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overlander63 · 12-06-2006, 04:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Safari Tim

I just installed a Lifeline AGM from Randy, in my curbside closet.

I put the battery in a standard plastic battery box and intend to make a false floor type of cover over that to hide the battery and my black tank that extends in the closet.

My question is this. I intend to install an inverter. The inverter instructs not to mount it in an area that could have explosive gases like that from a battery. Turns out the best location is to mount the inverter in that same closet as the battery.

Since it's an AGM, and it will be in a box, and under a false floor, could I still mount the inverter in the closet?

Tim, the explosive gasses that are produced are Hydrogen (H), which are significantly lighter than air. If you had to mount the converter in the same closet, it should be below battery level for this reason. You will need to have vents near the top of the closet for the gasses to escape. Remember the Hindenberg. AGM does not produce a lot of Hydrogen, although some outgassing is to be expected.

68 Overlander · 12-06-2006, 10:24 PM

JB,
Thanks for the nice words. The diagram you downloaded should answer most of your questions. Use the same rated ATC blade fuse on the new panel for each you removed from the old Univolt panel. Those were probably glass style.
Silvertwinkie,
your right, larger converters use a 20 Amp AC plug instead of a 15 Amp even though they do not draw more than 15 Amps. The reason is because of OEM and their silly wiring requirements. Some use 20 amp plugs so manufactures cater to that. The only one that comes close to needing it is the 80 amp. Just change the receptacle to a 20 amp plug and you can enjoy the extra power, though rarely needed on an Airstream trailer.
Tim,
You have me ethically challenged here. By code, all batteries need to be vented to the outside. Lifelines are sealed and don't vent or gas per se unless they are overcharged but the codes still say so. There is a valve that will open if the internal pressure exceeds 2.0 PSI and that normally only happens during a overcharge condition. You can make that call but if you have a barrier...well, never mind that thought, you need to make it right.

Safari Tim · 12-07-2006, 12:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 68 Overlander

Tim,
You have me ethically challenged here. By code, all batteries need to be vented to the outside. Lifelines are sealed and don't vent or gas per se unless they are overcharged but the codes still say so. There is a valve that will open if the internal pressure exceeds 2.0 PSI and that normally only happens during a overcharge condition. You can make that call but if you have a barrier...well, never mind that thought, you need to make it right.

Ya, I hear you guys.

It's one of those things where I already knew the right thing to do but was hoping for a free pass

It's such a convienent spot for the inverter. But I'll find another place.

Just for arguement. What about the 12v auto reset breaker that is called for within 18 inches of the battery? Can't they spark?

overlander63 · 12-07-2006, 04:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Safari Tim

Just for arguement. What about the 12v auto reset breaker that is called for within 18 inches of the battery? Can't they spark?

Yes. My auto reset breaker is outside the battery compartment, inside the trailer, and well within the 18" recommended distance of the battery.

sierrajb · 12-07-2006, 06:57 PM

Randy,
I know you said use the same size fuses on the new fuse panel as was installed on the old Univolt, but the panel I bought from you (9 stations)clearly says "Max Fuse Size 20A". My old Univolt has a blue wire to a 30 amp fuse.

Are you saying I can put a 30 amp fuse on this new fuse block, even though the fuse block tells me not to use a fuse larger than a 20 amp? No fears?

For your viewing pleasure, check out the pics of the old Univolt and the new fuse block.

Safari Tim · 12-07-2006, 07:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sierrajb

Randy,
I know you said use the same size fuses on the new fuse panel as was installed on the old Univolt, but the panel I bought from you (9 stations)clearly says "Max Fuse Size 20A". My old Univolt has a blue wire to a 30 amp fuse.

Are you saying I can put a 30 amp fuse on this new fuse block, even though the fuse block tells me not to use a fuse larger than a 20 amp? No fears?

For your viewing pleasure, check out the pics of the old Univolt and the new fuse block.

If you have the room, use two positions tied together and put two 15 amp fuses in them.

Or use an external inline fuse holder for a 30 amp fuse.

sierrajb · 12-07-2006, 07:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Safari Tim

If you have the room, use two positions tied together and put two 15 amp fuses in them.

Or use an external inline fuse holder for a 30 amp fuse.

Never thought of those options, Tom. I understand the concept of an external inline fuse, but not sure how to tie two positions together. Do you mean "split" the 30 amp wire into two pieces? Can you elaborate? I'm electrically challenged...

Safari Tim · 12-07-2006, 08:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sierrajb

Never thought of those options, Tom. I understand the concept of an external inline fuse, but not sure how to tie two positions together. Do you mean "split" the 30 amp wire into two pieces? Can you elaborate? I'm electrically challenged...

I understand those connections can only use up to a #12 wire. So yo can put a couple of inches of #12 wire into two of the fuse outlets and run them into a butt splice together on one siide. On the other side of the splice you would use #10 or so out to your 30 amp load. Then in the two fuse positions you would put 15 amp fuses.

sierrajb · 12-07-2006, 08:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Safari Tim

I understand those connections can only use up to a #12 wire. So yo can put a couple of inches of #12 wire into two of the fuse outlets and run them into a butt splice together on one siide. On the other side of the splice you would use #10 or so out to your 30 amp load. Then in the two fuse positions you would put 15 amp fuses.

I see, said the blind man! The hook-up makes sense now.
And that won't compromise the circuit in any way at all?

68 Overlander · 12-08-2006, 10:46 AM

JB,
There is an extra DC input across the top of the fuse board. Total of three. One for converter output, one for battery input and an extra. Use an inline fuse and connect it there.

sierrajb · 12-08-2006, 05:07 PM

Thanks, Randy! I'll post pics of the finished hookup in a day or so.

sierrajb · 12-09-2006, 04:21 PM

Finally, finished the installation of my new WFCO 9845, thanks to the help of all of you, especially Randy at bestconverters.com. Here's a few snap shots of the completed installation. Why the blue wire harness? It beats all those ugly wires scattered everywhere!

After the installation, I plugged it in to test the output. Guess what? 13.6v. YES!

68 Overlander · 12-11-2006, 05:43 PM

Nice looking installation JB. Good job and thanks for taking the time to post the photos.

sierrajb · 12-12-2006, 10:25 AM

Randy & Anyone Else...

Is a #10 wire big enough to use for the leads to the battery? The instructions said to go with at least a #8, but I could not find any close by. If it MUST be #8, I can change it out very easily, but I'm concerned about the #8 fitting in my fusebox holder. What's your opinion?

68 Overlander · 12-12-2006, 11:00 AM

JB,
10 Ga is really too small but would probably work on the 45 Amp model with a VERY short run. No way with the 55 Amp model.
I would change it out for 8 ga. and it will fit in the fuse box, actually the positive lugs will hold up to 2 ga.
The reason is twofold. First, the rating if the wire needs to be able to handle the full current output for safety reasons. Granted you will rarely see 45 Amps for any long duration but it still needs to be able to handle it.
Second, there is substantial voltage drop on longer runs to the battery.
The converter needs accurate voltage to determine which mode to be in. It uses both voltage and current sensing to determine its algorithm.
With all of our "smart" chargers, the two reasons for strange behavior is a weak or shorted cell in the battery or under rated wiring.

sierrajb · 12-13-2006, 01:09 PM

Sounds reasonable, Randy. Consider it changed to 8 gauge!

TomW · 09-09-2012, 11:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TomW

...So far so good ...

I think it was two years ago, but at some point I thought the out-of-warranty WFCO converter I bought because of this thread was crapping out on me. After talking it over with Randy, I decided to replace the unit with his current recommendation of IOTA.

Well, the problem ended up being a loose wire on the battery. Oops. But I carried the new converter along with us as a hot spare since it didn't weigh much.

A few trips ago, I took the square drive screwdriver out of the Airstream toolbox because it was needed for something else, and I couldn't for the life of me remember why it had been added to the toolbox in the first place.

On the last camping trip, we ended up making camp late, and had to eat after the sun went down. Even with four bulbs burning over the kitchen table, the place was dim; I thought someone had replaced my incandescents with LEDs.

The problem ended up being the WFCO converter. Although its fan was running, it was only putting out 5.2 volts. Remembering the IOTA hot spare, it was retrieved only to find its electrical connection screws had been the reason the square-head driver had been toted around.

We survived by dining by the light of the television.

Once home, an autopsy was performed in the dim hope that there was a simple fix to the problem.

In spite of how much I used to enjoy hobbying in electronics, today's stuff is way past me. After removing the fan, power cord, and a big electrolytic, the rest was scrapped.

So far so good on the new IOTA!

Tom