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08-11-2008, 10:22 AM
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#1
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4 Rivet Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 368
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Stuck Water Fill Cap - 1967 GT
I recently acquired a '67 Globetrotter that I just couldn't pass up. As I am debugging all of the systems in the trailer I have come across one hurdle that I have yet to overcome - a frozen (stuck) cap on the water tank filler neck. Does anyone out there have a magic cure? I have tried soaking it in WD40 without success. Any inputs are greatly appreciated.
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08-11-2008, 10:55 AM
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#2
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3 Rivet Member
1966 22' Safari
Chico
, California
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 178
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Toddster;
I had the same problem with the fill on my 1966 Safari. I removed it from the trailer and placed it upside down in my bench vise. I then poured penetrating oil into the fill pipe till it was past the threads. Then GENTLY heat the cap with a propane torch. The cap will expand faster than the pipe and you will see some vapor coming out from between the cap and the threads. You should then be able to remove the cap with a pipe wrench. You may need to file off any tooth marks on the cap. The main thing to remember is to use as little heat as possible and keep it well spread around. After getting them apart you will find white junk. Remove with a wire brush and wrap pipe threads with teflon tape.
(NUTZ)
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08-11-2008, 11:31 AM
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#3
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4 Rivet Member
2019 28' International
Leonardtown
, Maryland
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 262
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Heat is good, but try some candle wax instead of oil. It will wick into the threads and you can turn it by hand. Do not over heat the cap, soft metal will melt, share the heat with the threaded pipe as well.
__________________
_________________
Rebee - WBCCI #1325
2002 Classic Ltd 30'
2007 Dodge 2500, 6.7 Cummins
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08-11-2008, 11:40 AM
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#4
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2 Rivet Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 49
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Had the same problem fortunately was able to remove cap will still on the trailer with a pipe wrench. Marked the cap a bit but if your careful you can keep the marks to a minimum. I like the idea of removing the assembly and using penetrating oil or wax. I cleaned up the threads on mine and keep a light coating of food grade silicone grease on the threads. Minimizes oxidation and doesn't affect the taste of the water. Good luck.
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08-11-2008, 03:09 PM
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#5
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Rivet Master
1966 24' Tradewind
Placerville
, California
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,328
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DFK
Had the same problem fortunately was able to remove cap will still on the trailer with a pipe wrench. Marked the cap a bit but if your careful you can keep the marks to a minimum. I like the idea of removing the assembly and using penetrating oil or wax. I cleaned up the threads on mine and keep a light coating of food grade silicone grease on the threads. Minimizes oxidation and doesn't affect the taste of the water. Good luck.
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Mine was cross threaded onto the neck. It took some patience to work it off with a pipe wrench. I bought a male steel pipe coupler the size of the cap. Ten cut with a hacksaw notches down the threads to create a cutting dye. With the 'dye' in a vise I trued up the threads in the cap. The cap is aluminum so the crossed threads trued up perfectly. Also I buffed out the nicks from the pipe wrench then polished the cap beautifully. I have two water fill necks for the two tanks that I have. But so far I have not found matching caps. Any help there would be appreciated.
Neil.
__________________
Neil and Lynn Holman
FreshAir #12407
Avatar;
Kirk Creek, Big Sur, Ca. coast.
1966 Trade Wind
1971 Buick Centurion convertible
455 cid
1969 Oldsmobile Ninety Eight
455 cid
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08-11-2008, 04:00 PM
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#6
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Retired.
Currently Looking...
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, At Large
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 21,276
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In a pinch, you can get a galvanized steel cap, paint it silver, and have a passable repair until something "better" comes along. Silver painted galvanized is better than an open hole that God knows what can get into.
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Meddle not in the affairs of dragons, for you are crunchy, and taste good with ketchup.
Terry
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07-04-2009, 05:48 AM
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#7
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Rivet Master
1959 26' Overlander
Western
, Massachusetts
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,468
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Another thought
I tried wax and penetrating oil, with heat. Mine (1965) was so frozen that neither would work alone. I had removed the fill pipe and cap from the trailer and had 2 14" wrenches on it!
Finally, I filled a plastic tub from the deli with water and put the neck in that. I heated the cap with a torch until it started to discolor -- black, not cherry red.
That worked.
By keeping the neck cool, it didn't expand as much. By heating the cap, it did. That finally did the trick. I also sprayed penetrating oil on it heavily before the final heat.
John
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07-04-2009, 09:09 AM
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#8
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Rivet Master
Currently Looking...
1989 34.5' Airstream 345
Cleveland
, Tennessee
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 787
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You can protect the cap from wrench marks by wrapping it with 2-3 layers of a cloth rag. This is how I protect a chrome shower pipe when doing bathroom remodeling.
Ricky
__________________
"Sometimes I wonder if the world is being run by smart people who are putting us on, or by imbeciles who really mean it." Mark Twain
AIR 22749 WBCCI 2349 NOVA TAC TN-6
1989 345 LE Classic Motorhome
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07-04-2009, 10:23 AM
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#9
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Rivet Master
1963 22' Safari
2020 27' Globetrotter
State of
, Washington
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 2,512
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Also check your hardware store, try a strap wrench, often used on plumbing fixtures, basically an handle with a 1/4 circle, some teeth and a nylon strap that grips pipes etc really tight, broke ours loose on the 66 with one of these and won't damage the cap.
__________________
Scott & Megan
VAC LIBRARIAN WBCCI 8671
1963 Safari from the 1963-64 Around the World Caravan
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07-04-2009, 10:30 AM
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#10
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Rivet Master
Airstream Dealer
Corona
, California
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 16,497
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fill cap.
Regular pipe fittings do not have the correct threading to be properly used.
New machined aluminum caps are available, that are better looking than the original caps.
A yearly small coating of vaseline, on the filler neck threads, stops the seizing problem.
Andy
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07-04-2009, 11:14 AM
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#11
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2 Rivet Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 24
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A problem that's tougher to cure is LOSS, when you get the cap off finally, drill a small hole through the side and thread a stainless wire, put a loop in the wire and HANG the cap on the neck, when you are putting in the water. Don't ask how I learned this.
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11-22-2009, 07:50 PM
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#12
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4 Rivet Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 368
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I FINALLY GOT THE CAP TO BREAK FREE!!!!
It took putting the assembly into a heavy duty vice, attaching a 12" pipe wrench to the cap and hitting the wrench with a 5lb sledge hammer. I think that the hard impacts were key to breaking it loose. It did leave some marks on the cap, but a little file work and a visit to my aluminum oxide blast cabinet smoothed them out. The remaining marks add "character" that reminds me to keep the threads lubricated. I've got to say that it feels so good to keep attacking all of these little things. It only gets better
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07-01-2014, 10:12 AM
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#13
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New Member
1967 20' Globetrotter
Holladay
, Utah
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 0
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anyone tried this?
I have thought about grinding a couple of flat edges on the outside of the cap so a large wrench could.
I care large adjustable pliers in my trailer:
http://www.amazon.com/Channellock-48.../dp/B00004SBCX
I use these with a rag wrapped around it.
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