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rel · 09-22-2013, 07:08 PM

Would you please narrow it down a bit... My ipad doesn't show post#'s. What was the subject of post #34 ??? I'm looking for the picture...

rel · 09-22-2013, 07:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by relehnherr

Would you please narrow it down a bit... My ipad doesn't show post#'s. What was the subject of post #34 ??? I'm looking for the picture...

. Revise to post 35#...

73shark · 09-22-2013, 07:18 PM

The link is about 7 posts back. It should show up as a link.

rel · 09-22-2013, 07:54 PM

Now I understand... Page 17 in the Fiamma F65 Awning manual...
Thanks

MILATV · 11-03-2013, 08:34 PM

So for those following my posts from the Awning issue on the Florida Trip.
Jim Parrett came thru with a Troubleshooting Guide that allowed me to diagnose the problem as a BAD MOTOR.

I've also included pics of the components of the motor; the connector (that appears to have shorted and melted the wires) and how I had to HAND CRANK the awning in since the motor clutch wouldn't work with hand crank.

I'll Post it here in case other have issues.

1. Open the awning about half way. Open manually if needed.
2. Make sure ignition is turned off. (If the awning is wired correctly there should be no power to the awning circuit with the ignition on.)
3. Check terminal A3 on the control unit for voltage. If no voltage is found continue to line 4. If voltage is good, skip to line 6
4. Check relay pin 87 or 87a (check which ever pin OEM used) for voltage. If no voltage is found, continue to line 5. If voltage is present then relay may be damaged or wired incorrectly.
5. Check 16 amp fuse for continuity. If fuse is bad replace fuse and check awning to see if operation is normal. If fuse is good, check and fix connection with battery. Once connection is corrected check for normal operation. If motor does not operate, return to line 3.
6. While extending the awning check terminal A1 for voltage. Also check terminal A2 while retracting the awning.
If no voltage is found, confirm that the switch to extend and retract the awning is wired correctly. If the switch is wired correctly then the control unit may be damaged.
If voltage is found the motor should operate normally. If the motor is not operating then the motor may be damaged. Continue to line 7
7. Check between terminal A5 and B5 for continuity. If continuity exist then micro switch is damaged. If it does not exist then motor is damaged.

HiHoAgRV · 11-03-2013, 08:48 PM

Wow, an aftermarket wiper system motor. It seems that you could find a cheap replacement.

MILATV · 11-03-2013, 08:59 PM

Warranty. In betting it has a little more torque given the effort it took to ratchet the canopy in.

MILATV · 11-13-2013, 06:08 AM

Update: still no solution, Fiamma says AS may have wired the awning wrong and has their EE looking into it. Meanwhile I have a trip this weekend - better pack the EZ-UP! Jim at AS is working the case so I have faith they will work it out.

Wayward · 11-13-2013, 07:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MILATV

I've also included pics of the components of the motor; the connector (that appears to have shorted and melted the wires) .

My 2 cents without seeing it up close, just from the wiring picture, the insulation on the white/purple and black wires looks damaged (scraped or pinched?), not melted. The insluation on the purple wire seems to have overheated.

From the wiring diagram, the white/purple and purple wires are the high current, forward and reverse wires for the motor. From the Fiamm wiring diagram, everything should be protected by a 16amp fuse feeding the awning system relay. That 16 amp fuse "should" have blown before enough heat was generated to melt those wires.

Is it a 16 amp fuse?

MILATV · 11-13-2013, 08:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wayward

the insulation on the white/purple and black wires looks damaged (scraped or pinched?), not melted. The insluation on the purple wire seems to have overheated.

The wires look scraped because all 3 were melted together, and when I pulled them apart it pulled the insulation off. I'm not completely sure they shorted out, but there is an issue to be sure.

The fuses are factory; I thought it was a 15A (not 16) but I agree. Maybe why Fiamma is asking AS how they wired it; maybe that is the real issue, if they are feeding the controller w/o going thru a fuse box then the wires will melt and the motor will fail.

I'll update as soon as I hear something. My first email to Jim Parrett was only sent on 10/31 so only been 2 weeks w/o solution so far. . . . . we'll see what they come up with.

With it being 4 hours+ one way to AS dealer this isn't something I'm willing to drive 16 hrs (trip to drop off, trip to pick up) to get fixed.

milkfish888 · 12-04-2013, 11:11 AM

I found the following post regarding the beeping sound on a 2011 Airstream Interstate:

http://www.justanswer.com/rv-motorho...tep-going.html

I encountered the same issue when I just purchased my AI. The beeping noise came from a Dual Rate Electronic Alarm. The alarm is for the electric step at the sliding door. The following is the picture of the alarm that I unplugged.

David M · 12-04-2013, 11:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by milkfish888

I found the following post regarding the beeping sound on a 2011 Airstream Interstate: http://www.justanswer.com/rv-motorho...tep-going.html I encountered the same issue when I just purchased my AI. The beeping noise came from a Dual Rate Electronic Alarm. The alarm is for the electric step at the sliding door. The following is the picture of the alarm that I unplugged.

For my future reference, where was this alarm located/how did you get access to it? Thanks,
David

milkfish888 · 12-04-2013, 05:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by David M

For my future reference, where was this alarm located/how did you get access to it? Thanks,
David

Hello! David. On the left side of the electric step, there is an open storage "box". You can unscrew this storage "box" and remove it. The alarm is located behind this storage box. Thanks!

David M · 12-04-2013, 05:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by milkfish888

Hello! David. On the left side of the electric step, there is an open storage "box". You can unscrew this storage "box" and remove it. The alarm is located behind this storage box. Thanks!

Thank you! Much appreciated

David

Boxster1971 · 12-04-2013, 08:39 PM

This alarm is likely from your awning not the step as we have discussed before on this forum.

73shark · 12-04-2013, 09:48 PM

There is a micro switch at the rear end of the awning that indicates when the awning is fully retracted. On mine the leaf on the micro switch had to be bent in order for it to engage and turn off the alarm.

milkfish888 · 12-05-2013, 01:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boxster1971

This alarm is likely from your awning not the step as we have discussed before on this forum.

You might be right. However, after I purchased the 2011 Airstream Interstate, I never used the awning. I presumed the alarm is for the electric door because it is close to it. Thanks!

Solomon

73shark · 12-05-2013, 06:08 AM

You might try extending the awning a foot or two and then retracting and holding the button for just a second or two after it's fully retracted. Traveling may have vibrated the awning enough to cause the micro switch to open and trigger the alarm.

Protagonist · 12-05-2013, 06:45 AM

On my 2012, the step and the awning have separate alarms, making different sounds (step is one beep per second from near the sliding door, awning is an intermittent squawk from under the passenger seat), but apparently newer models have just one alarm for both step and awning.

On mine, the step alarm only activates when there is some unidentified something blocking the step from retracting fully (even if it looks fully retracted, it's still not making good contact with the limit switch). Initially surprisingly to me, a hard stop on an incline usually causes the step to jar itself into the correct position and shut off the alarm.

Awning alarm will squawk at me sometimes when I hit a bump, pothole, or pavement joint hard enough to make the awning vibrate; the only thing holding the awning in the closed position is the tension on the fabric, and fabric stretches slightly under a load.

If I'm on a bad road and can't keep the awning alarm from intermittently squawking due to the vibration (all too common in Louisiana, home of bad roads), I'll stop the vehicle, get out my portable ladder, and wrap a couple of heavy-duty rubber bands around the front and rear ends of the awning to hold it closed until I get to my destination.

73shark · 12-05-2013, 08:39 AM

You might try bending the leaf slightly on the micro switch at the tail end of the awning to eliminate this inadvertent tripping of the alarm. At least that worked for me and I've gone 10,000 miles without a false trip of the buzzer.