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08-18-2012, 07:40 PM
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#1
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2 Rivet Member
2013 Interstate Coach
Saint Louis
, Missouri
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 21
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Non-stop beeping sound
This is my first post, just joined, took delivery yesterday on a 2013 Interstate Twin, drove 383 miles (from a dealer near Jackson Center), beeping sound (appears to be coming from outdoor electric step area) did not stop except when engine was shut off. It beeps while engine is running and house battery is turned to the OFF position. I checked many things i.e. seat belts, doors, awning, step...Frustrated... Any ideas?
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08-18-2012, 07:43 PM
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#2
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2 Rivet Member
1958 26' Overlander
Portland
, Oregon
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 45
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Call the dealer?
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08-18-2012, 08:12 PM
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#3
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Rivet Master
1988 32' Excella
Robbinsville
, New Jersey
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 3,165
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Did the step retract?
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08-18-2012, 08:29 PM
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#4
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Rivet Master
1978 Argosy Minuet 6.7 Metre
1989 29' Excella
Lorain County
, Ohio
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,246
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batteries bad
We have a trailer, but the first thing I would go looking for is the carbon monoxide detector or maybe a propane gas detector that might be located near the floor.
Smoke alarms are usually on the ceiling.
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Larry and Lou
CP: Water/30 amp/waste dump/WIFI & Room for 2-3 units; PM us if you are headed our direction!
Air #2695
TAC- OH 2
#1420 NOVA 4-006 Charter member
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08-18-2012, 11:22 PM
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#5
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Rivet Master
2011 Interstate Coach
Overland Park
, Kansas
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 2,798
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Welcome to the forum.
The two things that beep like that on mine are the awning not fully retracted (at least the computer didn't think so due to a misadjusted limit switch) and the step is not retracted w/ the engine running.
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Glass half full or half empty to an engineer is the glass is twice as big as it needs to be.
2011 Interstate SOLD! Upfitted 2017 Transit 350. SOLD!
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08-19-2012, 09:05 AM
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#6
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1 Rivet Member
Waldorf
, Maryland
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 14
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We had a similar problem (although I think it stopped if the engine was off). Check the position of the step lock switch. If I remember correctly there is a secret secret combination of steps you have to do to reset. Something like turn the engine off, then turn the switch off, then turn the engine back on.
In our case we had accidentally switched the step lock to on. (flipping on and off all the unmarked switches!)
But, in researching the issue on the Internet, I think it is a common issue...and sometimes the sliding door is not making good contact with the step sensor.
Not entirely helpful, I know...but maybe gives you some things to try...good luck!
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08-19-2012, 09:11 AM
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#7
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Figment of My Imagination
2012 Interstate Coach
From All Over
, More Than Anywhere Else
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 10,868
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There are two things that make the step retract, if everything works as it should:
1 - You start the engine. There is an electrical solenoid switch for the motor that extends and retracts the step, which is powered off the main battery, not the house batteries. When you turn the ignition to "Start" that interrupts power to the solenoid switch and forces the motor to retract the step. Just turning the key to "On" doesn't do it, you have to turn it all the way to "Start";
2 - You fully close the sliding side door. There is a limit switch on the door. When the door is closed, this opens the circuit and triggers the motor to retract the step. When you open the door, this closes the circuit and triggers the step to extend.
There is an alarm on the step itself, so that when the engine is running and the step is in any position other than fully retracted, it will beep.
However, there is also a step lock switch. The step lock switch is wired in parallel to the limit switch. When the switch is in the "On" position, once the step extends, it stays extended until you start the engine, even if the sliding door closes. Starting the engine overrides the step lock. At least it's supposed to. Only use the step lock when you're boondocking and you don't want to waste electricity for powering the step in and out every time you go in and out of the van. Note that the step lock will NOT lock the step in the retracted position, only in the extended position.
Also, down near the bottom of the sliding side door, beside that little storage cubbyhole under the seat, there is a "step extend" switch. The only time this switch does you any good is if you open the side door while the engine is running (step stays retracted) and then turn off the engine. Since the side door is already open when the engine is shut off, the step doesn't automatically extend when you shut off the engine, so you use this switch to extend it.
When I had a problem with my step, it was traced back to two things working together: The step lock was on, and the limit switch on the side door needed to be adjusted. What was happening with mine was that somehow the step was working backwards, opening when I closed the sliding side door, and staying open when I opened the side door. However, my step always retracted when I started the engine, and in fact that was the ONLY way I could get it to retract.
Turns out my step lock switch was wired so that the "Off" position is up, completely opposite of all of the light switches and tank heater switch in the same location, where "Off" is down. Not knowing that, I had my step lock on all the time. Once I figured that out, and got the dealer to shim the limit switch into the correct position, I've had no more trouble ever since. I don't know if everybody's is wired that way, or if my step lock is the only one wired backwards.
Your problem is different, since your step is staying extended (at least partially) with the engine running.
One thing I nioticed on my step, when I was trying to troubleshoot the problem without an owner's manual for the step, there is a small hydraulic fill line with a cap on the end, coming out of the back of the step pan underneath the van. If the line is not held vertical, a bit of light machine oil (about the consistency of brake fluid) will leak out if the end cap is loosened. This hydraulic fill line is loose, nothing to hold it in place. If this line fell behind your step inside the step pan, it could be blocking the step from retracting fully. You'll have to find it by feel (preferably with the step extended), but be careful not to dislodge the end cap.
For any other cause, you're probably looking at an electrical problem.
__________________
I thought getting old would take longer!
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08-19-2012, 10:14 AM
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#8
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Rivet Master
Airstream Dealer
Corona
, California
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 16,497
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daizey
This is my first post, just joined, took delivery yesterday on a 2013 Interstate Twin, drove 383 miles (from a dealer near Jackson Center), beeping sound (appears to be coming from outdoor electric step area) did not stop except when engine was shut off. It beeps while engine is running and house battery is turned to the OFF position. I checked many things i.e. seat belts, doors, awning, step...Frustrated... Any ideas?
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A smoke alarm or detector that is battery operated, is the likely cause of that beeping.
They are usually located just inside the entrance door.
Andy
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08-19-2012, 10:15 AM
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#9
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Rivet Master
Airstream Dealer
Corona
, California
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 16,497
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daizey
This is my first post, just joined, took delivery yesterday on a 2013 Interstate Twin, drove 383 miles (from a dealer near Jackson Center), beeping sound (appears to be coming from outdoor electric step area) did not stop except when engine was shut off. It beeps while engine is running and house battery is turned to the OFF position. I checked many things i.e. seat belts, doors, awning, step...Frustrated... Any ideas?
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It could also be a "LPG" leak detector that's battery operated.
Andy
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08-19-2012, 04:00 PM
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#10
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2 Rivet Member
2012 Interstate Coach
Fort Smith
, Arkansas
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 44
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Run the awning out the back fully. Fixed mine.
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08-19-2012, 05:04 PM
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#11
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Figment of My Imagination
2012 Interstate Coach
From All Over
, More Than Anywhere Else
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 10,868
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In
A smoke alarm or detector that is battery operated, is the likely cause of that beeping.
They are usually located just inside the entrance door.
Andy
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Actually, in an Interstate class B van they're located in back. LPG detector at the driver's side wheelwell, smoke/CO detector on the passenger side ceiling near the electrical panel locker.
I had a problem with my LPG detector beeping during my first outing. One beep per minute. Turns out it was a fault indicator, and the fix was to simply unplug the shore power cable, shut off the house batteries, wait a minute, and reconnect.
__________________
I thought getting old would take longer!
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08-19-2012, 07:16 PM
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#12
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2 Rivet Member
2013 Interstate Coach
Saint Louis
, Missouri
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 21
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Thanks for all the suggestions. Step works fine, I found the step extend switch beside the little storage cubby under the seat, hold switch for step works fine... tried extending the awning again, started the engine, beeping sound disappeared. I drove the unit about 7 miles and beeping started up again, this time it beeped for maybe 15 seconds then stopped, then I got home. The LP propane detector on this 2013 twin model is located on the passenger floor cabinet under the bed. The salesman at the Airstream dealer (at the time of delivery) unplugged the chassis battery (the quick disconnect cable located underneath the driver's side dash) and reconnected it. Maybe something needs resetting? I will give the dealer a call in the morning. Thanks again for all the responses.
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08-21-2012, 04:04 PM
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#13
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2 Rivet Member
2011 Interstate Coach
Houston
, Texas
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 55
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Let us know what it was. When that happened with mine...I had stopped retracting the awning when it "looked" fully retracted. Held the button just a bit longer and the beeping stopped.
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08-21-2012, 08:44 PM
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#14
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2 Rivet Member
2013 Interstate Coach
Saint Louis
, Missouri
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 21
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Called the dealer regarding the beeping and I was told it could be a defective sensor for the awning, salesman suggested I FULLY extend awning and retract, just got back from another ride and happy to report "no beeping" whoopee. Kind of makes me afraid to use the awning.
What's up with the fresh water drain plug. I had to use a 26mm socket to loosen the plug. Seems like AS could've installed something a little less cumbersome (a handle of some kind would be nice). I would like to modify that. Anybody got any ideas?
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08-22-2012, 04:57 AM
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#15
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Figment of My Imagination
2012 Interstate Coach
From All Over
, More Than Anywhere Else
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 10,868
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daizey
What's up with the fresh water drain plug. I had to use a 26mm socket to loosen the plug. Seems like AS could've installed something a little less cumbersome (a handle of some kind would be nice). I would like to modify that. Anybody got any ideas?
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Airstream didn't design that; the tank manufacturer did.
Threaded hole for drain plug could be the same size as an oil pan drain plug. If so, check out this link: Welcome to Oil Drain Valve It's a ball valve that screws on in place of an oil drain plug. I thought about getting one for my Interstate's fresh water drain plug, but haven't gotten around to it. When I remove the water tank drain plug for winterizing (if I even winterize this year, Gulf Coast winters are usually mild) I can compare the size to an oil pan drain plug. If they're the same, I might get one of these valves to replace the fresh water drain plug.
__________________
I thought getting old would take longer!
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08-22-2012, 08:45 AM
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#16
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Rivet Master
2010 22' Interstate
Anchorage
, Alaska
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 516
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Protagonist: I agree that the drain plug is awkward and have considered the solution you suggest. My concern is that anything used to replace the stock plug will hang down a little lower and the ground clearance on these vans is already pretty low. I would hate to have something break the new drain valve off and damage the tank. I'm still looking for a good solution. By the way, there are several threads on the Sprinter Forum about the Fumoto valve installed to drain engine oil.
Wayne
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- wayne
2010 Interstate 3500 Twin Bed
(2008 Freightliner CRD Sprinter)
AIR #44779
TAC AK-1 !!
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08-22-2012, 08:54 AM
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#17
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Figment of My Imagination
2012 Interstate Coach
From All Over
, More Than Anywhere Else
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 10,868
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wayneskid
Protagonist: I agree that the drain plug is awkward and have considered the solution you suggest. My concern is that anything used to replace the stock plug will hang down a little lower and the ground clearance on these vans is already pretty low. I would hate to have something break the new drain valve off and damage the tank. I'm still looking for a good solution. By the way, there are several threads on the Sprinter Forum about the Fumoto valve installed to drain engine oil.
Wayne
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Drilling and tapping for a new drain on the bottom edge of the rear end of the tank might help. There might be a slight amount of retention with the drain in the new location, which would easily be solved by elevating the front end of the van on leveling blocks before draining the tank.
__________________
I thought getting old would take longer!
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08-22-2012, 12:06 PM
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#18
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2 Rivet Member
2013 Interstate Coach
Saint Louis
, Missouri
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 21
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Thanks Protagonist for the tip. I'll give you all an update when I receive/install it. 32.95 plus shipping. Just thought it would've been a nice touch if AS could've supplied something different for the drain plug.
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08-22-2012, 12:11 PM
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#19
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Figment of My Imagination
2012 Interstate Coach
From All Over
, More Than Anywhere Else
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 10,868
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daizey
Thanks Protagonist for the tip. I'll give you all an update when I receive/install it. 32.95 plus shipping. Just thought it would've been a nice touch if AS could've supplied something different for the drain plug.
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Don't get too carried away. I said that I haven't installed a drain valve in place of the drain plug yet, and don't even know if it's the same size as an oil drain plug. So buying one of these valves for your fresh water tank just on my opinion isn't necessarily a good idea.
If you're buying one for the oil pan, that's different.
__________________
I thought getting old would take longer!
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08-23-2012, 10:58 PM
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#20
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1 Rivet Member
Currently Looking...
LB
, California
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 15
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The only time I got that slider door beep was when I left slider open with engine running. I think it's an alarm for co2 ( we have never used our awning so could not be that.) Sound went away after stinky exhaust cleared. Previously (not during this incident) our co2 monitor on roof in back of the coach beeped non stop till I unplugged power from the ceiling. Belief from co2 monitor people was that low voltage from low battery triggered it. Still need to reconnect....every time I try beeps!
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