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Old 02-08-2015, 03:00 PM   #1
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Silverado brake controller and hitch pin

I just saw a posting to F250/350 owners regarding a suggested setting for the Ford integrated brake controller. I don't know if they are necessarily the same, but since I just took delivery of a Chevy 2500 HD Duramax, I thought I'd ask the same question since this is my first experience with a built in controller. So what have been your experiences with the built in controller setting?

The hitch receiver on the Silverado is 2 1/2" square versus 2" on our previous Suburban. To date, I have also been unable to locate a 5/8" hitch pin and clip that is long enough for the Silverado. Any suggestions? Thanks. Jack
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Old 02-08-2015, 05:05 PM   #2
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They come with the standard pin and clip. Look under and around the back seats...in the glove box, center console. If it isn't there, have your dealer get you one. (free!). Now, if you are looking for a locking pin, just cruise the net. They're pretty common.
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Old 02-08-2015, 06:41 PM   #3
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Regarding the built in brake controler on my 2012 silverado k series 1500 4x4 , I have mine set to setting 8 and it seems to work great on both my old 2012 19 flying cloud and my 2015 16 sport .

Don
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Old 02-09-2015, 07:17 AM   #4
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Look for a hitch pin, either locking or plain, that is labelled "Class 5". Class 5 pins fit my Silverado. I have seen them in WalMart and at RV dealers.
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Old 02-09-2015, 09:23 AM   #5
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Jack,
We have the same set up. We set the controller at 7.5 or 8 most times and everything seems smooth. No excessive brake wear on either the truck or trailer. We bought one of those longer double-ended locking hitch pins at Camping World. Has worked fine for three years. Don't we LOVE our 30s?
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Old 02-09-2015, 09:34 AM   #6
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Like Silver Otter, I have ours set around 8 and it seems fine there.

I have had a couple of sporadic weird problems with ours, Suddenly I will get a chime from the dash and a message saying "Check trailer brake system" even though everything seems fine and I still get the "brake effort bar" or whatever you call it, on the dash responding normally and the brakes seem to be working.

I have even had the message pop up when no trailer attached.

I believe the message relates to the system on the truck itself and not the trailer, I think there is another message the controller can show saying "Check trailer brakes." I had the message show up once when I had a broken magnet wire on one wheel.

I have not been able to resolve the "Check trailer brake system" message, but it has only happened maybe three or four times in 6 years. I did pull the umbilical socket on the truck apart and ensured all the contacts were clean and bright - same on the trailer.

I haven't heard of others having the problem, so I guess it is not a chronic thing. Could find much related info with an internet search a year or so back.

Generally the controller seems to work well.

Brian.

PS - when you get a hitch pin, I would look for a straight one with lock on the end.

I started out using one with a bent end and found it was wallowing out the pin hole in the truck hitch - i.e. making it oval.

I read on this forum that the bent pins will do that. I switched to a straight join and the wear seems to have stopped.
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Old 02-09-2015, 10:19 AM   #7
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6-8 depending on conditions ... check your AS brakes and TV setting often ... on uphill, down hill, and inclement conditions. For us, the setting varies as we don't want to over control the AS brakes. YMMV
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Old 02-09-2015, 11:56 AM   #8
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If your truck has an e brake start out at 6 then increase it ore lower it if need be.
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Old 02-09-2015, 12:01 PM   #9
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Any problems with dropping down the 2.5 inch receiver hitch to 2 inch with an insert and using the standard 2 inch shanks and hitch systems.
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Old 02-09-2015, 12:07 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Garmat View Post
Any problems with dropping down the 2.5 inch receiver hitch to 2 inch with an insert and using the standard 2 inch shanks and hitch systems.
Nope, that's what the reducer is for. You do wind up with a little more slop, due to stacked tolerances, which may require more head tilt to remedy.
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Old 02-09-2015, 01:32 PM   #11
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Quote:
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Nope, that's what the reducer is for. You do wind up with a little more slop, due to stacked tolerances, which may require more head tilt to remedy.
Using the 2" would be done with a lighter trailer than what the 2 1/2" was designed for.

So if you have multiple trailers like I have , and multiple stingers for them then yes you could use the adapter for those. Just don't use it for a trailer that requires a 2 1/2" stinger.
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Old 02-09-2015, 02:04 PM   #12
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I installed an adapter in mine and welded it solid. Got rid of the slop and I don't have anything that would need 2 1/2" stinger. Locking pin was purchased at Lowe's.

Controller setting at 6-8.
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Old 02-09-2015, 09:20 PM   #13
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The hitch store has 2.5" hitch pins. I have only seen 2" hitch pins at my local WalMart. www.thehitchstore.com
I started my 2500hd at 6.0. it was lowered to five later after a tech said my brakes showed signs of the gain being too high. So far it seems to work.
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Old 02-09-2015, 09:30 PM   #14
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I bought a 2 1/2" (Class 5) hitch pin at the WalMart in Roswell, NM. The card it was on specified Class 5.
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