My Gas Detector is not working, at all

[J5MM]

Gosh that picture came out HUGE. Sorry about that.

I unscrewed my LP gas detector in hopes that someone on the forums could help me. There is absolutely no power coming into this unit. I have no green, orange or red lights. I have even pushed the "reset" button and nothing.

Even when plugged into shore power it does not work. Is there a fuse within this casing that needs to be replaced? I'm at a total loss....

[xrvr]

There might be a fuse inline. These units are sometimes hotwired directly to the battery, check for a loose wire, . Sometimes these just need to be replaced,. jim

[Steamy1]

Mine did the same thing; I just replaced it with a unit from Safe Home Products, and that did the trick. It now works.

[J5MM]

Originally Posted by Steamy1

Mine did the same thing; I just replaced it with a unit from Safe Home Products, and that did the trick. It now works.

Did you have the same model of the one I have above? If so, can you send me a link to the one you purchased??

[Steamy1]

Here is what I purchased through Amazon:

MTI 30-441-WT 12V White Surface Mount LP Gas Detector"
$49.95
In Stock
Sold by: Safe Home Products, Inc.

The difference between yours and mine, is that your is flush mounted. The manufacture is MTI, and they make several flush mounted units. Do a search on Amazon "LP gas detectors" and you will see all of them.

Good luck

[Scott J-24]

Our LP detector (just like the one pictured above) has the light glowing yellow (orange?) and when we press the 'test' botton nothing happens. We do not smell any propane gas, but we do want the unit to function properly. Do they 'age out' like CO2 detectors do and need to be replaced every few years?

[Steamy1]

Apparently they do, which is what happened to mine.

[Scott J-24]

We received a new Atwood Series 2001 the other day. It cost <$35.00 including shipping from our local AS dealer. I am going to install it today but wanted to ask a question before I start. My detector appears to be directly wired to the battery. I presume that I just disconnect the battery by pulling the cables off the battery posts. Is there a special order of removal (eg., red/hot wire first? Any other issues I should be aware of? I don't want to fry my 12v system, so I thought it best to ask before I start.

Thanks,

[azflycaster]

Originally Posted by Scott J-24

We received a new Atwood Series 2001 the other day. It cost <$35.00 including shipping from our local AS dealer. I am going to install it today but wanted to ask a question before I start. My detector appears to be directly wired to the battery. I presume that I just disconnect the battery by pulling the cables off the battery posts. Is there a special order of removal (eg., red/hot wire first? Any other issues I should be aware of? I don't want to fry my 12v system, so I thought it best to ask before I start.

Thanks,

Always remove the negative first and install the positive first. This removes the chance of shorting out your wrench if it comes in contact with the trailer.

[Scott J-24]

Originally Posted by azflycaster

Always remove the negative first and install the positive first. This removes the chance of shorting out your wrench if it comes in contact with the trailer.

Thanks, glad I asked! BTW, I have two 6 volt batteries wired in series. Does this make any difference on how I approach this?

[gwmc]

Originally Posted by Scott J-24

I presume that I just disconnect the battery by pulling the cables off the battery posts.... Any other issues I should be aware of? I don't want to fry my 12v system, so I thought it best to ask before I start.

Thanks,

The LP detector wiring should have an inline fuse. In my trailer (2007 Classic), the detector is wired to the positive bus bar underneath the gaucho in the front. The inline fuse (white holder) is within half a foot of the bus bar.
If you find it, just open it, don't bother with the battery.
Also, I wouldn't replace an LP detector until I've made sure the old one actually gets power. (The first post in this thread says the unit gets no power).

[Scott J-24]

Originally Posted by gwmc

The LP detector wiring should have an inline fuse. In my trailer (2007 Classic), the detector is wired to the positive bus bar underneath the gaucho in the front. The inline fuse (white holder) is within half a foot of the bus bar.
If you find it, just open it, don't bother with the battery.
Also, I wouldn't replace an LP detector until I've made sure the old one actually gets power. (The first post in this thread says the unit gets no power).

Yes, we have power getting to our LP detector (light is steady orange). The OP was J5MM and I am piggybacking on his thread because he had the same type of detector. Thanks for the tip on the in-line fuse.

[azflycaster]

Originally Posted by Scott J-24

Thanks, glad I asked! BTW, I have two 6 volt batteries wired in series. Does this make any difference on how I approach this?

The key is to remove the connection to the trailer from the negative side of the battery(s) before you start on the positive. If the negative is removed, the positive will not short to the trailer if it comes in contact.

When I was in the USAF I saw a few wrenches welded to the side of the plane when the crew chief did not follow the correct procedure.

[Scott J-24]

Thanks for all of your help. Installation was a piece of cake! Couldn't locate the in-line fuse so I pulled the battery cables and cut out the old detector and crimped on the new one. Less than a 5 minute job. Great to see the little green light blinking and knowing we are safer than before.