The 23FB forum

[Steamy1]

Originally Posted by GMFL

Sure, the square tube is mild steel 3” square with 1/4” wall thickness. The length of each block was 10”. Drilled holes to match current bolt pattern. Grade 8 bolts and locking nuts.
I used a piece of tape I applied on the bottom of the axle to establish a alignment measurement to keep everything straight when reinstalling. Measured from freshwater tank to mark on tape.
See photo. This was an easy install that I did with my Dads help in about 3 hours.

Many thanks! I am going to stop by the local welding shop today to ask them about fabricating the blocks. This may be the method that will motivate me to go ahead and tackle the project myself.

[GMFL]

Here you go Wolf

[Fair_Enough]

Originally Posted by GMFL

Here you go Wolf

Thanks G, one difference between the CB and FB, so it seems, is the OTA antenna location. So, this has me thinking. If I went with 2 of the Eclipse 100w and used the pre-wire 10 awg... curb front, street rear wired in parallel keeps voltage drop below 3%. Panels are optimum 17.7 volts and 5.7 amps. Doable.

I am not absolutely sure, but I use the max volts and amps to calculate VD.

I really want 3 panels minimum. I am old school and prefer PWM - Trimetric pair SC-2030 and TM-2030... I know these products. If I Controller under bed front curb side with the BCO solenoid and the monitor at the end of the upper cabinet by the door.
Thanks again,
WW

[pcskier]

Originally Posted by GMFL

Anytime just give me a heads up. So I can make sure I’m in town.

Well I was just kidding but this right here is what makes the 23d thread the best one on the forums (even though this is on the 23FB thread). I might just surprise you some time! I know I could do it myself but my driveway is short (just long enough for trailer, but with a dip that makes jacking up a real pain), and my tool collection is manual (no impact tools, floor jacks, or welding gear.) Sad!

[Steamy1]

Originally Posted by GMFL

I did weld in an piece of steel angle iron to act as a bolt head stop to make install easier but you don’t have to.

Hi GMFL,
I went to the local metal fabrication shop and said they could make the blocks, using the Dexter brackets as templates for the holes. However, they said they could not make the hole on the bottom elongated (side-to-side) as it is on the Dexter, since it is a stamped hole. They would have to drill it but it would not have the ability to adjust side-to-side like the Dexter. How did you handle this on your blocks? Did you just drill a hole and it fit without needing adjustment?

Also, I assume you have to completely remove the gas line then re-install once it is threaded through the blocks?

Thank you for your help!

[Fair_Enough]

Dexter left one of the spacers / blocks out of the package. So, waiting for over a week with wheels off, was a waste, as was breaking bolts loose on one axle. Had to put it all back. Disappointed. But, on the bright side going to a SP in Georgia tomorrow for a few days. I am confused to post here on on 23D, so if anyone only looks here, here are some pics. I tried to make the fridge fan switch photo larger, but gave up.

I think the wheels cleaned up pretty good for being very nearly 6 years old. Happy birthday, Home Remedy!
WW

[Fair_Enough]

Originally Posted by GettinAway

WW,
Maybe it’s because we haven’t spent a really long time in ours, but I like the dinette. We hardly ever convert it, and enjoy sitting, talking, reading at the table. You generally look out into the campsite (the person facing the rear has the best view) while you’re at the table. We don’t watch the TV. Maybe this will change with retirement and longer trips.
Having that wheel well underneath it complicates things as to what you can do.
Who knows though, maybe seeing your finished product, I might get more enthusiastic.
Jeff

Absolutely agree the window is the best. I am about making it fit us, but I also hate to change anything major like this would be. Going off this weekend, so we will see if its a need or a hair-brained idea. How would a hair-brain really know... kind of like insanity. Maybe I can only hope to not be stupid.
WW

[rmkrum]

Sanity is highly over-rated.

I should know, I'm the poster child for "Overkill Engineering"...

[GMFL]

Originally Posted by Steamy1

Hi GMFL,
I went to the local metal fabrication shop and said they could make the blocks, using the Dexter brackets as templates for the holes. However, they said they could not make the hole on the bottom elongated (side-to-side) as it is on the Dexter, since it is a stamped hole. They would have to drill it but it would not have the ability to adjust side-to-side like the Dexter. How did you handle this on your blocks? Did you just drill a hole and it fit without needing adjustment?

Also, I assume you have to completely remove the gas line then re-install once it is threaded through the blocks?

Thank you for your help!

I just drilled mine round and made sure my measurement were dead on. Center punched the holes and drills small pilot holes to make sure drill press did not walk.
Yep gas line disconnected and threaded through reconnect and check for leaks.

[GMFL]

Originally Posted by pcskier

Well I was just kidding but this right here is what makes the 23d thread the best one on the forums (even though this is on the 23FB thread). I might just surprise you some time! I know I could do it myself but my driveway is short (just long enough for trailer, but with a dip that makes jacking up a real pain), and my tool collection is manual (no impact tools, floor jacks, or welding gear.) Sad!

I am serious. You bring and we will do it.

[badib-yazdi]

Had local trailer place do the 2 5/8" lift kit on our 23FB Serenity today. All good, but the gas line was not long enough to get some slack to get to to work so ended up replacing the whole run front to back. She looks pretty perky! On to 15" tires and wheels next.

[badib-yazdi]

Hey Dan had this kit installed today. Thanks for the info. I ended up not having to change out the shocks with the stock 22.5 degree axles. But ended up replacing a section of gas line that would not stretch to make up for the 2 5/8" lift.

Originally Posted by VTSmitty

We used Dexter part K71-707-02 (http://www.dexteraxle.com/products/s...orflex/torflex), but you can get it cheaper through etrailer.com. In our case we didn't order the kit, since Colin Hyde had them in stock. Since we had changed our axles to the 32 degree torsion arm version it also required modifying the shock mounts, but for stock axles you should be OK. Those that did this stock will confirm or disagree.

We're really happy with the lift - no difference in towing or ride, but the trailer now sits where it should, and we don't have to fret over every little bump when we're boondocking (or gassing up). She looks perkier, too!

Dan

[badib-yazdi]

2 - The water pump is under the road side wardrobe. Just lift the bottom out.

G - I'm going to have to check out the gel sheets!

i) I just had the lift kit done. All good. https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...71-707-02.html

iv) I built a Renogy kit on 25' cables and a little inverter / cargo box for cables. Added a piano hinge and now I can get 200W and put it anywhere within 25' of my batteries. A bit of a pain to haul around but I have a camper shell on my TV so that gets me some good storage.

v) mine camera with the wireless camera - love being able to see behind me going down the road!

Originally Posted by Wolfwhistle

Questions for the experts... asking for advice and comments welcome... don't hold back.

2013 Signature 23FB front queen, BTW

1) Are the batteries fused?

2) I can hear the water pump but haven't laid eyes on it yet... the manual says its curb side bottom of the wardrobe. I find subwoofer and water heater in there and the WH bypass valve. Is the pump behind a panel near the sink?

3) How do you remove the 'pantry' sliding tray? I would think I would just start removing screws until I obtain revelation

4) I am not impressed with the fantastic fans. The lift motor / mechanism can't overcome a slightly sticky lid seal and no reverse, which I have seen the modification to make them so. I had the deluxe Maxxair before and they are miles and smiles ahead with a remote, reversible, no need for a cover or rain sensors, can be left up for travel, thermostatically controlled, and move more air on less ampere draw.

What I have done:

A) Added TST 507 TPMS

B) Replaced 12v group 24s with GC-2 230AH 6 volt (battery box mod still needed)

C) Clean / flushed / sanitized all tanks

D) Ordered PD 4655VL 55 Amp Converter Upgrade, Optional Remote Pendant 4600 Remote from Best Converter Inc.

E) Ordered solid 304 SS lug nuts

F) Will swap out to the longer Blue Ox shank to better level the trailer as it sits now - received this yesterday

G) Ordered Gel sheets to warm the LED spot lights - from Stage Sports (Marlene 506 and a sampler set of warm colors)

What I planning / considering:

i) Lift kit for #10 axles (I have not verified this is what I have). With brand new stock 14" Endurance tires I don't want to go 15" yet

ii) Adding battery cutoff and catastrophic fuse (breaker) at batteries... and possibly...

iii) ... Adding Zamp plug onto the battery box... and ordering Zamp 200W portable kit. Or...

iv) ... Building my own kit with Renogy equipment. I don't think I can bring myself to drill through or mount anything to the roof as much as I would prefer panels permanently mounted topside.

v) Adding an inverter, probably two. A 300W PSW dedicated to charging ports (to be installed) and possibly the TV, which I already have (a Samlex) for sure and maybe a 1500W to 2000W PSW used rarely for microwave and hair dryer / curling iron for the little lady (remote switch and normally off). Where and how to install - to be determined

vi) Wireless (or wired) backup (rear view) camera. I had wired on the old toyhauler and feel naked without it

So, that's it in my typical long winded fashion. Thanks everyone in advance.

[GettinAway]

Bruce, I sent you a PM about getting your lift kit installed in Springfield.
Also, you had to add an inverter for the portable solar? Mind giving me a bit more detail on how it’s hooked up? Where you set it up when you’re charging?
Thanks
Jeff

[badib-yazdi]

I bought a kit plus a portable inverter from Renogy they have a variety of kits and packages. I decided on a 200W system so I could hinge the two panels and fold them together, along with 25' of cords, charge controller and an inverter. I packaged the inverter and charge controller in a rubbermaid bid so I could coil up the cables and store it all in one tote. Then I can set the panels up anywhere within 25' of the batteries, and I just lay it out on the ground with something to prop it up on an angle. Need to build in some folding adjustable brackets. I tried to attach a photo of the wiring schematic - we'll see if it shows up. If not its in the photos in the link below.

https://www.renogy.com/renogy-200-wa...r-starter-kit/

Originally Posted by GettinAway

Bruce, I sent you a PM about getting your lift kit installed in Springfield.
Also, you had to add an inverter for the portable solar? Mind giving me a bit more detail on how it’s hooked up? Where you set it up when you’re charging?
Thanks
Jeff

[GettinAway]

Thanks. I’m taking along a generator now, but keep thinking this would also be nice to keep the batteries topped off. Just more stuff to haul and maintain though. Still looks pretty simple, and “just one more tote” for the back of the truck..

[Fair_Enough]

Camping for 3 nights, I had some issues on the ole gal and the campground. First the WH wouldn't stay lit.... it would fire up then shut off and light the error lamp. I looked it over; tried again a few times and finally it lit and would light after that. I want to get the regulator tested.

I also had an interesting issue with high voltage, which the Progressive EMS protected her. Opened at 129 vac, making me glad for the EMS. It wasn't a surge, but steady 126 vac plus, for hours.

The day before the CG 30 amp breaker tripped with three things running - A/C: fridge, WH, (converter too, but it was loafing, switch off converter still ocurred). These don't add up to 30 amps, as tested. When it popped, the a/c had been running steady for several minutes. Must have been when the WH came on?? So, not sure but think the CG breaker needs replaced. But, then a neighbor came over and asked if we were having electric problems too (????).

SNAFU on the Dexter lift from eTrailer. I've never had eTrailer require a second phone call, but one of the kits was missing the spacer / block. I had ordered two K71-707-01 kits... Dexter should send it to me, but when? No word as of now.

It towed, literally like it was not there. At least, I forgot it was after awhile. The F-250 that might get high 14 MPG by itself on level(ish) road averaged 11.2 for the 250 mile to and from. Oh, the AS brakes worked so much better than the toyhauler's ever did.

Fridge worked flawlessly with the new 200mm pair turning the whole day. We saw temps around 90 and we were in direct sun... the shiny stuff was well over 100 degrees.

Need, Mattress Topper or new mattress. And a better way to keep the front curtains closed. I've seen a mod adding plastic rods vertically.
WW over and out

[GMFL]

Wolf,
Glad the trip went well, and glad you were able to relax and pittle at the same time.
My EMS has never cutoff due to high voltage but it has for low voltage. They are a nice addition for sure
Glad the fans worked for the fridge.
I’ve had the same ghost in my water heater, not sure why but it has done it a few times in the past
Hope the Lift comes soon!

Safe travels,
Ronnie

[sandshark]

Greetings to the forum. I am a new airstream owner I recently purchased a 2017 23 FB and I am concerned about my Toe vehicle. I have a 2011 Toyota Tacoma four door four-wheel-drive pickup truck with toe package. Can anyone tell me if they know of anyone that is using a similar toe vehicle? Mostly I travel on the East Coast and for the most part on fairly level ground. All that I have read here on the forum leads me to believe that most people are using full-size pickup trucks with larger engine. I would greatly appreciate any feedback that may be out there concerning my worries.

[rmkrum]

Sandshark,

For a data point, I tow a 2007 22' International CCD with a ProPride hitch (1000 pound bars) and a 2012 Toyota Tacoma 4 WD short bed crew cab pickup. It's a touch underpowered, but once I get through mountains it does fine.

I have NO problems both towing and stopping with an add-on Tekonsa Prodigy P2 controller. It does require a bit of patience on long climbs, but I have lots of time...we typically travel with 2-3 adults, and 4-5 dogs at about 15 pounds each. Tend to carry a lot of luggage.

Travel with about 15 gallons in the fresh tank, empty Gray and Black when in mountains, full propane, and 2 GC-2 6 volt batteries in the battery box on the tongue. I carry a 3400 watt Champion Dual fuel (propane only) inverter generator and all the 'trailer tools' in the truck, sometimes with a couple full 20-pound capacity propane bottles in the winter.

Some day DW will let me buy a Tundra--for now, this works well for us.