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Jack46 · 02-08-2015, 02:00 PM

I just saw a posting to F250/350 owners regarding a suggested setting for the Ford integrated brake controller. I don't know if they are necessarily the same, but since I just took delivery of a Chevy 2500 HD Duramax, I thought I'd ask the same question since this is my first experience with a built in controller. So what have been your experiences with the built in controller setting?

The hitch receiver on the Silverado is 2 1/2" square versus 2" on our previous Suburban. To date, I have also been unable to locate a 5/8" hitch pin and clip that is long enough for the Silverado. Any suggestions? Thanks. Jack

dznf0g · 02-08-2015, 04:05 PM

They come with the standard pin and clip. Look under and around the back seats...in the glove box, center console. If it isn't there, have your dealer get you one. (free!). Now, if you are looking for a locking pin, just cruise the net. They're pretty common.

scamp · 02-08-2015, 05:41 PM

Regarding the built in brake controler on my 2012 silverado k series 1500 4x4 , I have mine set to setting 8 and it seems to work great on both my old 2012 19 flying cloud and my 2015 16 sport .

Don

Pahaska · 02-09-2015, 06:17 AM

Look for a hitch pin, either locking or plain, that is labelled "Class 5". Class 5 pins fit my Silverado. I have seen them in WalMart and at RV dealers.

Silver Otter · 02-09-2015, 08:23 AM

Jack,
We have the same set up. We set the controller at 7.5 or 8 most times and everything seems smooth. No excessive brake wear on either the truck or trailer. We bought one of those longer double-ended locking hitch pins at Camping World. Has worked fine for three years. Don't we LOVE our 30s?

Wingeezer · 02-09-2015, 08:34 AM

Like Silver Otter, I have ours set around 8 and it seems fine there.

I have had a couple of sporadic weird problems with ours, Suddenly I will get a chime from the dash and a message saying "Check trailer brake system" even though everything seems fine and I still get the "brake effort bar" or whatever you call it, on the dash responding normally and the brakes seem to be working.

I have even had the message pop up when no trailer attached.

I believe the message relates to the system on the truck itself and not the trailer, I think there is another message the controller can show saying "Check trailer brakes." I had the message show up once when I had a broken magnet wire on one wheel.

I have not been able to resolve the "Check trailer brake system" message, but it has only happened maybe three or four times in 6 years. I did pull the umbilical socket on the truck apart and ensured all the contacts were clean and bright - same on the trailer.

I haven't heard of others having the problem, so I guess it is not a chronic thing. Could find much related info with an internet search a year or so back.

Generally the controller seems to work well.

Brian.

PS - when you get a hitch pin, I would look for a straight one with lock on the end.

I started out using one with a bent end and found it was wallowing out the pin hole in the truck hitch - i.e. making it oval.

I read on this forum that the bent pins will do that. I switched to a straight join and the wear seems to have stopped.

mefly2 · 02-09-2015, 09:19 AM

6-8 depending on conditions ... check your AS brakes and TV setting often ... on uphill, down hill, and inclement conditions. For us, the setting varies as we don't want to over control the AS brakes. YMMV

cathyjohn · 02-09-2015, 10:56 AM

If your truck has an e brake start out at 6 then increase it ore lower it if need be.

Garmat · 02-09-2015, 11:01 AM

Any problems with dropping down the 2.5 inch receiver hitch to 2 inch with an insert and using the standard 2 inch shanks and hitch systems.

dznf0g · 02-09-2015, 11:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Garmat

Any problems with dropping down the 2.5 inch receiver hitch to 2 inch with an insert and using the standard 2 inch shanks and hitch systems.

Nope, that's what the reducer is for. You do wind up with a little more slop, due to stacked tolerances, which may require more head tilt to remedy.

Glenritas · 02-09-2015, 12:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dznf0g

Nope, that's what the reducer is for. You do wind up with a little more slop, due to stacked tolerances, which may require more head tilt to remedy.

Using the 2" would be done with a lighter trailer than what the 2 1/2" was designed for.

So if you have multiple trailers like I have , and multiple stingers for them then yes you could use the adapter for those. Just don't use it for a trailer that requires a 2 1/2" stinger.

bwoodtx · 02-09-2015, 01:04 PM

I installed an adapter in mine and welded it solid. Got rid of the slop and I don't have anything that would need 2 1/2" stinger. Locking pin was purchased at Lowe's.

Controller setting at 6-8.

greenflag · 02-09-2015, 08:20 PM

The hitch store has 2.5" hitch pins. I have only seen 2" hitch pins at my local WalMart. www.thehitchstore.com
I started my 2500hd at 6.0. it was lowered to five later after a tech said my brakes showed signs of the gain being too high. So far it seems to work.

Pahaska · 02-09-2015, 08:30 PM

I bought a 2 1/2" (Class 5) hitch pin at the WalMart in Roswell, NM. The card it was on specified Class 5.

Jack46 · 02-10-2015, 04:27 AM

Thanks for all the feedback. Since i use a 2"stinger, I will have to use a 2" adapter. I prefer to not use a locked pin merely due to the inconvenience of removing the stinger regularly. I did visit both Lowe's and Home Depot and neither carried a long enough pin. i finally found - two - at e.Trailer. They should arrive today or tomorrow.

And yes, Otter, we love our 30' way over our experiences with a 28' International. But, that is another post! Thanks, Jack

scamp · 02-10-2015, 04:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by greenflag

The hitch store has 2.5" hitch pins. I have only seen 2" hitch pins at my local WalMart. www.thehitchstore.com
I started my 2500hd at 6.0. it was lowered to five later after a tech said my brakes showed signs of the gain being too high. So far it seems to work.

Like tractor trailers the rear brakes are applied first and with more force ,this is to keep the trailer from jack knife situation, so you want your trailer brakes to apply hard enough to stop the trailer but not to hard as to stop your tow vehicle and cause trailer tires to lock. so how can a tech determing the gain is set too high to wear out your trailer brake shoes ,did he also check the brakes on your truck ? As they could of also had above average wear, the only way to tell if it's set too high is to road tested it and adjust it to properly stop the trailer. As a retired auto tech some people will wear there brakes a lot faster then others with the same vehicle this is because some people drive under different situations , like more city driving or more hilly roads etc this will cause the brakes to wear a lot faster then someone driving on the highway as the highway driver is not applying the brakes every two minutes as the city driver would, also some drivers will wear there brakes out faster as they use there brakes when not needed as one time I went with a customer on a road test on the highway and no traffic and on a straightaway section ,every time the customer looked at me while talking to me they applied the brakes ! For no reason nothing in front! So there brakes wore out a lot faster then most people's brakes so I hope the tech road tested your truck with the trailer before he came to the conclusion that your brake controler was set to high and causing excessive wear to your trailer brakes as most others here have them set around 7-8 , I'm not sure if the controler on your truck is different due to your truck been a 2500 series , but I would have a second opinion to your set up as you don't want that trailer coming around on a hard braking situation on a curve in the road.

Don

Jack46 · 02-10-2015, 06:13 AM

Since this is a thread on Silverado's, another question. Our FC is still winterized, but I had an opportunity to hook up for the first time yesterday. Since our Silverado does not have the navigation system, the truck has the backup camera running through the left side of the rear view mirror. I did not see this necssarily as a challenge until when backing up the rear view of the stinger was totally blacked out due to the way the shadows were falling at the time. I never experienced this with our Suburban's installed Navigation. Fortunately I was still able to back the stinger into the Hensley relatively easily.

But, have any of you experienced something similar and what have you come up with regarding a workaround? I figure I'll need to light up the back somehow when faced with this situation. I did not realize this prior to the truck purchase but the stock GM Navigation system can evidently be installed after the fact. However, it looks like a very expensive option and probably not workable for us.

bwoodtx · 02-10-2015, 06:35 AM

I have experienced this as well. I painted the front of the hitch on the trailer white. It helps. I have the navigation system and even with the bigger screen it is tough to see through the shadows.

A W Warn · 02-10-2015, 08:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jack46

I just saw a posting to F250/350 owners regarding a suggested setting for the Ford integrated brake controller. I don't know if they are necessarily the same, but since I just took delivery of a Chevy 2500 HD Duramax, I thought I'd ask the same question since this is my first experience with a built in controller. So what have been your experiences with the built in controller setting?

The hitch receiver on the Silverado is 2 1/2" square versus 2" on our previous Suburban. To date, I have also been unable to locate a 5/8" hitch pin and clip that is long enough for the Silverado. Any suggestions? Thanks. Jack

When I bought a new 2500 Silverado it came with a 2 1/2" to 2" adapter and a hitch pin. Your dealer should take care of providing that.

I set the Trailer Gain to 5. Brakes function well and do not jerk the tow vehicle. YMMV.

A W Warn · 02-10-2015, 08:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jack46

......I did not see this necssarily as a challenge until when backing up the rear view of the stinger was totally blacked out due to the way the shadows were falling at the time. ................... But, have any of you experienced something similar and what have you come up with regarding a workaround?...........

I have used light/bright colored tape and chalk to make a mark on top of the coupler and hitch ball, which makes it more visible when it is in a shadow.