Turn Water Pump On Leaks Underneath

[Abba]

There you have it...leaking outside and inside....the last photo of under the microwave...you can see the puddle which runs from the left to the right.

The leaks outside also run from the rear to the front....the AI is parked on a bit of a slant...pointing down hill...so this might be one leak running forward?
No....can't be!
I can't tell how a leak behind the rear wheels can flow forward since there is a gap due to the wheels...stopping the flow.

Did any of that make sense?

[Abba]

Should add this one too....took the pictures while running the hose through the city water valve/spot/doohickey. However, the same thing happens when I turn on the water pump....once off, the leaking slowly stops.

[Abba]

Originally Posted by AlexP

Abba,
Helpful pics.
The valves are closed (perpendicular to the lines). There is a strainer screen in front of pump (blue tab), try to take out and clean if clogged up.
Also plastic pex (water line) fittings are brittle, if they cracked I would replace with brass ones (hardware store).
Try to retighten all screw on connections.

Maybe you can turn on the pump and watch where the leaks are.
Good luck.

There are two blue things on either side of the pump...are those what you mean?

Plastic pex...I'll have to google that. You can see that mine are brittle?

[Pahaska]

With the AI sitting nose low, the leak would appear to me to be at the connections to the water heater. That's the only place that would have water leaking behind the rear wheels as in the first photo above when sitting nose low. The water would be running around the wheel well on the original Sprinter steel floor, below the composite Airstream floor. Since the steel floor is grooved, the water can run forward.

These water heater connections are not easy to access as they are under the couch. It is difficult to reach up under there to winterize. The couch would probably need to be temporarily removed to do any repairs under there.

[Daquenzer]

Sorry, my guess is you have some broken pipes and/or fittings. The problem will be where those pipes are. Probably need to take it to a professional. Bummer.

I winterized mine for the first time and you really have to make sure that the anti-freeze is coming out of every area including the outside shower, the toilet, the sinks, the inside shower. And you need to do it one fixture at a time. Then you have to make sure there is no water in the water pump by turning it on and draining it out or by running antifreeze through the water pump. If you weren't sure where the water pump was my guess is that you didn't get that done, there was water in the system, and it froze in the pipes. Also if you didn't know which way to turn the water heater valve my guess is you could have had residual water in those lines and that froze. You have to remember to drain the water heater AND turn the water off to the water heater before you blow out the system and put anti-freeze through it. Otherwise water can seep in there and freeze or freeze the pipes or you get anti-freeze in the water heater.

Hope it isn't an expensive fix.

[Seabloom]

I'm not sure if you have access to an air compressor but if you do I found my leak this way.

#1 Make sure you have a regulator on the air compressor and dial it down to say only 5-6 psi. Hook up the air compressor to your city inlet water line (if you know it leaks on both city and the built in pump). With all faucets closed you may be able to hear an air leak.

It worked on my vintage airstream as there was a change between copper and plastic. The transition was a rubber coupling that I was able to tighten up using a normal screw driver. The issue is that often getting to the areas can be a challenge.

Good luck.

[Abba]

Seabloom
#1 Make sure you have a regulator on the air compressor and dial it down to say only 5-6 psi. Hook up the air compressor to your city inlet water line (if you know it leaks on both city and the built in pump). With all faucets closed you may be able to hear an air leak.
______________________

An air compressor....the same machine that fills tires, right? If that's what you mean, we have one but it's pretty noisy. So, I'm guessing it might be difficult to hear the leak. Do you have a quiet one? If so, what brand?

[Lily&Me]

When I had this kind of leak, it was my water pump, and probably from improperly winterizing...

It wasn’t too expensive to get fixed, and if it’s frustrating you trying to find out exactly what and where maybe the answer is a repair place that can take care of it for you.

That’s what I did...no more leak.

Maggie

[Boxster1971]

Originally Posted by Abba

While running water through the city water line....the encore leaking performance began. Will add the photos and hopefully a video too.

I filled up the water tanks again and of course and if I turn the water pump on the leaking follows. So! Unless I can figure it out and repair it myself, we'll just have to use bottle water in the kitchen sink. When we need to flush, we'll turn on the water pump briefly...enough to get rid of whatever needs ridding.

This will be good enough to get us across the country and closer to a place that can repair....more places out west than there are here in the east.....

Your profile says you are in Pasadena, MD. There is an RV/Airstream dealer not that far away that sells and services Interstates. Beckleys in Thurmont, MD - might be worth calling them and see if you can get it looked at. From your comments I think it's best to get it looked at by someone familiar with the Interstate. It would be best to get this fixed before you head off on a trip West and then try to find service on the road. It sounds and looks like like you have some form of freeze damage. Very common problem in this freezing part of the country. Water will always flow down hill to low point no matter where the leak is in your van. It could be a fairly easy fix - like the water pump housing that would just require a new water pump.

Here is link to Beckleys web site:
https://www.beckleysrvs.com

[rowiebowie]

Originally Posted by Abba

There are two blue things on either side of the pump...are those what you mean?

Plastic pex...I'll have to google that. You can see that mine are brittle?

Those "blue things" are quick connects for your water pump. With the water pump off & water pressure released (which is virtually certain given your leak) you can easily pull the blue tabs. But first you may want to check if the are seated by pushing them in. Just pull, they do not twist.

One side has the pumps filter screen which you should check and clean before putting it back on.

My May issue of MotorHome magazine a good article on water pump problems and leaks. I couldn't locate the article on line to post a link. Sorry.

[Titus]

I agree with Pahaska - with water dripping at the rear when the nose is down the most likely problem is the water heater or its associated plumbing. You have to remove the seat cushion to access it. First remove the seat back (four nuts) then the seat cushion (two nuts at the rear, two bolts/nuts at the front. There are several fittings going to/from the heater and the mixer valve. Once must be very loose or cracked based upon the size of your leak.

The yellow valve was hard to access so I cut an access hole with hinged door on the vertical panel below the bench seat. We usually leave the bed made so the access never shows.

[Tronadora]

Originally Posted by Abba

There you have it...leaking outside and inside....the last photo of under the microwave...you can see the puddle which runs from the left to the right.

The leaks outside also run from the rear to the front....the AI is parked on a bit of a slant...pointing down hill...so this might be one leak running forward?
No....can't be!
I can't tell how a leak behind the rear wheels can flow forward since there is a gap due to the wheels...stopping the flow.

Did any of that make sense?

Abba,
In your second of three photos, it appears to be the area just behind the drivers door where you have a lot of water spilling out. That would be the fresh water tank drain plug that is perhaps missing. That drain plug can be checked without getting a knee on the ground once you know where to reach.

Separate note: I've been known to only hand tighten mine when I'm doing my bleach flushing drain cycles, but I noticed that for long term storage I would get a very slow drip if I don't apply a wrench.

[mimiandrews]

Stupid question is best defined as the one need to ask, but don't. We were all newbies once, and this group is pretty friendly. I admire your effort to learn.

Air compressor:
1. Yes, the same machine that fills tires
2. Noisy when running, but, if it's the kind that has a storage tank, it will shut down once it reaches a given pressure. Then it will supply compressed air quietly until a low pressure value is reached and turn itself on again. At 4 to 5 psi, the quiet period will be pretty long, or you can just turn the darn thing off once you have some working pressure.
3. If it's the kind that has no storage tank, it will be noisy any time it's producing useful air pressure. If yours is that kind, the only possible solution is a very long hose so the compressor can be far from the Airstream, or borrow the neighbor's compressor.

The biggest advantage to using air to locate a leak is that it leaves nothing to clean up.

[2Dreamin]

Forget trying to get any kind of warranty work done at the following Airstream Dealer. I was just told by the Service Dept at Beckley's that as of January 1, 2018 that no longer warrant service any Airstream unless you purchased your unit from them.

Beckley's Camping Center
11109 Angleberger Rd.
Thurmont, MD 21788
Sales: 800-481-3309
Service: 800-481-3309

THIS HAS GOT TO CHANGE......Airstream needs to step up to the plate and so does Thor!!!!
This is NOT ACCEPTABLE under any circumstance!!!!

[Seabloom]

Sorry was offline for a while. yes same as for tires, but be careful not to put too much pressure in and blow up hot water tank etc. My compressor is a Makita its loud but its in the garage so the noise isn't an issue.