The 23D thread

[RFP]

Originally Posted by WaLee

New Problem seeking a solution. The corner bathroom door has the lever hardware. How about a solution for a door handle that doesn’t grab you coming out of the bathroom. One idea is to buy a deadbolt set and use the interior portion for the lock. Any suggestions

Can you post a photo of what you have?

[pcskier]

Originally Posted by GMFL

Here is the seal number (Lou) Switz had. #442251

Thanks Ronnie. I'm probably being WAAAAAYYYY too anal about this. The 473336 and 442251 seals are virtually the same...note the minor difference in shaft size (1/1000 of an inch!). And one is a style '440' and one is style '470', whatever that means. I guess either would work but I'm still curious why there are two that are virtually the same?


We appreciate you taking your time to contact us for this matter. As we have checked, the differences between Timken® 473336 - Premium Seal and Timken® 442251 - Premium Seal is the Shaft size and the style. The Timken® 473336 - Premium Seal has Shaft Size: 1.719" and Style: 470 while Timken® 442251 - Premium Seal has Shaft Size: 1.718" and Style: 440.

[Rich W]

Originally Posted by WaLee

New Problem seeking a solution. The corner bathroom door has the lever hardware. How about a solution for a door handle that doesn’t grab you coming out of the bathroom. One idea is to buy a deadbolt set and use the interior portion for the lock. Any suggestions

Getting caught by the belt loop? Happens to me all the time.

[Rich W]

We are currently on our longest journey ever in Dora after being off the road for a couple of years. We left Lexington, KY last Thursday and are currently in southwest Idaho, heading to near Portland, OR. That's 2,425 miles one way. Got new tires for the AS and the 4Runner before leaving. Nothing major so far (stink bugs in the water heater air vent causing soot on the side). Fingers crossed, we arrive late tomorrow in Wilsonville, OR, ready to start the visit.

We're contemplating a different route on the return trip, just for something different. It's maybe 100-200 miles different if we take one of the two northern routes.

[GMFL]

Finally got around to adding my switch position indicator LED’s to my water heater switches. I’ll do a bigger write up in a blog post but here’s a few photos of the dirty work.

[GMFL]

While I was installing the LED light for my water heater switches I found a 10amp fuse in the wall. Any idea what it is for. I did not spend the time investigating.

[eagletoo]

Killer LEDs. Great upgrade. Should be stock. Time to update my mod list - again

[pcskier]

Originally Posted by GMFL

While I was installing the LED light for my water heater switches I found a 10amp fuse in the wall. Any idea what it is for. I did not spend the time investigating.

The 2014 Manual shows a 10A fuse between optional solar panels and the charge controller, but on yellow wire. Since the prewires start out next to the Fantastic Fan sort of above that area, maybe that's where they put that fuse? I don't recall seeing a fuse in the rat's nest, just the terminated prewires.

Remove fuse and see if you lose solar since you are using the prewire?

Only other 10a I can see in the diagram is between charge controller and a 20a breaker on positive bus, but that wouldn't be all the way in back up in that wall since the charge controller would be under the dinette.

Curious to know if you figure it out...that would be an interesting thing to know in the event of some mystery power outage here or there (if it's not for the solar but for something else.)

[GMFL]

Here’s one more I did this morning. My International name badge was starting to show a little fading. The blue was fine but the red was looking more pink than red. A little rattle can red and good as new...
See photos below.

[GMFL]

Originally Posted by pcskier

The 2014 Manual shows a 10A fuse between optional solar panels and the charge controller, but on yellow wire. Since the prewires start out in that vent near there, maybe that's where they put that fuse? I don't recall seeing a fuse in the rat's nest, just the terminated prewires.

Remove fuse and see if you lose solar since you are using the prewire?

Only other 10a I can see in the diagram is between charge controller and pos bus but that wouldn't be all the way in back up in that wall.

Curious to know if you figure it out...that would be an interesting thing to know in the event of some mystery power outage here or there (if it's not for the solar but for something else.)

It’s in the wall behind the thermostat. I’ll do some more digging. I hate the fact there is a fuse that is hidden inside the wall.

[rmkrum]

So basically clean it a bit, mask off a bunch of the area to stop overspray, then just spray it.

What brand of paint and color was it?

I’m having the same fade issues on mine as well. The sun out here in the CA desert is tougher than hell on paint.

[GMFL]

Originally Posted by rmkrum

So basically clean it a bit, mask off a bunch of the area to stop overspray, then just spray it.

What brand of paint and color was it?

I’m having the same fade issues on mine as well. The sun out here in the CA desert is tougher than hell on paint.

That’s what I did...
Rust-Oleum. Red Apple

[pcskier]

Originally Posted by GMFL

It’s in the wall behind the thermostat. I’ll do some more digging. I hate the fact there is a fuse that is hidden inside the wall.

I was just wondering if the solar wires go from next to the Fantastic Fan, over to the wall, and down from there? Can't see any other 10a ones on the basic schematic in the manual.

Whatever it's for, it could drive someone insane if it blew and nobody knew it was back there.

[GMFL]

Originally Posted by pcskier

it could drive someone insane if it blew and nobody knew it was back there.

BINGO! Driving me insane and it’s not blown. Hidden Fuses are not nice.

[GMFL]

Here is the blog post on the Waterheater switch LED MOD.
Clear as MUD
http://www.airforums.com/forums/blog...or-led-s-3054/

[rmkrum]

Makes perfect sense** to this Overkill Engineering expert.

Basically is purchase and install a 12 volt LED (color of your choice) and wire it to the output of the switch. Other end of LED goes to a ground. Polarity matters, of course.

**yeah, assuming you have a degree in electronics and are a Ham Radio operator as well....

[GMFL]

Originally Posted by rmkrum

Makes perfect sense** to this Overkill Engineering expert.

Basically is purchase and install a 12 volt LED (color of your choice) and wire it to the output of the switch. Other end of LED goes to a ground. Polarity matters, of course.

**yeah, assuming you have a degree in electronics and are a Ham Radio operator as well....

Yep that’s about it. Not hard, but it was tedious dealing with that little LED for sure. Fat Fingers and small parts.

[rmkrum]

Add in tired old eyes and you have my reality. If I can’t get something into the right part of the progressive lenses in my glasses it can get really weird when I try to get a big magnifying light into the place I’m having trouble crawling into....

[GMFL]

Originally Posted by GMFL

While I was installing the LED light for my water heater switches I found a 10amp fuse in the wall. Any idea what it is for. I did not spend the time investigating.

Well because I can’t put a good mystery down, first thing this morning I went to digging and solved my little “Fuse in the wall” question I found yesterday.
Turns out it’s for the rear ceiling light dimmer switch. I also checked the front dimmer and there is a fuse in the wall there also.

MAKE A MENTAL NOTE!
MAKE A MENTAL NOTE!
MAKE A MENTAL NOTE!

Sorry I heard that if you say something three times you have a better chance of remembering. So I thought for good measure I would type it

Note: If you pull this fuse the lights will not come on! So that means if this FUSE is BLOWN GUESS WHAT? The lights will not work.
Please be aware that there is a fuse in the wall behind the dimmer switch and....... If yo lights be not working....
Check this super secret hidden fuse.

In Airstreams defense I do not see any other way they could have laid this out. Fuse had to be close to the switch. Maybe they could have used one of those auto reset busses instead of a standard “blow and throw fuse”, but to be honest I’m not sure how reliable those really are.
As always check out the photos.
Thanks for watching.....

[eagletoo]

Ronnie, your perseverance and deductive reasoning is commendable.
Thank you for sharing your gifts.