2x4 tube that needs some attention. And lastly in the drivers front wheel well there is a point where the floor grid supports the aluminum frame work of the cab with the assistance of an angle brace from the chassis.

I tackled this last one yesterday and today. The first three pictures show the rusted area. About 5" of the 1x2 tubing has pretty much rusted away. That's some pretty serious rot!
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Cutting the rusted section out was a real chore. I had to cut it straight and square so the replacement tube would butt up to the old tube with sufficient contact to allow me to weld the joint.
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That small piece of new tubing required three different holes to be drilled. It wasn't a lot of fun trying to get everything to align properly but in the end I managed to get things mostly straight
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The welds aren't the prettiest due to the tar undercoating. No matter what I did I couldn't seem to get it scraped clean enough. I think I managed to splatter enough weld in places to get everything to stay in one place

I'll tackle the other two rusted areas when I remove the differential to replace the leaf springs. With the differential out of the way I should have plenty of room to work on those two bad areas.


Brad
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Old 03-13-2016, 08:08 PM   #559
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkahler View Post
..
Cutting the rusted section out was a real chore. I had to cut it straight and square so the replacement tube would butt up to the old tube with sufficient contact to allow me to weld the joint.


Brad
Brad,
How were you able to cut it that square and straight in such a confined space?
I need to do something very similar to the rear bumper support of the 97 Trailer I am working on and was thinking to you insert a piece first. You would not have to be so darn precise on your joint that way??
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Old 03-14-2016, 06:16 AM   #560
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Brad,
How were you able to cut it that square and straight in such a confined space?
Blind luck! Actually with the entire front suspension removed from the chassis I had more room than normal. If the suspension had been in place it would have been a real pain to deal with.

I started out with a cutoff wheel on my 4-1/2" grinder and then switched to a sawzall with a fine tooth metal cutting blade. I was kinda surprised at how straight the cut was when I was done.

I think the most difficult part was dealing with all the PPE that I had to wear while doing the cutting. Even though the suspension was removed it was still a little tight up where I was cutting the tubing.

Quote:
I need to do something very similar to the rear bumper support of the 97 Trailer I am working on and was thinking to you insert a piece first. You would not have to be so darn precise on your joint that way??
Are you thinking of a tube within a tube arrangement? I can't think of any reason that won't work as long as the tubing doesn't have a seam inside that would prevent a tube from sliding inside the original.
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