The 23FB forum

[Steamy1]

Originally Posted by PKI

Thank you very much. Not happy with the answer, but it's what I suspected.

Pat

I have the same situation as you; we have the #10 Dexter 3,000#axles with 10" brakes and 5-lugs. Airstream upgraded to larger axles (I think #11, 3,500#) with 6-lugs.

I would like to install disc brakes, but will probably consider putting on new axles for this upgrade, which also means new tires and rims. However, I would also like to upgrade from 15" to 16" wheels. I just have not heard if anyone has done this.

[PKI]

Originally Posted by Steamy1

-- snip -- like to upgrade from 15" to 16" wheels. I just have not heard if anyone has done this.

Steamy - 16s will not fit in the wheel well. The 15s are tight. Note, GYEs are 225s and Michelins are 235s, so you should measure to verify.

However, I would not go there. The 15s have sufficient load capacity and a wider tire = more contact patch = better stopping power. What is missing is anti-lock and that brings us back to disks. Pat

[earthdog]

Originally Posted by GettinAway

I have a 2011, and the same two valves in the compartment below the pantry. Mine open and close without much effort. I always drain them when winterizing, along with the two that are beneath the fresh water tank. Don’t forget the bypass for the hot water tank. I have the line added in by the pump. It draws the antifreeze right out of the jugs. Really makes it pretty easy. I blow the lines out first. It seems like belt and suspenders, but it’s peace of mind for me.

Ok. Got the valves to open. They were very tight - 2018 model and never been opened before. Once I got them open they open and close more easily now. Blew out the lines with 40# air.

Dealer installed winterizing kit prior to initial pickup in March. Kit is installed between strainer and pump. Pump worked well this season. Pump will not suck antifreeze out of jug. Yes, I did turn the valve to pump from the jug Any ideas?

[Biker]

Originally Posted by earthdog

Ok. Got the valves to open. They were very tight - 2018 model and never been opened before. Once I got them open they open and close more easily now. Blew out the lines with 40# air.

Dealer installed winterizing kit prior to initial pickup in March. Kit is installed between strainer and pump. Pump worked well this season. Pump will not suck antifreeze out of jug. Yes, I did turn the valve to pump from the jug Any ideas?

Did you close the valve from the fresh water tank? Pump could be sucking air from tank and not allowing suction to antifreeze jug.

[GettinAway]

Mine works like a charm. I think it may have three positions though. There is a middle direction that does nothing. Turn the valve to the direction of the added tubing. I’m guessing you are already doing that. Mine will pump the jugs dry, even getting air in the system, then I go to the next jug, it pulls the air through to get the antifreeze out of the next jug. I’m sorry, I don’t know why it wouldn’t pull. Kink in the line?

[MollyTravels]

Interested in this idea as well. Have not figured out how / where to access your photo … new to these forums.

[MollyTravels]

Our 2019 23 FB has 6 lug wheels.

[MollyTravels]

Originally Posted by PKI

All you 23 owners with 2017 and newer units. Are the wheels 5 or 6 lug?

Considering an upgrade on the brakes and looking for a path forward. Disk brake kits exist, but it should be easier to install 12" drum assemblies to replace the 10" units on our 2015. A half loaf solution, but would fit or current needs. Unfortunately, I'm not finding the solution I thought would exist.

Your help is appreciated if you have any information. Pat

2019 has 6 lug wheels

[switz]

Our 2015 23D International Serenity came with 14” wheels with five lugs per wheel. We elected to stay with the 10” brakes so acquired SenDel 15” wheels with the five bolt pattern and put 15” Michelin tires on it. The following year the factory switched to 12” brakes with six lugs and 15” tires.

We had to do metal smithing to get the curb side wheel wellleading edge to match the street side so the 15” tires would fit. The ⅜” gap between the edge of the tire and the closet part of the front of the wheel well precludes any consideration of 16” tires. Our 15” Michelins are not even stressed with the loads in our situation.

So both “23” models are now 15” tires standard.

[Fair_Enough]

I posted this to the 23D / CB thread, but open to comments, suggestions, corrections from all the friends here,
Thanks
Clint
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f142...ml#post2174217

[PKI]

Wolf, you might have had the issue with the 250, but not felt it. Bigger tow vehicles dampen out tow feel. The better your rig steers the more tow feel you get. Gives you a chance to tune the instability out of the lashup.

We have had issues with Michelin Latitude tires tramlining pavement. No problem after about 5000 miles of wear.

We get some wiggle as the wind force increases. Assumption is that hitch sway control force requires a bit of movement from side to side before the resistance corrects the sway. That may be what you are feeling.

We always get some self steering when the road has "ruts" or directional roughness. In New Hampshire and Maine, the frost heave damage made it almost impossible to drive back roads very fast. Often reduced speed to 30 or less.

Alignment is a required starting point. Validation that tires are balanced, round and properly inflated would be required as well. Michelin tires are formulated to keep the rubber soft longer, so more grip for more miles. All new tires come with more grip initially and that can move them around a bit. A stretch, but .... the new tow vehicle may not have the same side wall stiffness and may be following road variations more than you are used to feeling.

Now the elephant - structural stiffness of new hitch receiver and lift blocks. Worth checking.

You seem to be quite meticulous so all or most of this may have crossed your mind and been addressed prior. My apology for trying to reinvent your wheels. Good luck on the tune. Pat

[Fair_Enough]

Originally Posted by PKI

Wolf, you might have had the issue with the 250, but not felt it. Bigger tow vehicles dampen out tow feel. The better your rig steers the more tow feel you get. Gives you a chance to tune the instability out of the lashup.

We have had issues with Michelin Latitude tires tramlining pavement. No problem after about 5000 miles of wear.

We get some wiggle as the wind force increases. Assumption is that hitch sway control force requires a bit of movement from side to side before the resistance corrects the sway. That may be what you are feeling.

We always get some self steering when the road has "ruts" or directional roughness. In New Hampshire and Maine, the frost heave damage made it almost impossible to drive back roads very fast. Often reduced speed to 30 or less.

Alignment is a required starting point. Validation that tires are balanced, round and properly inflated would be required as well. Michelin tires are formulated to keep the rubber soft longer, so more grip for more miles. All new tires come with more grip initially and that can move them around a bit. A stretch, but .... the new tow vehicle may not have the same side wall stiffness and may be following road variations more than you are used to feeling.

Now the elephant - structural stiffness of new hitch receiver and lift blocks. Worth checking.

You seem to be quite meticulous so all or most of this may have crossed your mind and been addressed prior. My apology for trying to reinvent your wheels. Good luck on the tune. Pat

Love the play on words, and excellent comments Pat. Thanks. I suspect that the 250 with worn-in LR E's might have masked the issue. I want to weld a nut onto the receiver and add a bolt with jam nut to stop any motion at the receiver / hitch fit. And will check lift alignment as soon as possible. I hate to think about jacking up the trailer and working with these 140 lb/ft torqued bolts again, but it might come to that. I didn't mention it, but I also tried going up from Ford's recommened 35 psi cold to 40 all around. Couldn't feel any improvement.
Thanks again,
Clint

[Fair_Enough]

On the rut following... side to side issue, all I was able to do today was to get measurements. And, what I found is a problem. Front axles differ 3/4" (ball to axle center) and front to rear axles differ 1-3/4"... which is huge. Ideally they should be within 1/8" I think I might try using using Rapid Jacks (or leveling jacks plus boards) to avoid bottle jacks and jack stands... so I can work one axle at a time...and see what I can do. Probably loosen bolts and use ratchet straps to move them forward or aft
Clint

[RFP]

Originally Posted by earthdog

< snip>Pump will not suck antifreeze out of jug. Yes, I did turn the valve to pump from the jug Any ideas?

Did you get it to work?

[mistacolin]

Originally Posted by mistacolin

Like others here, I really disliked the lounge table set up. I’m a pretty big dude and it is just tight and uncomfortable. I really wanted to dinnette setup and wouldn’t mind the wheel well for the table and comfort for 2.



I really like a previous posters mod that Jackson center did. I wanted to see if I can figure it out myself. I’m halfway through but wanted to share progress.



Good news is that the dinette seats are there. You just have to remove the cushions and a piece of support wood for the middle back seat. And voila you have dinette seats.



The table on the other hand is tricky. I didn’t want the big adjustable leg anymore either. I like the skinny one my 19 had that would fold away. I really want to still be able to make and extra bed if I need to for friends or when I get kicked out of the bed.



It looks like the hardware for the 23cb will fit just right. The table will be about the exact width of the distance between the dinnette seats. Which means it won’t rest on the seat when collapsed. So I’ll have to figure out how to make some kind of support for it in the down position, but I think it’s doable.



Damage to be hidden post removal is filling the holes in the floor and the wheel well with some silicon (almond color should fill the floor nice and hide the holes, the wheel well some white will do).



Status is I have everything removed and will be ordering the 23cb dinette hardware from airstream and install in the coming weeks.



Attaching images of progress. Also can confirm the back rest is a good size for a backrest on the bed.

Hey everyone, finished the conversion. Turned out the dinette from the 28 is the same size as the 2013 23fb set up. Ordered the parts out of the part book for the internationals.

Folds down to make a bed and all. Very happy with the conversion and extra table space. The wheel well actually makes a nice foot rest too for kicking back.

[Biker]

Originally Posted by mistacolin

Hey everyone, finished the conversion. Turned out the dinette from the 28 is the same size as the 2013 23fb set up. Ordered the parts out of the part book for the internationals.

Nice! The dinette was something I would have had to do something with if we kept the 23FB. Not very functional IMO.

Did you order the parts direct from Airstream or did you go through a dealer? I may need to order a panel or two when I remove the convection oven from our 25FB and install a gas oven.

[mistacolin]

Originally Posted by Biker

Nice! The dinette was something I would have had to do something with if we kept the 23FB. Not very functional IMO.



Did you order the parts direct from Airstream or did you go through a dealer? I may need to order a panel or two when I remove the convection oven from our 25FB and install a gas oven.

I had to order through dealer. I called Airstream directly but they would do a direct sale. The dealer did ship directly to my house from airstream though, which made it a lot easier.

[Rocket53]

Hey folks i have a question about blowing out the water lines for winterizing. i posted this on a winterizing thread and haven't received an answer. thought i would pose it to the group since i have the 2008 23FB.

Do i just leave this filter in place while blowing out the lines, or do i remove the canister? I don't see a way to remove the whole thing from the system. there's small white wires going to it as well, not sure what those are for either. you can see them running into bracket from the top. Your help is appreciated.

Mike

[Bobbo]

I don't really know what that is. It doesn't look like a standard water filter. It looks a little like a reverse osmosis filter, but is very small unless it then feeds a pressure tank.

However, if it holds water, it needs to be removed/drained.

[mistacolin]

Originally Posted by mistacolin

I had to order through dealer. I called Airstream directly but they would do a direct sale. The dealer did ship directly to my house from airstream though, which made it a lot easier.

Sorry. Typo, airstream wouldn’t do a direct sale.